Cutting tenons on long workpieces - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
 
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post #1 of 15 Old 02-15-2015, 03:42 AM Thread Starter
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Cutting tenons on long workpieces

Consider, if you will, that you need to cut a quarter inch tenon on the end of a 4x52 3/4 plank. How would you go about doing such a thing? Im leaning towards a router and some sort of jig, but im curious to hear how everybody else goes about it

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post #2 of 15 Old 02-15-2015, 06:37 AM
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A router would certainly work alright. If you did this very often you might buy a tongue and groove router bit set. I have two routers permanently set up for this on a router table. It could also be done with a radial arm saw and a dado blade.
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post #3 of 15 Old 02-15-2015, 09:26 AM
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Cut a bunch last weekend with hickory. Sometimes i'll use the dado bladed and sometimes i'll use my flat tooth blade rip blade with miter and have at it. I think mine were 3/4x4x58...
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post #4 of 15 Old 02-15-2015, 11:49 AM
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I add a long wood bar to the miter head and use dado blades on the table saw. The wood bar should extend past the saw table so a block can be attached underneath to support the work piece. For extra long pieces, a support stand of some type is also used. The bar should also extend past the blade so a stop block can be attached to register the cut. Never ever use the miter head with the fence as a stop. It establishes all the necessary components for a severe kickback and is mentioned as a safety hazard in any woodworking text and owners manual I've seen.
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post #5 of 15 Old 02-15-2015, 12:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hammer1 View Post
Never ever use the miter head with the fence as a stop. It establishes all the necessary components for a severe kickback and is mentioned as a safety hazard in any woodworking text and owners manual I've seen.
Its not a through cut and shouldn't be a problem. But I understand if you unfamiliar and the extra support doesn't hurt....
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post #6 of 15 Old 02-15-2015, 12:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rebelwork View Post
Cut a bunch last weekend with hickory. Sometimes i'll use the dado bladed and sometimes i'll use my flat tooth blade rip blade with miter and have at it. I think mine were 3/4x4x58...

+1 Dado blade on the table saw. 52" not long enough to be a problem.

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post #7 of 15 Old 02-15-2015, 12:54 PM
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bump cut tenons

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Originally Posted by Rebelwork View Post
Its not a through cut and shouldn't be a problem. But I understand if you unfamiliar and the extra support doesn't hurt....
I have used this method on occasion. Use the fence as a stop

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LQ76wP1L4hI

The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)

Last edited by woodnthings; 02-15-2015 at 01:34 PM.
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post #8 of 15 Old 02-15-2015, 01:54 PM
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Originally Posted by woodnthings View Post
I have used this method on occasion. Use the fence as a stop

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LQ76wP1L4hI
Love to see him do that with a 1x6 piece of maple with a 1/4" cut. There seems to be no limit of YouTube videos by folks that shouldn't be giving advice.
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post #9 of 15 Old 02-15-2015, 02:08 PM
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You wouldn't cut 1/4" all at once

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Love to see him do that with a 1x6 piece of maple with a 1/4" cut. There seems to be no limit of YouTube videos by folks that shouldn't be giving advice.
I would have no problem cutting the tenon on one side using a blade height of 1/8" with a flat tooth rip blade.
The width is not really relevant in my opinion.

To your point about You Tubers giving advice, this individual is either an Editor or Contributor to Popular Woodworking Magazine, which takes him out of the "idiot" category of youtubers.

There is not a whole lot that can go wrong using that method to make a rabbet on the end of a board 1/4" X 1/4" .... I think I shall go make one myself.

The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)

Last edited by woodnthings; 02-15-2015 at 02:28 PM. Reason: typos
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post #10 of 15 Old 02-15-2015, 02:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hammer1 View Post
Love to see him do that with a 1x6 piece of maple with a 1/4" cut. There seems to be no limit of YouTube videos by folks that shouldn't be giving advice.
There should be several cross cuts before milling out the meat. If its not a hardwood you'll need less, if hardwood you'll crosscut more.

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post #11 of 15 Old 02-15-2015, 02:46 PM
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Exactly, that's how I did this one

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There should be several cross cuts before milling out the meat. If its not a hardwood you'll need less, if hardwood you'll crosscut more.
I used a roller support parallel with the blade to hold the far end of my plank. It was actually 4/4 thick, but I used a 3/8" X 1/4" rabbet. I cross cut the very end and then once in the middle and once with the plank fully against the fence, and bumped it along to remove the small amount of waste that remained. It was perfectly safe, no blade was exposed, no shaking, shimmering or wobbling.
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post #12 of 15 Old 02-15-2015, 02:53 PM Thread Starter
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I use a bump cut on smaller pieces, but ~6 feet long is a little out of my comfort zone when it comes to doing it that way. Good to know I'm not the only one who uses that method though

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post #13 of 15 Old 02-15-2015, 03:51 PM
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OK, then

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I use a bump cut on smaller pieces, but ~6 feet long is a little out of my comfort zone when it comes to doing it that way. Good to know I'm not the only one who uses that method though
Your post stated :

that you need to cut a quarter inch tenon on the end of a 4x52 3/4 plank.

52 inches is 4" more than 4 ft.
Sure a 6 ft, piece may present some issues, but really, what can go wrong. I would use a fenced miter gauge to support the piece from "skewing" at an angle to the blade, but that's about all that would happen. I used the roller parallel to the blade because it supports the work at the correct height and it allows it to easliy slide along the very top of the roller at 90 degrees, an old trick I taught myself....

Some here might say it "shouldn't" be done, others might say it can't be done, I say "I think I can do it"....

The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)

Last edited by woodnthings; 02-15-2015 at 03:53 PM.
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post #14 of 15 Old 02-15-2015, 07:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by woodnthings View Post
Some here might say it "shouldn't" be done, others might say it can't be done, I say "I think I can do it"....
Plenty of us CAN and DO that sort of stuff all the time without issue.

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post #15 of 15 Old 02-16-2015, 12:14 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by woodnthings View Post
Some here might say it "shouldn't" be done, others might say it can't be done, I say "I think I can do it"....
I say that if i have any misgivings about an operation, i find another way to make that operation. Helps keep all my fingers attached. My apologies though, i did make a mistake somewhere converting inches to feet. The longest actual work piece will be in the 5-6 foot range, im not sure where i got 52 inches. This is why i shouldnt be on the internet at 2 in the morning apparently.

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