Dowel Jointing door frame - how tight to avoid hydraulic/air lock?
I use a dowel jig called a Joint Genie for a lot of construction - mainly Eggerboard etc which I get delivered perfectly cut to size and square. It works fine as along as you bessey clamp properly & sand/microwave dowels.
I recently decided on a course of masochism.
46mm thick Sapele framed door, 60mm x 8mm dowels (34x2 drill depth) Sikkens/AkzoNobel White.
Door assembly dry fit is ok.
On 3-4 edges I can get a very thin piece of paper 1/16-1/8in into a joint edge if held super taught and worked back and forth - but no further. Dowel alignment is ok. Joints go together with a rocking motion or very light clamp push.
I plan on drying the dowels a little in a very warm dry room.
One dowel in each joint will be a slip fit M8 stainless precision dowel (unglued, 80mm) which does make a difference in door kick resistance. Centre panels will be BS1088 c.22mm I have laying around from other projects.
My concern is hydraulic / air lock when I stick Titebond-III in there re <10mins open time.
Q - Would you run a sharp chisel down one side of the dowels to deliberately ensure a glue exit path - or is that unnecessary / compromising?
The dowels are fluted, but sanding to firm push size has reduced that somewhat. They were oversized quite noticeably even with a light microwave. I'm sure I remember dowels with a deliberate 1/32in notch in one side, to ensure there was zero hydraulic/air lock. Never seen them for years.