Cutting a slot in apron for z brackets - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
 
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post #1 of 19 Old 01-08-2013, 07:48 AM Thread Starter
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Cutting a slot in apron for z brackets

For something like this, a 3/32" slot is recommended http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=784 . At the moment I only have a stock blade on my saw (R4512) which I believe is a 1/8" kerf, so the slot it cuts would be probably around 4.5/32" or so. Is that going to produce much too wobbly of a joint between the apron and the table top?

Thanks,

David
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post #2 of 19 Old 01-08-2013, 08:19 AM
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Originally Posted by daviddoria View Post
For something like this, a 3/32" slot is recommended http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=784 . At the moment I only have a stock blade on my saw (R4512) which I believe is a 1/8" kerf, so the slot it cuts would be probably around 4.5/32" or so. Is that going to produce much too wobbly of a joint between the apron and the table top?

Thanks,

David
You could pick up a thin kerf blade. Or, just add a cleat along the inside edge of the apron, that you can drill out and run a fastener up through into the top.
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Cutting a slot in apron for z brackets-cleat.jpg





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post #3 of 19 Old 01-08-2013, 08:21 AM Thread Starter
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Yea, I just didn't want to buy another blade at the moment :)

So how would you attach the cleat to the apron in your drawing?
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post #4 of 19 Old 01-08-2013, 08:26 AM
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Yea, I just didn't want to buy another blade at the moment :)

So how would you attach the cleat to the apron in your drawing?
You could just screw it from the inside to the apron, or glue and screw it, or just glue and clamp.





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post #5 of 19 Old 01-08-2013, 10:06 AM
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Small router bit slotters come in all sorts of slot widths.
WMC, e.g. has a set of small, safe, slotters. For your app. , a 1/16 for one pass + a 1/32" for the second = 3/32"
In my view, in wood, metal and plastic, slop is your enemy. A slip fit is the hard-ware goal.
No hammer fits.
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post #6 of 19 Old 01-08-2013, 11:37 AM Thread Starter
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Good idea Quillman. If you let me know what WMC is, I'll take a look for those :)
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post #7 of 19 Old 01-08-2013, 02:12 PM
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post #8 of 19 Old 01-08-2013, 09:58 PM
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Did someone mention using a biscuit joiner. I often cut the slots with one. i think it cuts an 4/32 slot.
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post #9 of 19 Old 01-08-2013, 11:04 PM
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I don't use the old method for attaching table tops. I find this to be much easier and just as effective. I use shelf pins. Drill a 1/4" hole in the apron about 1/16" lower than center point of the hole in the shelf pin when it's held flush against the table top. Put the shelf pin in and screw a 3/4" screw into the table top. Couldn't be easier.

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post #10 of 19 Old 01-09-2013, 10:33 AM
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Excellent idea.
But the boss could come out of the hole when applied to wide tops.
A 30" top can easily change 1/2"/season.
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post #11 of 19 Old 01-09-2013, 12:15 PM
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Good idea Quillman. If you let me know what WMC is, I'll take a look for those :)
Just need the 3/32" one. One pass.
http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shops...t_slot.html#sf

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post #12 of 19 Old 01-09-2013, 12:38 PM
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Originally Posted by MissionIsMyMission View Post
I don't use the old method for attaching table tops. I find this to be much easier and just as effective. I use shelf pins. Drill a 1/4" hole in the apron about 1/16" lower than center point of the hole in the shelf pin when it's held flush against the table top. Put the shelf pin in and screw a 3/4" screw into the table top. Couldn't be easier.

-
If you screw this tight? how does it allow the top to move. it would work for a plywood top but seems unlikely for the side contacts of a wide solid wood table top.??
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post #13 of 19 Old 01-09-2013, 04:18 PM
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Excellent idea.
But the boss could come out of the hole when applied to wide tops.
A 30" top can easily change 1/2"/season.
I've never in 40 yrs had a solid wood table top "easily change 1/2"/season"
I live in Hot and Humid and Cold and Dry Oklahoma and never had an issue with these.

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If you screw this tight? how does it allow the top to move. it would work for a plywood top but seems unlikely for the side contacts of a wide solid wood table top.??
It's no different than any other attachment. Movement will be side to side generally and these allow for that. The screw is in the top of the table. If there was to be movement length wise the screws are not THAT tight.

Like I said, NEVER had any issues and I've built a LOT of tables.
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post #14 of 19 Old 01-10-2013, 10:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Quillman
Excellent idea.
But the boss could come out of the hole when applied to wide tops.
A 30" top can easily change 1/2"/season.
1/2" of movement in a season?? I'll eat my hat! Lol!!
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post #15 of 19 Old 01-11-2013, 02:35 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MissionIsMyMission View Post
I don't use the old method for attaching table tops. I find this to be much easier and just as effective. I use shelf pins. Drill a 1/4" hole in the apron about 1/16" lower than center point of the hole in the shelf pin when it's held flush against the table top. Put the shelf pin in and screw a 3/4" screw into the table top. Couldn't be easier.

i think youre going the long way around the barn. drilling holes in the apron and then drill out a shelf pin too ??
much easier to use figure 8's. or pocket hole screw it or cleat with an oversize hole.

build it right or not at all
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post #16 of 19 Old 01-12-2013, 12:54 AM
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i think youre going the long way around the barn. drilling holes in the apron and then drill out a shelf pin too ??
much easier to use figure 8's. or pocket hole screw it or cleat with an oversize hole.
You lost me Bob. Why is this any different than the old fashioned cut a slot in the apron and use the z's or make your own. Drilling a 1/4" hole is really easy and all the other methods require screwing a screw into the table top. Using Pocket holes is NOT a good alternative. Does NOT allow for the 1/2" of wood movement

For me this is fast, easy, no special tools required and Works GREAT!
You might give it try and then "Knock It"

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post #17 of 19 Old 01-12-2013, 01:46 AM
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1/2 inch of movement ? how wide is your tabletop ? i have a 38'' wide euro beech top and the most that moves is 1/4 and its outside.

build it right or not at all
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post #18 of 19 Old 01-12-2013, 10:37 PM
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Originally Posted by daviddoria View Post
For something like this, a 3/32" slot is recommended http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=784 . At the moment I only have a stock blade on my saw (R4512) which I believe is a 1/8" kerf, so the slot it cuts would be probably around 4.5/32" or so. Is that going to produce much too wobbly of a joint between the apron and the table top?
David
I guess I don't really understand the slop aspect. I have used z clips often and the primary consideration is to have slightly more distance between the underside of the table top and the top edge of the slot than the height of the clip, so that when you tighten in the screw to the top, it pulls the top down tight. If I read this correctly, you are concerned about the slot being a hair wider than the thickness of the metal clip. If that is correct, it's really not an issue because the screw will pull the clip tight towards the top, as long as your slot isn't too close to the top. Or am I completely misunderstanding the OP?
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post #19 of 19 Old 01-13-2013, 10:26 AM
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One chart (http://workshoppages.com/WS/Articles...ent-Charts.pdf) has an example of a 2 foot panel changing shape (in a season) from -3/16" to a + 9/32", a total delta of .468".
And that's for flat sawn oak. Given a random selection of radially and tangentially sawn stock, more typical in a 30" panel, the width changes are handily >1/2". I'd allow my hold down hardware at least 5/8" of slip/slop for a 30" panel.
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