Dowel Jointing door frame - how tight to avoid hydraulic/air lock? - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
 
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post #1 of 5 Old 02-20-2015, 08:11 AM Thread Starter
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Dowel Jointing door frame - how tight to avoid hydraulic/air lock?

I use a dowel jig called a Joint Genie for a lot of construction - mainly Eggerboard etc which I get delivered perfectly cut to size and square. It works fine as along as you bessey clamp properly & sand/microwave dowels.

I recently decided on a course of masochism.
46mm thick Sapele framed door, 60mm x 8mm dowels (34x2 drill depth) Sikkens/AkzoNobel White.

Door assembly dry fit is ok.
On 3-4 edges I can get a very thin piece of paper 1/16-1/8in into a joint edge if held super taught and worked back and forth - but no further. Dowel alignment is ok. Joints go together with a rocking motion or very light clamp push.

I plan on drying the dowels a little in a very warm dry room.
One dowel in each joint will be a slip fit M8 stainless precision dowel (unglued, 80mm) which does make a difference in door kick resistance. Centre panels will be BS1088 c.22mm I have laying around from other projects.

My concern is hydraulic / air lock when I stick Titebond-III in there re <10mins open time.

Q - Would you run a sharp chisel down one side of the dowels to deliberately ensure a glue exit path - or is that unnecessary / compromising?

The dowels are fluted, but sanding to firm push size has reduced that somewhat. They were oversized quite noticeably even with a light microwave. I'm sure I remember dowels with a deliberate 1/32in notch in one side, to ensure there was zero hydraulic/air lock. Never seen them for years.
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post #2 of 5 Old 02-20-2015, 08:20 AM
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You might buy spiral cut dowels. I just use a parting tool carving chisel to cut a V groove down the side of the dowel.
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post #3 of 5 Old 02-20-2015, 08:33 AM
where's my table saw?
 
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a mechanised approach

To make several long lengths with a slot for glue to escape, make a "V" block guide to fit directly over your table saw. Make the guide long enough to be clamped in place in the front and rear on the table. Slowly raise the blade into the "V" ...about 1/8" should do it depending on the diameter. Run your dowels down the V groove making the slot on the bottom.

The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)
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post #4 of 5 Old 02-20-2015, 02:07 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for replies.

Got a new micro chisel and cut a slim slot in each dowel clamped in a drilling jig.
Dowels drying in a 38% RH room (electric heating has its uses) and notice things seat better.

Dowels always make me nervous as I have been caught out before.
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post #5 of 5 Old 02-23-2015, 02:25 PM
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I have heard of knurling metal dowels for glue clearance.

Wise men speak because they have something to say; fools because they have to say something -Plato

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Last edited by FrankC; 02-23-2015 at 02:28 PM.
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