Finger joint table saw jig? - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
 
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post #1 of 18 Old 10-13-2014, 12:07 AM Thread Starter
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Finger joint table saw jig?

I will be attempting to make a finger joint jig similar to the one in this video. Was just wondering if anyone has done something similar. I want to make it the kerf of my regular blade, as opposed to a dado stack. Any tips would be appreciated. I also was wondering what he used for the bottom/top of this box. Thin plywood I assume? Where does one go to buy that? Sorry, lots of questions. Thanks in advance!

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=...77161500,d.aWw
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post #2 of 18 Old 10-13-2014, 09:48 AM
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When making finger joints that small and long you need to be extremely accurate. But it can be done as shown with lots of trial and error pieces until you get the jig set up absolutely accurate. It looks like he used 1/4" ply for the top and bottom.

And yes, I have done it........
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post #3 of 18 Old 10-13-2014, 10:05 AM
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It appears to be a jig that he built, the more fingers and the wider the board the more precise it has to be, there are many "Box Joint Jig" plans online, read through a few of them to get an idea of what it entails, some are built using the miter gauge others use a table saw sled.

Thin ply is available at most lumber suppliers, many will have small panels 2' X 2' or 2' X 4' which are great for small projects.

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post #4 of 18 Old 10-13-2014, 10:54 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks all. I hope to spend some time building and honing a jig this week. I'll let you know how it works out!
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post #5 of 18 Old 10-14-2014, 07:45 PM Thread Starter
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Well here's my first attempt. Not great. Not even good actually. Jig needs work for sure. Just curious if anyone has any plans for a simple setup. I've seen other jigs with wooden gears and whatnot that seem very involved but dead accurate. Anyway, I'll keep at it.

Finger joint table saw jig?-image-4029808516.jpg

Why buy it for $7 when you can make it yourself for $92 in craft supplies
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post #6 of 18 Old 10-15-2014, 12:14 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ddiamondd View Post
Well here's my first attempt. Not great. Not even good actually. Jig needs work for sure. Just curious if anyone has any plans for a simple setup. I've seen other jigs with wooden gears and whatnot that seem very involved but dead accurate. Anyway, I'll keep at it.

Attachment 100293
Yeah, the initial setup for those jigs is a $#@%&. Personally, I actually build a dedicated sled. Sure, its a unitasker, but it sure as hell beats setting something up on the miter gauge every bloody time. Looks like your jig needs the pin set a few hairs closer to the blade. Another thing to consider is what type of blade you're using. Crosscut and most combination blades have an ATB bring which will cut 'batwings" into the fingers, and those buggers show. Best to use either a combination blade with a raker tooth or a ripping blade with flat top teeth

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post #7 of 18 Old 10-18-2014, 07:41 PM Thread Starter
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Here is my second attempt. A bit better if I do say so myself, but still needs some work. I built a small sled for this jig, and clamped the board with the key to the back fence. My shop is too small for a unitasker unfortunately.

I know I need a more appropriate blade, but other than that what should I change? The thing that I'm not sure about is why the 2 boards are joining at a slight angle. Any idea?

Either way, I am one step closer to success...or just buying the incra ibox.



Finger joint table saw jig?-image-3493100317.jpg

Why buy it for $7 when you can make it yourself for $92 in craft supplies
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post #8 of 18 Old 10-18-2014, 07:42 PM Thread Starter
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Finger joint table saw jig?-image-977237983.jpg

Why buy it for $7 when you can make it yourself for $92 in craft supplies
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post #9 of 18 Old 10-18-2014, 07:43 PM Thread Starter
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Finger joint table saw jig?-image-2945561422.jpg

Sorry, my phone won't let me attach more than one picture per post.

Why buy it for $7 when you can make it yourself for $92 in craft supplies
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post #10 of 18 Old 10-18-2014, 08:41 PM
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When you say slight angle, do you mean that the corner formed by the joint isnt a perfect 90, or that the joint itself is twisted? The first is usually caused by the fence not being square to the sled, the second the blade not being square.

