Cutting tenons on table saw - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
 
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post #1 of 15 Old 08-18-2011, 09:59 AM Thread Starter
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Cutting tenons on table saw

I set up my tenon jig on the table saw last night, to cut tenons trying a stacked dado blade, but ran out of time and could not finish the experiment. Using the dado with the jig will give 4 cuts instead of 8 with a normal blade.

Anyone try this before, or is the cut too splintered?
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post #2 of 15 Old 08-18-2011, 12:22 PM
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I only use a stacked dado when I am cutting th tenons with them laying flat on the table, using a miter gauge to move them. When I use my tenoning jig I use just the regular saw blade.
I would think that making shoulder cuts with the regular blade first would still be needed even if the stacked set works with a tenoning jig so that (to me anyway) makes changing out to use the stacked set just more time. Unless I am visualizing this all wrong. (I have been visualizing Heather Locklear for some reason....so may not be fully attentive here)
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post #3 of 15 Old 08-18-2011, 01:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WillemJM
I set up my tenon jig on the table saw last night, to cut tenons trying a stacked dado blade, but ran out of time and could not finish the experiment. Using the dado with the jig will give 4 cuts instead of 8 with a normal blade.

Anyone try this before, or is the cut too splintered?
It works, but I don't use more than the two outer blades and a shim. I also don't make very deep cuts like that...

~tom ...it's better to remain silent and be thought a fool than to open one's mouth and remove all doubt...
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post #4 of 15 Old 08-18-2011, 02:29 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thintz View Post
I only use a stacked dado when I am cutting th tenons with them laying flat on the table, using a miter gauge to move them. When I use my tenoning jig I use just the regular saw blade.
I would think that making shoulder cuts with the regular blade first would still be needed even if the stacked set works with a tenoning jig so that (to me anyway) makes changing out to use the stacked set just more time. Unless I am visualizing this all wrong. (I have been visualizing Heather Locklear for some reason....so may not be fully attentive here)
I meant like in this picture.
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post #5 of 15 Old 08-19-2011, 10:50 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thintz View Post
I only use a stacked dado when I am cutting th tenons with them laying flat on the table, using a miter gauge to move them. When I use my tenoning jig I use just the regular saw blade.
I would think that making shoulder cuts with the regular blade first would still be needed even if the stacked set works with a tenoning jig so that (to me anyway) makes changing out to use the stacked set just more time. Unless I am visualizing this all wrong. (I have been visualizing Heather Locklear for some reason....so may not be fully attentive here)

+1 for Locklear
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post #6 of 15 Old 08-19-2011, 11:02 AM
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humm normally i cut the shoulders with the incra 1000se gauge/stop, than switch to the tennon jig to finish up. normally just an onsrud 50 tooth combo.
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post #7 of 15 Old 08-19-2011, 11:35 AM Thread Starter
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humm normally i cut the shoulders with the incra 1000se gauge/stop, than switch to the tennon jig to finish up. normally just an onsrud 50 tooth combo.
I use to do the same with both shoulders and cheeks then go to the jig.

Added per picture above, I added a back board and a spacer board on the tenon jig last nigt then proceded to cut some of the cheeks with the stacked dado. Pleased with the results, cuts are clean and minimal tear out. Next step is the shoulders, some time tomorrow.

If that goes well, this will be my new method, meaning four cuts per tenon and it's done.

Building six chairs, total of 132 tenons, that will be 528 cuts instead of 1,056 cuts.
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post #8 of 15 Old 08-19-2011, 12:20 PM
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i guess it boils down to the ability of the stacked dado to provide a flat bottom cut, which is now the shoulder (read fit to mortise), and reasonably splinter free.
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post #9 of 15 Old 08-19-2011, 02:28 PM
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I don't like what I see in the picture...

There is no zero clearance plate. If that piece shifts at all...Big Scary Problems and no accuracy. And what about the opposite face at the same angle?


