Epoxy for wood - Page 2 - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
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post #21 of 30 Old 08-19-2019, 07:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by epicfail48 View Post
That doesn't prove anything beyond that type of epoxy not working in that particular application however many years ago. Maybe for that situation yeahz that epoxy was a bad choice because of low flexibility leading to broken glue joints or similar

The bottom line here is that presenting one, personal opinion as a solid fact is a fallacy, and a blanket statement like "epoxy isn't an appropriate glue for wood" is factually wrong to put it nicely. Does epoxy work everywhere? No. Neither do PVA adhesives.
We were just gluing narrow strips of ash and Honduras mahogany in a gentle curve to make tiller handles for boars. It maybe had a 3/4" bow in 4' and was enough pressure to cause the joints to fail.

Over the years I've had other failures with epoxy gluing it steel or other non-porous things. In hindsight I believe it has as much to do with wood movement as anything. Epoxy dries harder than PVA therefore more likely to crack. Sometimes you don't have a choice though. PVA won't bond to steel where epoxy will. It just makes sense that if you are gluing new wood to new wood you use a glue formulated for wood.
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post #22 of 30 Old 08-19-2019, 09:29 PM
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I don't know how many more different ways I can say this. The bickering simply has to stop. Honestly, NO ONE wants to hear it. We are all either part of the problem or we are part of the solution. It doesn't matter who said what. We can CHOOSE not to respond to the nonsense, report it, and then simply scroll past it all. If we engage in the bickering we are absolutely part of the issue.

We all have different opinions. That's real life.

Can you imagine how boring things would be if we all agreed on everything?

I encourage open discussions. It is how we all learn.

That being said, woodworking isn't an angry debate, even when we disagree.

When a member asks a question, the odds are very good that there will be a wide range of answers, some of which may be the complete opposite of what you believe. When we see a post (in the responses) that we don't agree with, it is not up to us to prove why their response is right or wrong, or why we think our response it better. Doing so will only confuse the original point of the discussion. Sometimes there is no right or wrong answer. It is up to the original poster to determine which response makes the most sense to them.

Treat each other with respect.

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This thread will be closed while I clean up the nonsense.

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post #23 of 30 Old 08-19-2019, 10:25 PM
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This thread is now open.

@homestd we apologize for the disruption to your thread.

Let's get back to woodworking now.

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post #24 of 30 Old 08-20-2019, 10:27 AM
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Titebond III gets my vote. Remember the Indians used tree gum or hide glue to build canoes.
FWIW, I pulled off some 2x4s that the previous owner used to mount tool racks. The wood came off with pieces of concrete block.

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post #25 of 30 Old 08-20-2019, 10:58 AM
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You can tape off the joints prior to gluing.
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post #26 of 30 Old 08-20-2019, 01:54 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pineknot_86 View Post
Titebond III gets my vote. Remember the Indians used tree gum or hide glue to build canoes.
FWIW, I pulled off some 2x4s that the previous owner used to mount tool racks. The wood came off with pieces of concrete block.
Yes, When I was doing custom millwork years ago, hyde glue was all we used. It's a damn good bond. I really don't know why I'm not using it today.

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post #27 of 30 Old 08-20-2019, 02:41 PM
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jbweld also makes jbwood, it is a 2 part epoxy that works well outside
i have a laminated 6 foot radius deck rail that i built 18 years ago
it has needed a few repairs over the years mostly due to knots that cause rot/delamination
i repaired it a few times with waterproof fillers that failed within a year or 2
7 yrs ago i tried the jbwood, have yet to have a failure

i originally tried the twin tube pack for a few knot voids on top of the rail, it hasn't failed in 7 yrs
it is thin enough to flow into cracks



i ended up skim coating the top of the radius 5 yrs ago and used the bigger putty kit
it is a lot thicker and goes on like thick filler
still looks good



i'd use the twin tube for glue up and small filling, i used masking tape to contain the flow
the putty pack for bigger filling of rotted areas, just gouge out to good wood and fill
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post #28 of 30 Old 08-20-2019, 02:42 PM
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and thank you cricket, the bickering of a few gets tiring
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post #29 of 30 Old 08-20-2019, 02:46 PM
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west systems also has renovation wood epoxy fillers
very pricey $$$ compared to jbwoodweld
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post #30 of 30 Old 08-21-2019, 12:06 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve Neul View Post
We were just gluing narrow strips of ash and Honduras mahogany in a gentle curve to make tiller handles for boars. It maybe had a 3/4" bow in 4' and was enough pressure to cause the joints to fail.

Over the years I've had other failures with epoxy gluing it steel or other non-porous things. In hindsight I believe it has as much to do with wood movement as anything. Epoxy dries harder than PVA therefore more likely to crack. Sometimes you don't have a choice though. PVA won't bond to steel where epoxy will. It just makes sense that if you are gluing new wood to new wood you use a glue formulated for wood.
Like i said, wrong glue for that application. Again, there are epoxies meant to be more flexible that wouldve worked perfectly for that application. This is why no matter how much experience someone has, research is always necessary, because sometimes you miss out on the perfect solution to a problem.

Ill keep championing it, the G-Flex epoxy is fantastic stuff for wood things, and West Systems in general makes excellent products. Even their standard epoxies work great as general purpose wood glues, for things like furniture joints, i.e mortise and tenons and the like. Stands up to seasonal movement just fine in those situations.

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