Face Frame... without Clamps!? - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
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post #1 of 24 Old 12-28-2011, 03:24 PM Thread Starter
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Face Frame... without Clamps!?

Will be starting work on the face frame for my 12' library wall. Each unit will be installed in place by the time I start (screwed to studs), so there will be no way to access the backside, and thus to clamp with a traditional bar or pipe clamp.

My first though was to shoot a few well-placed wire nails. But then I have to using a filler and hope it stains evenly.

Second idea was to use biscuits (don't have a FF biscuit jointer, so it'd be #0's) and gently glue rub the joint. Not sure if that'll hold though.

Any other ideas that don't break the bank on tools? No, I don't have a pocket hole set up.
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post #2 of 24 Old 12-28-2011, 03:30 PM
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Glue and brads.

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post #3 of 24 Old 12-28-2011, 03:38 PM
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Have a router? Could use a slot-cutting bit and a hardwood spline.

The Kreg mini jig is cheap enough, but then you'd need to fill the holes with plugs.
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post #4 of 24 Old 12-28-2011, 04:24 PM
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Make the cabinets frameless, and use an iron on wood tape.






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post #5 of 24 Old 12-28-2011, 06:04 PM
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There are clamps that will work for what you want.

http://www.rockler.com/c/clamps.cfm

Look down the left column for the Three Way Clamp. These often come in handy.

George

PS I should add that I have found these clamps for much, much less money than Rockler wants.

Last edited by GeorgeC; 12-28-2011 at 06:21 PM.
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post #6 of 24 Old 12-28-2011, 06:27 PM
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If you have a table saw and a dado set, you could dado the backs of the face frame pieces and glue and miter the corners.
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post #7 of 24 Old 12-28-2011, 07:22 PM Thread Starter
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The 3-way clamps look intriguing. Unfortunately, the Harbor Freight (my typical source for bar clamps) version only fits 2-3/8" wide by 2-3/8" deep... and my face frame stiles are closer to 3" wide. No way I'm paying Rockler price ($35 ea). I'll keep looking around, but I'm not seeing anything over 2" that I can afford a bunch of.

Ripping dadod down the backs is an interesting idea, though I'd also have to dado the shelves horizontally out of the stiles.

Already built four of the carcasses, with the pieces for the fifth already cut out, so it's a bit late for frameless.

I do have a router... three in fact. However there's no nailing in the center of the stiles (except a few pieces of blocking)!
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post #8 of 24 Old 12-28-2011, 07:31 PM
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I'm thinking that 23 gauge headless pins are so small they wouldn't be seen. Things are stubborn little suckers too so I think they would likely hold stuff till the glue set up anyway.
http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=25406

That Porter Cable only takes 1" pins, this Hitachi will shoot 1-3/8"
http://www.amazon.com/Hitachi-NP35A-Gauge-Micro-Nailer/dp/B003SHDM84

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post #9 of 24 Old 12-28-2011, 07:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Thadius856 View Post

Already built four of the carcasses, with the pieces for the fifth already cut out, so it's a bit late for frameless.
What did you do...leave spaces in between? You could mount the face frames by nailing in a 4d finishing nail into the front edge of the cabinet, and snipping off the head at an angle leaving about 1/2"-5/8" protruding, and then put some glue on the leading edge of the cabinet and pound the frames onto the nails.






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post #10 of 24 Old 12-28-2011, 07:34 PM Thread Starter
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The first link is back to the clamps. Accidental?

Wish I could shoot those pins, but... right now my only nailer is a cordless Paslode on Tall Yellow cells. :\
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post #11 of 24 Old 12-28-2011, 07:36 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cabinetman View Post
What did you do...leave spaces in between? You could mount the face frames by nailing in a 4d finishing nail into the front edge of the cabinet, and snipping off the head at an angle leaving about 1/2"-5/8" protruding, and then put some glue on the leading edge of the cabinet and pound the frames onto the nails.
Something like that, actually...


Last edited by Thadius856; 12-29-2011 at 12:53 AM.
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post #12 of 24 Old 12-28-2011, 07:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Thadius856 View Post
The first link is back to the clamps. Accidental?

Wish I could shoot those pins, but... right now my only nailer is a cordless Paslode on Tall Yellow cells. :\
Sorry about that;
http://www.amazon.com/Porter-Cable-PIN100-2-Inch-1-Inch-23-Gauge/dp/B00006411F

John

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post #13 of 24 Old 12-28-2011, 08:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Thadius856 View Post
Something like that, actually...

http://postimage.org/image/92nadjdqb/
Did you build the boxes and then install them?






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post #14 of 24 Old 12-29-2011, 12:50 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cabinetman View Post
Did you build the boxes and then install them?
Built and put in place, yes.

Waiting to finish the center unit (this weekend I hope) and recessed lighting before I put attach to the studs. But yes, that's the idea... wasn't many other ways with every wall wavy as a Pringle, an uneven floor, and a sloped ceiling.
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post #15 of 24 Old 12-29-2011, 02:56 PM
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[QUOTE=cabinetman;277390]...You could mount the face frames by nailing in a 4d finishing nail into the front edge of the cabinet, and snipping off the head at an angle leaving about 1/2"-5/8" protruding, and then put some glue on the leading edge of the cabinet and pound the frames onto the nails.[QUOTE]

Hmmm... that's a solution I never would have thought of -- but I'll certainly keep it in mind for future reference(!)
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post #16 of 24 Old 12-29-2011, 03:10 PM
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Quote:
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Built and put in place, yes.
Why didn't you install the frames before placing the cabinets?





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post #17 of 24 Old 12-29-2011, 05:18 PM Thread Starter
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Because the walls bow up to an inch over a two foot span, the ceiling bows over an inch, and the floor is off-level by about half an inch. Can't scribe the outside stiles, top piece, and toe kicks without them in place...

...wife also dictated that I couldn't keep hogging the dining room table for woodworking. lol
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post #18 of 24 Old 12-29-2011, 05:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Thadius856 View Post
Because the walls bow up to an inch over a two foot span, the ceiling bows over an inch, and the floor is off-level by about half an inch. Can't scribe the outside stiles, top piece, and toe kicks without them in place...

...wife also dictated that I couldn't keep hogging the dining room table for woodworking. lol
What you're describing are the common problems when installing cabinetry. They get dealt with as they are found. The initial measuring should entail evaluating what there is to work with. Many times taking a shortcut to cope with irregular circumstances, can be an exercise in futility...as you are finding out.






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post #19 of 24 Old 12-30-2011, 12:29 AM Thread Starter
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If I've unintentionally "taken a shortcut", then so be it. I'm already over 100 hours into this project so I can't say as I feel that I've tried to cut corners any step of the way. In fact, the assembly method came from this Popular Mechanics article on how to build a bookcase.

On the other hand, every moment I don't have to spend reading a stack of books to research up on techniques is another moment I get to spend time with my family before I'm tasked to deploy, and hence why I ask here. Your Special Forces sword patch tells me that you might understand where I'm coming from.

As it stands right now, I'm looking at a combination of glue, the snipped finishing nails and some #0 biscuits. Thanks to everybody who replied.
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post #20 of 24 Old 12-30-2011, 05:59 AM
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You can use a spring board to act as a clamp on fr.....IF,you can hide the screw hole they sometimes require at top N bttm.You can alternatively use a block on floor....in any case you spring or bow out this pc of scrap to allow the inserstion of blocks(a wedge'y,haha)that act as a clamp on style.Pressure is practically unlimited.Best of luck,BW

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