correcting a table top glue up mistake - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
 
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post #1 of 7 Old 04-01-2013, 03:39 PM Thread Starter
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correcting a table top glue up mistake

I have been working on a new dining room table for my family off and on for a few months. Nothing fancy, it is a 60+" square table to seat 8 people. It is made with primarily with cherry with Peruvian walnut picture framing the top.

Well because of clamps and a bit of indecisiveness I decided to glue The table in two panels. After gluing 2 panels together I realized I needed about 4 more inches so that my table would be at least 60". So I planed and jointed a 4" board to glue in between the two panels while adding the outside walnut. I set up my clamps and spread glue then clamped. What I didn't realize was that the panels had bowed a little and did not glue the last 9-12" on each end. So it is glued ~5 feet in the middle and no glue as you reach the end. Obviously this won't do.

What would you suggest to fix the problem. My gut reaction is to cut the top on each side of the problem board then reglue after dry fitting this time. But I wanted to know if there are other options.

I'll try and send pictures when I get home to help with explanation.
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post #2 of 7 Old 04-01-2013, 04:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by panhandler View Post
My gut reaction is to cut the top on each side of the problem board then reglue after dry fitting this time.

Yep.

Also, are you wanting to glue a solid walnut frame around a solid cherry table top?

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OH, wait a minute ............Yep!.............That's what he said!

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post #3 of 7 Old 04-01-2013, 05:04 PM
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Listen to you gut. Any thing else will be a life long patching job. Any time you make a glue up, whether it's a little panel for a cabinet door or a table top, dry fit the joint and make sure the parts fit well before spreading glue. Sometimes the joints will fit pretty close and a lot of people will just use extra pressure on the clamps and force it together. The problem is the amount of pressure it takes to force it together is how much pressure the wood is putting on it trying to pull it apart later.
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post #4 of 7 Old 04-02-2013, 08:49 PM
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I would think a 60 inch wide solid cherry table would change in dimension by abou 1/2 an inch from winter to summer. How are you going to attach a walnut frame?
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post #5 of 7 Old 04-02-2013, 11:27 PM Thread Starter
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Great question midland I, I realized I didn't do a very good job explaining what I am doing with the top. The top is cherry boards glued up into a panel with wh outside boards being Peruvian walnut then walnut breadboard ends.
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post #6 of 7 Old 04-03-2013, 10:00 AM
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Cutting along the glue line should give you surfaces on both sides that will fit perfectly together as long as you have a sharp smooth cutting blade.

Wise men speak because they have something to say; fools because they have to say something -Plato

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post #7 of 7 Old 04-12-2013, 04:32 PM
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Ripping and rejoining is the way to go.
I am still interested that you are comfortable with a 60 inch breadboard. I am just finishing a cherry table that is 36 inches wide at the ends. I calculated a .33 inch change of dimension by next summer. I built the breadboards a bit long as the table is probably at its driest now.
If I wanted to go that wide , I would use shop made veneer ,1/8 inch, and make a 3-4 foot panel with Baltic birch and the cherry top and bottom. 3-6 inch solid wood sides would make the wood movement almost a non issue. The darker frame could be almost glued solid?
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