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post #1 of 12 Old 07-05-2013, 08:58 PM Thread Starter
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Face frame

I pretty sure face frames should be glued to the carcass of a cabinet, bookcase, etc., but I worry about wood movement of the stiles being restricted by being glued in place. Am I worrying about nothing?
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post #2 of 12 Old 07-05-2013, 09:08 PM
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Originally Posted by djg View Post
I pretty sure face frames should be glued to the carcass of a cabinet, bookcase, etc., but I worry about wood movement of the stiles being restricted by being glued in place. Am I worrying about nothing?
Yes...don't worry...be happy. Glue the face frame.








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post #3 of 12 Old 07-05-2013, 09:17 PM Thread Starter
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I should have explained a little better so you don't think I'm a complete idiot. I've seen examples were pocket screws, biscuits or brads are used so the faceframe would float. I'd rather glue it to add a little strength and a better look, so I though I'd just ask what others do.

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post #4 of 12 Old 07-05-2013, 09:24 PM
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Like Cabinetman said. Just glue. Usually people use biscuits, or dominos for alignment purposes, for clamping while the glue holding the face frame to the carcass dries.
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post #5 of 12 Old 07-05-2013, 09:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by djg View Post
I should have explained a little better so you don't think I'm a complete idiot. I've seen examples were pocket screws, biscuits or brads are used so the faceframe would float. I'd rather glue it to add a little strength and a better look, so I though I'd just ask what others do.

Thanks
Face frames should be firmly attached to the leading edge of a cabinet. It stiffens the cabinet components, and carries the weight and action of the doors. Face frames should not "float".






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post #6 of 12 Old 07-05-2013, 10:35 PM
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Has mentioned already. Glue the face frame. Some people just butt joint some use biscuits either works but me I use a dado in the face frame and a rabbet cut on the carcass its more work but that's how I prefer to do it.
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post #7 of 12 Old 07-05-2013, 11:23 PM
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You don't have to worry about wood movement with face frames. It's when you have larger panels like the panels in cabinet doors that wood movement needs to be considered. On door panels the frame around the panel is glued but the panel itself is allowed to float free.
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post #8 of 12 Old 07-07-2013, 10:01 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for all your replies.

The face frame is on, but I have a new problem. The face frame didn't turn out as tight as I would have like it. A slight gap in one corner developed when clamping. The wood is pine and I am going to use a wood conditioner before staining so the finish won't end up blotching like is so common? with pine. Can I use a wood filler the same color as pine, treat with wood conditioner and then stain? Or would a dark streak result? Any other ideas?

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post #9 of 12 Old 07-07-2013, 11:51 PM
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Originally Posted by djg View Post
Thanks for all your replies.

The face frame is on, but I have a new problem. The face frame didn't turn out as tight as I would have like it. A slight gap in one corner developed when clamping. The wood is pine and I am going to use a wood conditioner before staining so the finish won't end up blotching like is so common? with pine. Can I use a wood filler the same color as pine, treat with wood conditioner and then stain? Or would a dark streak result? Any other ideas?

Thanks
If you use a wood conditioner chances are the place you fill will be a light streak rather than dark. If that happens you can color the streak with a small artist brush and some tinting color or a touch up marker will work. If you want to be sure, you could fill a nail hole on some scrap wood and try the finish.
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post #10 of 12 Old 07-07-2013, 11:58 PM
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I have a question. Did you make the face frame first then glue it to the carcass or try to glue it together while attaching it to the carcass?
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post #11 of 12 Old 07-08-2013, 08:59 AM Thread Starter
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I had glued the carcass together the day before and then I fitted the half-set frame to the carcass. There's a couple of things I should have done differently; hindsite, you known. I don't want to concentrate on those things just on how to fix the problem.
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post #12 of 12 Old 07-08-2013, 09:01 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Steve Neul View Post
If you use a wood conditioner chances are the place you fill will be a light streak rather than dark. If that happens you can color the streak with a small artist brush and some tinting color or a touch up marker will work. If you want to be sure, you could fill a nail hole on some scrap wood and try the finish.
I'd rather have a light streak than a dark. Then I could adjust the color as you have said. And yes I guess a test piece would be the smart thing to do.
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