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post #1 of 9 Old 01-15-2017, 05:47 PM Thread Starter
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Drill Table

I sandwiched a pc. of 1/2 ply between two sheets of 1/4 inch hardboard, my base was nice and square and I attached it to the top on a flat surface. When I mounted it to my drill press there is a bow to it, it's like the ends curled up. What am I doing wrong?

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post #2 of 9 Old 01-15-2017, 06:03 PM
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My guess is you used the wrong glue. If you used wood glue the glue dries around the parameter and stays wet in the middle. If you would cut it in two the glue in the middle would be as wet as when you applied it. I worked for a guy that glued up a 4x8 sheet and set bricks on it and let it dry over a weekend. The next Monday the plan was to cut the sheet into parts but it went all to pieces. The glue only dried about 8" in from the edges. When doing something like that it would be better to use either a resin glue or epoxy.
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post #3 of 9 Old 01-15-2017, 06:43 PM Thread Starter
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My guess is you used the wrong glue. If you used wood glue the glue dries around the parameter and stays wet in the middle. If you would cut it in two the glue in the middle would be as wet as when you applied it. I worked for a guy that glued up a 4x8 sheet and set bricks on it and let it dry over a weekend. The next Monday the plan was to cut the sheet into parts but it went all to pieces. The glue only dried about 8" in from the edges. When doing something like that it would be better to use either a resin glue or epoxy.
Per the instructions I used a spray adhesive, sprayed each side waited a minute then pressed them together, first time doing this procedure but I liked it vs. glue.
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post #4 of 9 Old 01-15-2017, 06:55 PM
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Per the instructions I used a spray adhesive, sprayed each side waited a minute then pressed them together, first time doing this procedure but I liked it vs. glue.
Spray adhesive wouldn't be a very durable adhesive but I don't think the adhesive caused the problem. The board after you laminated it might needed to be sealed with a finish. If it's damp where you are humidity might be the culprit.
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post #5 of 9 Old 01-15-2017, 07:16 PM Thread Starter
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Spray adhesive wouldn't be a very durable adhesive but I don't think the adhesive caused the problem. The board after you laminated it might needed to be sealed with a finish. If it's damp where you are humidity might be the culprit.
It was a Loctite product, can said Heavy Duty, the lamination is solid, the pcs. are 31 X17 so not a great deal of area. Dead of winter here in Iowa, very low humidity so I think we can rule that out. How about if I removed the table and attached some hardwood stiffeners on the bottom to draw it level? Except for that bow it looks pretty good. Thank you for your replies and suggestions.
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post #6 of 9 Old 01-15-2017, 08:09 PM
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It was a Loctite product, can said Heavy Duty, the lamination is solid, the pcs. are 31 X17 so not a great deal of area. Dead of winter here in Iowa, very low humidity so I think we can rule that out. How about if I removed the table and attached some hardwood stiffeners on the bottom to draw it level? Except for that bow it looks pretty good. Thank you for your replies and suggestions.
What I meant about the spray adhesive being not durable is it tends to delaminate after a year or so. It's kind of like contact cement, it's rubbery. The manufacturers usually only warranty it for about a year.

Were you within the temperature range of the spray adhesive when you laminated it? Most spray adhesives require a 60 degree minimum. If it was too cool it may have caused the problem.

If you had room for hardwood stiffeners it sure wouldn't hurt.
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post #7 of 9 Old 01-15-2017, 08:46 PM
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Is it the wrong glue or is it the wrong materials?
I've made a couple of similar table tops, 1 for a router table, 1 for a drill press. Here's how I made them (not that this is the only way).
Glued 2 pieces of 3/4" mdf together (sandwich style) with carpenter's glue. Trimmed the perimeter with thin strips of red oak - used carpenter's glue again. Glued Formica to top and bottom with contact cement. Routed a bevel around the oak perimeter. After this slots can be added for various hold-downs and the like. The oak trim is decorative but also protects the mdf from damage and moisture. I've had these tables for years and they are still perfectly flat.
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post #8 of 9 Old 01-15-2017, 08:58 PM Thread Starter
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That is good to know about the delamination, that possibility was left off the can I got. I am gonna use some stiffeners and will countersink a bunch of screws to hold the whole thing together. Again thanks!
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post #9 of 9 Old 01-15-2017, 09:04 PM
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Your 1/2 inch plywood probably only has three plies. The top and bottom ply grain are the same direction with the middle ply lying cross grain to them.
Even plywood will warp, if the two plies top and bottom want to warp in the same direction.
That's what I'd guess happened.

Funny story along the lines of Steve's comment about glue not curing/drying all the way through. Many years ago, I mounted a seat in my boat, using 5200 Marine Sealant to glue the aluminum of the bench to a plywood base the swivel was mounted to. I'd used the boat a couple of times (maybe three weeks had passed) before taking Wife out for a trip. It was the rear seat. My use was to sit in it and run the motor, I rarely lean back.

Wife is sitting back there, fishing out the back of the boat. Feet up on the transom, leaning back in the chair. I am facing forward when I hear, "Oh, ****!" and this sucking/ripping sound. I get turned around just in time to see Wife and seat fall into the bottom of the boat.

Fortunately, the seat back supported most of her, and she didn't get hurt. That sealant had only cured about an inch or so. I guess it sealed off the air, and prevented any further curing. The ripping sound had been the plywood coming apart for that inch or so, and the uncured glue was the sucking sound.

Funny now, scary for a few minutes then.
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