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post #21 of 26 Old 02-10-2015, 03:02 PM
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Originally Posted by epicfail48 View Post
Box joint jig attached to my miter gauge
That was one of the first fixtures I made.

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post #22 of 26 Old 02-17-2015, 07:32 PM
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Oneal, you are not saying you adjust the bit depth after doing the pins and before doing the tails. The trick is to never adjust bit depth between the two. If material thickness is all the same and the machine is setup for the thickness correctly, you should never have to adjust the bit depth.

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post #23 of 26 Old 02-17-2015, 07:35 PM
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I have the same jig and one thing that i have found is that placing some 1 1/2" painters tape across the front board that you are cutting tails does a real nice job of preventing splintering of the wood. I built kitchen cabinets for our church and dovetailed all the drawers, I used 1/2" baltic birch plywood that has 7 plies. This makes real nice drawers and more than suitable for most cabinet jobs. So no prior sanding or planing is necessary. Good Luck!
Plywood for drawers other then the bottom, never heard of that before.

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post #24 of 26 Old 02-17-2015, 08:12 PM
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Plywood for drawers other then the bottom, never heard of that before.
Baltic birch is a bit of a special beast. Its solid birch throughout, so it may as well be solid hardwood. Holds joinery just as well, as compared to standard plywood where the layers de-laminate

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post #25 of 26 Old 02-17-2015, 08:13 PM
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Plywood for drawers other then the bottom, never heard of that before.

I've seen it a lot....

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post #26 of 26 Old 02-17-2015, 11:28 PM
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Originally Posted by madmantrapper View Post
Oneal, you are not saying you adjust the bit depth after doing the pins and before doing the tails. The trick is to never adjust bit depth between the two. If material thickness is all the same and the machine is setup for the thickness correctly, you should never have to adjust the bit depth.

In a thru dovetail joint like the OP posted, the tails are routed with a dovetail bit. The pins are routed with a straight bit. In this case the proper way to fix the joint's fit would have been to increase the straight bit's cutting depth on the pin board. This would have allowed the tails to sit deeper in their sockets and flush up the joint.

Half blind DT's are routed with only 1 bit, and there the bit depth should not change between pins & tails.
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