First time biscuit jointing - advice please - Page 2 - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
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post #21 of 26 Old 09-09-2014, 09:58 PM
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sorry to get in so late to this thread -- made a dining room table last fall -- maple -- used biscuits -- thought i was getting structural support -- compounded the issue by not glueing the joints correctly -- table was about 47" x 66" -- two of the long joints spread after 1 month -- table had 3 under cross supports and breadboards at the ends -- maybe a wood drying issue, maybe poor technique in joining -- (getting to the point) -- discovered 4 wing slot bits -- any long joint i now do -- i use the slot bits to tongue and groove -- piece of cake -- joints are perfectly aligned -- and have to be plenty strong with tIII glue up -- richard at routerbitworld.com helped me get started with the technique -- maybe i'll get to the point where i would have the confidence to just flat glue long joints -- but i am not there yet --
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post #22 of 26 Old 09-13-2014, 12:54 AM
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Originally Posted by woodnthings View Post
The jointer removes material off the bottom of the board making it flat and straight.

Then with the flat side down, you use the thicknessesr/planer to remove material off the top of the board and making it a uniform thickness.

They art quite different and are used in the order above.

So why exactly do you have to use both and why in that order? If the jointer takes material off the bottom making it flat and straight, why couldn't you flip the board over and do the same to the other side?

Thanks,
Brad
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post #23 of 26 Old 09-13-2014, 01:22 AM
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So why exactly do you have to use both and why in that order? If the jointer takes material off the bottom making it flat and straight, why couldn't you flip the board over and do the same to the other side?

Thanks,
Brad
A jointer makes a face flat, and there's no reason you couldn't make all 4 faces on a board flat using a jointer. The problem with that is that while the faces may be flat, you won't have a nice square board. Odds are, you'll end up with a triangle.

A thickness planer will also make a face flat, but the difference is in how it does it. A jointer uses an offset set of tables across a blade to shave off the high point on a piece of wood, just like a hand plane. A thickness planer, however, has a blade mounted a set distance above a table, to that whatever is run under it against the table will have a consistent thickness across the board equal to the distance of the blade to the table.

In short, a jointer flattens a face, a planer creates a second face on the board parallel to the first, as well as making the board a consistent thickness.

I'm horrible at explaining things. If you're still confused, The Wood Whisperer has an excellent video explaining the process of milling boards from raw lumber that breaks it down better than I can, I'd recommend checking it out
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post #24 of 26 Old 09-13-2014, 11:21 PM
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Epic, in my opinion you explained it perfectly. I would just add, after getting both faces flat and parallel, going back to the jointer to do an edge will square it to to the board, and give a good glue joint.
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post #25 of 26 Old 09-13-2014, 11:36 PM
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Epic, in my opinion you explained it perfectly. I would just add, after getting both faces flat and parallel, going back to the jointer to do an edge will square it to to the board, and give a good glue joint.
Ive always cut the second face on the jointer to get the square edge before sending it through the planer. I think the ordering for that particular step is more personal preference than one is better than the other though

EDIT: before i forget, thank you for the kind words

Last edited by epicfail48; 09-13-2014 at 11:37 PM. Reason: Forgot to remember to thank
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post #26 of 26 Old 09-19-2014, 02:14 PM
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What we have here is a classic case of two nations separated by a common language.In England the machine that makes the face of a board flat is known as a planer.The machine that reduces a board to a specific thickness is known,not unreasonably,as a thicknesser.The original poster is from London,England and I can understand why he feels confused.

I happen to agree that biscuits probably aren't necessary for the job in question and being beech they are not exactly the material best suited to a marine environment.The adhesive could be epoxy or a polyurethane that is rated for D4 grade bonding,as these are much less expensive and don't have the sensitisation risks that go with epoxy.
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