drawer joints with different wood thicknesses - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
 
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post #1 of 12 Old 01-12-2013, 05:43 PM Thread Starter
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drawer joints with different wood thicknesses

I want to build some drawers with 3/4 oak on the front but 1/2 wood, possibly pine on the sides and back. I found inst. on youtube on a "lock rabbet" which looked like a simple but strong joint but they used 3/4 on the sides as well. I do not have the skill to make dovetail joints, so need something simple but reasonable strong.
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post #2 of 12 Old 01-12-2013, 06:34 PM
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It would depend on the type of drawers you are making. But maybe look into finger jointing on the table saw or If overlay drawer fronts I have had good success with rabbited sides with 18 gauge nails shot from the side and glue to hold in place.
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post #3 of 12 Old 01-12-2013, 07:29 PM
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A simple butt joint will work well. Just rabbit the end of the front 3/8" deep by 1/2" wide and glue. Table saw or router for the rabbit.

George
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post #4 of 12 Old 01-12-2013, 10:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ronnie1a View Post
I want to build some drawers with 3/4 oak on the front but 1/2 wood, possibly pine on the sides and back. I found inst. on youtube on a "lock rabbet" which looked like a simple but strong joint but they used 3/4 on the sides as well. I do not have the skill to make dovetail joints, so need something simple but reasonable strong.
Hi Ronnie - Lock rabbet is a simple, stong joint. I would use it for the back to sides and the rabbet joint for the front to sides.

John

If I strive for perfection, I can generally achieve good'nuff, If I strive for good'nuff, I generally achieve firewood
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post #5 of 12 Old 01-12-2013, 11:15 PM
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Yep, the LRJ is the way to go...
http://www.woodmagazine.com/woodwork...drawer-joints/

Still Got ALL my Fingers!!!
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post #6 of 12 Old 01-19-2013, 09:01 PM
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Here is a simple drawer lock joint that I like. The first cut is a 1/4" slot on the end of the drawer front, can be cut with a router table and slotting bit or on the table saw with dado blades. The next cut is about 1/8" and cuts through the first slot and into the back of the drawer front about 1/8". The drawer side is self explanatory, cut to fit the drawer front joint. The joint slips together from the top or bottom. Different thickness in DF or DS don't matter. It's an easy joint to cut and can't pull apart. Once the bottom slides in the groove, nothing will move.
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post #7 of 12 Old 01-19-2013, 10:14 PM
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Here is a simple drawer lock joint that I like. The first cut is a 1/4" slot on the end of the drawer front, can be cut with a router table and slotting bit or on the table saw with dado blades. The next cut is about 1/8" and cuts through the first slot and into the back of the drawer front about 1/8". The drawer side is self explanatory, cut to fit the drawer front joint. The joint slips together from the top or bottom. Different thickness in DF or DS don't matter. It's an easy joint to cut and can't pull apart. Once the bottom slides in the groove, nothing will move.

I like that one. Just one question - do you cut the back short to slide the bottom in that way? Or???

I have been using another variation and incorporating the bottom, using the sides to lock it together.

John

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post #8 of 12 Old 01-19-2013, 10:28 PM
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How do you know you don't have the skill for a dovetailed drawer?

No experienced joiner was not in that same place at some point.

You have to try it sometime. It's not as difficult as it looks and you'll be beaming with pride on a new skill learned after you get it done!
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post #9 of 12 Old 01-19-2013, 10:41 PM
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I like a short back so the bottom can slide in a groove in the sides and front and lock everything together. Most of the time I add glue blocks. I don't always use that lock joint. I seldom make separate drawer fronts the way kitchen cabinet manufacturers do. Seems lately, I've been using sliding dovetails which is another good joint if the sides are set in on the front enough, perfect for metal side slides and full overlay fronts. I like a dovetailed center wood slide, too. The sliding dovetails are a little harder to cut correctly but can be another option instead of traditional dovetails.
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post #10 of 12 Old 01-19-2013, 11:25 PM
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Hi Hammer - thanks, I thought that's what you were doing but suspected you may have another trick about. I usually work with plywood so haven't had any qualms about just glueing the bottom in so I use the lock joint on the sides to front and back as well as all the sides to the bottom. When I do a dry fit, the only way to get the thing back apart is remove one of the sides first. I suppose, in theory, if I used side mounted slides, I wouldn't need glue at all.

John

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post #11 of 12 Old 01-20-2013, 07:28 PM
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Originally Posted by firemedic View Post
How do you know you don't have the skill for a dovetailed drawer?

No experienced joiner was not in that same place at some point.

You have to try it sometime. It's not as difficult as it looks and you'll be beaming with pride on a new skill learned after you get it done!



Yea, what he said.
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post #12 of 12 Old 03-05-2013, 10:37 AM
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Hi all, new member here. I think some of these lock joints are starting to look more and more complicated, as much as a dovetail joint or more. I haven't cut any dovetail joints yet but I plan on trying my hand at it in the coming days. I don't really think it looks all that hard and from what I've read they seem to be the sturdiest joint. True? I am just wondering what most people here use for their drawer joints and how they hold up. I am starting to make furniture for my house and I have two little kids that can be very hard on things. I want my furniture to last and I was originally thinking about using all dovetail joints until I starting reading this thread and I would like to get some insight from others here.
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