First time gluing - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
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post #1 of 6 Old 12-03-2019, 01:54 AM Thread Starter
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First time gluing

Hi everyone sorry for the dumb/newbie qestion but I couldnt really find a answer anywhere I have a bunch of laminated shelving just sitting around and wanted to make a makeup vainty for my wife this Christmas from it but im not sure what type of glue to use I dont think wood glue would work I use gorilla glue around the house and dont think its strong enough to put this together I have a brad nailer but I dont think just the nails are strong enough for it

Also side qestion is there a way to get around spending almost 100 on clamps ??????? Just to glue it
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post #2 of 6 Old 12-03-2019, 05:46 AM
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Few points to hit;

- If youre gluing wood to wood, you wont get any stronger than wood glue. Your standard PVA wood glue has been around for a few centuries because it works, pure and simple. A joint made with wood glue will already fail by breaking the wood itself before the glue

- The previous statement is only true for raw, unfinished wood. Any finish on top of wood will prevent wood glue from adhering. Something like a 2 part epoxy will stick to the finish, but then the strength of the bond is determined by the bond of the finish to the wood, and then the bond of the glue to the finish. Tolerance stacking is bad

- "Laminated shelving" and "vanity" tell us next to nothing about what youre building with and what youre trying to build, to say nothing about what tools you have at your disposal. Making a cabinet with a table saw and a sheet of melamine is a different ballgame to making a shaker table with a circular saw and some vinyl flooring scraps

- Brad nails dont offer much strength, but theyre fantastic for holding stuff in place while glue dries

- Dunno what youre doing that needs $100 on just clamps, you can get a few dozen bar and C clamps of various sizes for that and most projects only need about 8, max

- A surprising amount of glue joints dont need clamps at all. As mentioned, brads or screws can hold things while the glue dries, and if everything fits together well, without gaps or similar, you can get a strong joint just by assembling it and leaving it alone for the glue to dry. Massive amounts of pressure arent always needed

I need cheaper hobby
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post #3 of 6 Old 12-03-2019, 07:55 AM
where's my table saw?
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What he said ^

Laminated shelving is the critical issue here. If it's not raw, unfinished wood, glued to the same, then all bets are OFF. I made an entire kitchen cabinet set from Melamine, a hard coated particle board using rabbets, dados and Liquid Nails for the adhesive, NOT wood glue. After the adhesive dried, the bond was quite strong, but horizontal members were also supported in dados.

I had a table saw with a dado set to make them, but a router and a guide would have worked also. Joinery and the different ways to make them is the woodworker's specialty. End to end or butt joints are the weakest. Well, possibly miters as well. Any time you can make the joint "structural" that is strong without a fastener or glue is good. This would include dados and mortise and tenons.

We would need to know exactly what the laminated shelving is made of and if it has a hard surface already on it that will prevent ordinary wood glue from sticking. That's when you need an adhesive ......

The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)
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post #4 of 6 Old 12-03-2019, 09:27 AM
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PVA wood glue is best for glueing wood together. Titebond is a popular brand. Wood glue is popular because it is stronger than the wood itself, and it is inexpensive. Woodworkers are familiar with it and have used it for a long time.

Your original Gorilla Glue is a brand of polyurethane glue. Polyurethane glue is also very strong and can be used for woodworking. The reason polyurethane glue is less popular than PVA wood glue for woodworking is that it foams and it is stickier and messier to use, plus it costs more.

I keep polyurethane glue around for special needs, but most of the time, I use Titebond III PVA wood glue. It just works.
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post #5 of 6 Old 12-03-2019, 10:08 AM
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First, Christianfl, my father always said the only dumb question is the one not asked. You have come to great website. reading the posts, you have been given some great information. When I bought my house, the previous owner put a couple tool racks with 2x4s and Liquid Nails. I pried them off and now have pits in the concrete blocks where the block came off with the 2x4. I have used Titebond III for a number of projects. Good stuff.

A diamond is how coal reacts under pressure.
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post #6 of 6 Old 12-03-2019, 11:06 AM
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Hard to answer the question without knowing exactly what you've got.

Assuming its the usual shelving material (particle board covered with melamine) you're best bet for joining them together would be to rip the laminate off the edge and glue together with dowels or biscuits.

No, decent clamps are not cheap. The Harbor Freight aluminum bar clamps are fairly useable with some alterations. I slide a piece of hardwood into the channel to decrease flex and file around the slip collar a bit to keep from binding. HF shorter F style clamps are also pretty good.
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