Id reconsider not having a dedicated sled. I get what youre saying about not wanting a unitasker due to space restrictions, and im in the same boat. Thing is though, the sled doesnt have to be big, or take up a bunch of space, or even be made from the best materials. Mine is maybe 8x12ish and made from mdf. I can stow it pretty much wherever, it doesnt get in the way, cost me pennies to make since it was scraps i already had, and if i need to cut a joint, i just grab it and go. My last jig was a backer board i clamped to my other dedicated crosscut sled, and to cut a joint with it i had to first spend a half hour getting it clamped in the right spot. Every. Bloody. Time. And you know what? Bloody bastard never worked, the joints were always sloppy in comparison. Sure, its a unitasker, but its the best tool for the job.

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post #11 of 18 Old 10-18-2014, 08:52 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by epicfail48
When you say slight angle, do you mean that the corner formed by the joint isnt a perfect 90, or that the joint itself is twisted? The first is usually caused by the fence not being square to the sled, the second the blade not being square. Id reconsider not having a dedicated sled. I get what youre saying about not wanting a unitasker due to space restrictions, and im in the same boat. Thing is though, the sled doesnt have to be big, or take up a bunch of space, or even be made from the best materials. Mine is maybe 8x12ish and made from mdf. I can stow it pretty much wherever, it doesnt get in the way, cost me pennies to make since it was scraps i already had, and if i need to cut a joint, i just grab it and go. My last jig was a backer board i clamped to my other dedicated crosscut sled, and to cut a joint with it i had to first spend a half hour getting it clamped in the right spot. Every. Bloody. Time. And you know what? Bloody bastard never worked, the joints were always sloppy in comparison. Sure, its a unitasker, but its the best tool for the job.
Thanks for the input! Do you have a picture of your jig?

Why buy it for $7 when you can make it yourself for $92 in craft supplies
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post #12 of 18 Old 10-18-2014, 09:20 PM
where's my table saw?
 
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one of the best jigs for fingers

This one is micro adjustable, a great feature:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3xDXePtofxE

The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)

Last edited by woodnthings; 10-18-2014 at 09:25 PM.
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post #13 of 18 Old 10-18-2014, 11:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ddiamondd View Post
Thanks for the input! Do you have a picture of your jig?
Not presently, but ill get some posted tomorrow for ya

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post #14 of 18 Old 10-19-2014, 02:38 PM Thread Starter
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I looked in my miter saw and found what looked to be a flat tooth blade. I put in on my table saw and tested it on another finger joint. Looks like it cuts the center of the kerf slightly more than the edges. The good news is i think my jig spacing is dialed in. Now i just need to find a regular kerf blade that actually cuts a flat bottom dado. Looking at some combo blade reviews online, it looks like despite the flat tooth, it still leaves the corners cut a bit deeper. Will glue and sawdust fill the small gaps sufficiently? Ill snap a photo of the most recent attempt in a few.
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post #15 of 18 Old 10-19-2014, 02:47 PM Thread Starter
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Why buy it for $7 when you can make it yourself for $92 in craft supplies
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post #16 of 18 Old 10-19-2014, 09:19 PM
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Lookin pretty good there with the spacing. If youre still searching for a blade, Sears has a craftsman combo blade with the aforementioned raker tooth. I just picked one up meself, and im liking it pretty well. Still a little bit of bat-winging, but a lot flatter than a dedicated crosscut blade without the raker. If you have one though, try either a ripping blade or a TCG blade. Ripping blades generally have a flat top profile, no ATB, so you shouldnt get any batwinging. The TCG could maybe work, if you have one,but id still pitch trying the rip blade first

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post #17 of 18 Old 10-19-2014, 09:24 PM
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Wink

This link will be helpful in determining which blade type to use:
http://www.rockler.com/how-to/blades-101/

The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)
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post #18 of 18 Old 10-19-2014, 10:33 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by woodnthings View Post
This link will be helpful in determining which blade type to use:
http://www.rockler.com/how-to/blades-101/
That is exactly what I needed. Thanks for the link! I just ordered this, will be here tuesday and I should be able to make some box joints Tuesday evening!

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...uct_refresh_T1
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