First Box Joint with my new jig - Page 2 - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
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post #21 of 25 Old 04-22-2012, 01:55 AM
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This problem I had was driving me crazy, then I snapped to the logic, that the two boards must present the slots to each other straight, even if there is a small curve in the boards.
Once I got them together, I could bottom the fingers in the slots with clamps, at times every clamp I have.
Another problem I run into was, wood glue dries to fast, or I am too slow getting the box togeher, square, and all the fingers bottomed- "more then 40 on a corner". Its much easier the wider and fewer slots, but I like the looks of narrow slots.
I found using a slow cure epoxy glue made it much easier to get the work together.
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post #22 of 25 Old 04-23-2012, 11:25 PM Thread Starter
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Box Joint Update

OK ... week end's over ... new sink installed ... back to work on making my box joints.
As you remember the fingers on the sides, which all match up, didn't match the fingers on the end board.
So, my thought was to reverse the jig so I'm still cutting left to right, which I've done.
Re-check the jig for sqare and that the guide pin is tight. I checked the blade set tight and of course I have not altered the blade pack since I started.
I know, you're all waiting for the outcome .... here it is.
The end board if as flat as you could ask for, so cupping is not a problem. The end fingers still grow so they don't fit the sides.
I made the sides longer so I'm going to cut fingers of one side and re-cut them to see of the sides are the culprit.
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post #23 of 25 Old 04-24-2012, 01:22 AM
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OK, try this,

Adjust your dado so as the slots fit tight on your guide pin, not too tight, but so the board slips in with absolutly no play on that pin.
What happened to me was, the pin was fitting a little loose, and I was loading the board slightly against it on every cut.
This causes another accumlative error as I was working the slots to the end of the board.
And, make sure no chips get under the board when indexing the next slot.

Last edited by Benny Blanco; 04-24-2012 at 01:24 AM.
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post #24 of 25 Old 04-24-2012, 04:47 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks all

Thank you to everyone for the comments and advise.
Due to the cost of wood .... and I want to continue work on my boat, I've abandon the box joints for the time being. I'll try again when I have square drawers to make.
From all comments I think I figured out the problem:
Remember: I'm cutting everything on a 15 degree angle which means the drawer sides, cutting from top to bottom are cut left to right. .... the ends need a reverse set up to cut from top to bottom. Potential problem: I may be as small as .002" off on my setup but compounded over 14 fingers thats .028"
That's significant.
So, when I make square drawers I can cut them all with the same setup.

Last edited by Chasing Summer; 04-24-2012 at 04:48 PM. Reason: re-wording
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post #25 of 25 Old 05-07-2012, 12:14 AM Thread Starter
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Second Try's a Charm ....
As you recall I was having trouble cutting pins on angled sides and ends. I cut the sides then turned the jig to cut the ends and the joints didn't fit .... at all.
I've re-built the jig so I can cut both sides and ends on what's actually two jigs attached together so with one set-up nothing moves. Please view my blog to see pictures.
As is said: second try's a charm. The joints worked prefectly the first time ... smooth, not to tight but tight enough.
Thanks for all your suggestion on probable problems and causes.
My next challange will be making one more change. The drawer backs are not only on a 15 degree angle but lays against the boat hull at a 45 degree angle. I'll have to set up a jig with the blade tilted over 45 degrees. The guide pin and spaces will be difficult. Vertically they still have to be approx. 3/8". On the angle they will be much wider.
I've added pictures to my album.
Look for posts on my blog: http:chasingsummer-s42.blogspot.com

Last edited by Chasing Summer; 05-07-2012 at 12:23 AM. Reason: added pictures to my album
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