Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Colorado Springs
Ok, you were answering my questions while I was posting.
I only know how to do this on a table saw.
I once had to build a triangular kiosk that was about 6 ft. tall. The three corners had to, of course, be beveled and glued up to be the "posts" or stiles. It was an equilateral triangle, so each corner = 60 degrees and so each cut needed to be 30 degrees. Confusion sets in with the 90 degree math for cutting a 60 degree angle that's actually 30 degrees because of the reference angle of the blade to the table
This is further confused by the fact that some table saws treat a blade square to the table as "0" and some table saws treat it as "90".
Here is how I did it. I built a 7 foot sled out of MDF (stable, flat and cheap). The side that would run against the fence had an inverted "U" that straddled the fence to keep it from wandering. I did this so that I could stand the board on its EDGE (with the saw set for a 30 degree cut) and run it through the saw while it was clamped to the sled. That provided stability to get a good, smooth cut and it made it safe since my hands were away from the blade. By the board being captured by the sled which was captured by the fence, kickback was prevented.
In your case, you need to figure each of the angles for each of the edges to figure out which of your pieces need to be run face to the table and which need to be run face to the fence and what the angles for each of the pieces are. You must bisect the angles first so that you know the angle for the edge(s) of each piece.
I suggest after you bisect each of the angles you then make a RIGHT TRIANGLE cardboard or hardboard template for each edge. If you do this, each of your triangle templates will give you a blade set-up template for both table to blade and blade to fence.
Use the templates to run scrap stock samples to validate your calculations and measurements before you use the good stuff.
Last edited by RogerInColorado; 02-05-2013 at 02:58 PM.