The advantage to using a blade rather than a stacked dado is, as you say fewer cuts. If you use a ZCTP and the cuts are flat and splniter free then you probably will be OK.
I have seen, but never tried a dual blade/spacer approach to tenons, using a 1/2" spacer in between 2 similar blades for a 1/2" thick tenon. So it depends on the thickness of the tenon wheter this will work. It will save one pass per tenon. Shoulders still need to be cut.....4 passes per tenon.
I made a tenon jig I really like that uses the fence for positioning :
http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f27/t...odified-15905/ Read on to find the best modification.

The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)
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post #10 of 15 Old 08-19-2011, 02:48 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by woodnthings View Post
There is no zero clearance plate. If that piece shifts at all...Big Scary Problems and no accuracy. And what about the opposite face at the same angle?


The advantage to using a blade rather than a stacked dado is, as you say fewer cuts. If you use a ZCTP and the cuts are flat and splniter free then you probably will be OK.
I have seen, but never tried a dual blade/spacer approach to tenons, using a 1/2" spacer in between 2 similar blades for a 1/2" thick tenon. So it depends on the thickness of the tenon wheter this will work. It will save one pass per tenon. Shoulders still need to be cut.....4 passes per tenon.
I made a tenon jig I really like that uses the fence for positioning :
http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f27/t...odified-15905/ Read on to find the best modification.
Thx for the info.
Help with some understanding. I did exactly that last night, except I added a board (spacer) between the jig and my piece to be cut, so I can cut both sides from the same face. Also added a back board for tear-out and the results were clean, square and good. Accuracy was good.

What is a ZCTP?

Also why do you think the accuracy will be off?

I have plates, but did not bother, so also did not use a zero clearance plate, did not see the need as there was no tear-out.
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post #11 of 15 Old 08-19-2011, 05:30 PM
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ZCTP = zero clearance throat plate

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Originally Posted by WillemJM View Post
Thx for the info.
Help with some understanding. I did exactly that last night, except I added a board (spacer) between the jig and my piece to be cut, so I can cut both sides from the same face. Also added a back board for tear-out and the results were clean, square and good. Accuracy was good.

What is a ZCTP?

Also why do you think the accuracy will be off?

I have plates, but did not bother, so also did not use a zero clearance plate, did not see the need as there was no tear-out.
If it "shifts" the accuracy will be off.

A ZCTP is for safety as much or even more than for tear out.
If the tenon can shift below the table surface it will jamb the blade and kick back. The picture shows removing the right side of the tenon, without a ZCTP the tenon will be able to shift since it's not riding on a supported table surface.

A ZCTP for a dado head is specific to that width of stack, so you need a few ....just sayin' bill

The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)
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post #12 of 15 Old 08-19-2011, 08:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thintz View Post
I only use a stacked dado when I am cutting th tenons with them laying flat on the table, using a miter gauge to move them. When I use my tenoning jig I use just the regular saw blade.
I would think that making shoulder cuts with the regular blade first would still be needed even if the stacked set works with a tenoning jig so that (to me anyway) makes changing out to use the stacked set just more time. Unless I am visualizing this all wrong. (I have been visualizing Heather Locklear for some reason....so may not be fully attentive here)
+1. Same here. Tenons can be cut with a single blade, like doing rabbets.








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post #13 of 15 Old 08-19-2011, 08:54 PM
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Tenons on the router table?

This is as close as I can come so far for making tenons in one pass:

and this on a shaper:

And this on a bandsaw:

Still looking for a dual blade/spacer set up on a table saw.....
Might have to set it up myself and see. bill

The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)

Last edited by woodnthings; 08-19-2011 at 09:06 PM.
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post #14 of 15 Old 08-23-2011, 02:09 PM
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If you want perfect fitting M & T joints...

The best way is to use the miter gauge, fence and your standard blade to cut all four shoulders. Cut the shoulders about half of a 64th deeper than needed for the tenon thickness. The width of the tenon can be adjusted on the table saw using multiple passes or later with chisel or four in hand.

With your tenon jig cut the cheeks of the tenons. The height of the blade should be about 1/64" into the cut that you made using the miter gauge.

Use the right tool for the job.

Rich (Tilting right)
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post #15 of 15 Old 08-27-2011, 06:11 PM
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I just have a home made sled, adjustable wall
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