Cutting out dovetails with a coping saw - Page 2 - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
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post #21 of 27 Old 09-03-2012, 05:14 PM
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Before you do anything get your self a very fine jap saw . Cut your pins first 1in 8 for hardwood 1in 5 for soft .mark ya pins off and cut ya tails you need to use a marking gauge to scribe to bottom of the tails. Once you've cut down the angle with ya jap saw to ya scrib you can place ya fret saw blade in the slot and quickly turn and saw at the same time to run parallel with ya scibe lline Once ya little triangle is removed you'll be left with just a scribe line at the bottom of the joint wish can now be cleaned up with a sharp chisel . Yor chisel can slot into ya scribe work from both sides so to a avoid any breakout . Marbles. Chisels have to much carbon in the steel for a dove tail chisel ya need something like a Robert sorbay more sharpening but one hell of an edge . I've cut more doves by hand than you can imagine secret , lap , through , the lot if you need any help just reply . Cheers!
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post #22 of 27 Old 09-11-2012, 12:51 AM Thread Starter
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I got a fret saw. You guys were right, it's easier to guide the fret saw. Though I'm still having a hell of a time cleaning out the bottom of the waste.

My chisels are quite sharp (thank you Work Sharp!) but I simply cannot chop straight down through 3/4 inch of hardwood with my chisel, even using a deadblow hammer or wooden mallet. Trust me, I've tried. Am I missing something?
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post #23 of 27 Old 09-11-2012, 04:53 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Purrmaster
I got a fret saw. You guys were right, it's easier to guide the fret saw. Though I'm still having a hell of a time cleaning out the bottom of the waste.

My chisels are quite sharp (thank you Work Sharp!) but I simply cannot chop straight down through 3/4 inch of hardwood with my chisel, even using a deadblow hammer or wooden mallet. Trust me, I've tried. Am I missing something?
Hi there try a smaller chisel if you used a marking gauge you have no trouble simply use the cut of the fibres as the guide but don't take to much out at once. As for a sharp chisel make shaw your using a chisel with not too much carbon in the steel these chisels hold an edge but you can't get em that sharp!
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post #24 of 27 Old 09-11-2012, 06:48 PM Thread Starter
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I'll try again when I get home but I have not been able to drive a chisel through that much wood. In fact, with 3/4" inch thick boards I'd be pounding the chisel past the bevel. And when pushing down with a chisel the wood is cut, at first. But once I get a certain depth down it starts to compress the wood fibers. The only way I could think of for just chopping out a chunk is with a mortise chisel and I don't have any (though I may get the Narex mortise chisels soon).
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post #25 of 27 Old 09-11-2012, 07:39 PM
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After making a vertical cut with the chisel, then take a horizontal cut to clear out the wood. Then repeat vertical/horizontal cuts. Don't cut all the way through or you will chip out on the back side of the board. I usually go a little over half way and then flip the board and work from the other side.

"Good Behavior is the last refuge of mediocrity" -- Henry S. Haskins
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post #26 of 27 Old 09-12-2012, 04:08 AM Thread Starter
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So you make a vertical cut and then horizontal cuts? That sounds a bit more doable. I assume the horizontal cuts are to pare layers of the wood away? Shearing it off?

Thanks for being so patient with me, guys.
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post #27 of 27 Old 09-12-2012, 10:48 AM
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Originally Posted by Purrmaster View Post
So you make a vertical cut and then horizontal cuts? That sounds a bit more doable. I assume the horizontal cuts are to pare layers of the wood away? Shearing it off?

Thanks for being so patient with me, guys.
That's right

"Good Behavior is the last refuge of mediocrity" -- Henry S. Haskins
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