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post #1 of 7 Old 12-09-2014, 10:13 PM Thread Starter
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Chair

I know I am asking a lot of questions as of late, but I am really enjoying all the woodworking I am doing.. My question though is what is the best way to join 3- 2x6 I just got out of a barn. I will obviously joint and plane them. I'm am wanting to use this as a seat for a chair I'm designing... So the joints will have to hold up to someone sitting on them. Would a straight glue up be fine or should I run a spine or what?
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post #2 of 7 Old 12-09-2014, 10:26 PM
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2x6's aren't intended to glue together. For one they have rounded corners. The best thing to do would be to cut the 2x6's oversized in length and run the edges through a jointer to make the joints fit well. Then they could just be glued together as they are. Once glued together then cut the part to a finished width and length.
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post #3 of 7 Old 12-09-2014, 11:02 PM Thread Starter
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I say 2x6... In reality it 8/4 oak
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post #4 of 7 Old 12-10-2014, 12:05 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Buckbuster31
I say 2x6... In reality it 8/4 oak

That's even better but his responce still applies.

Make sure you have good square corners on the faces you'll be jointing.

I've done just glued joints for things like this and haven't had a problem yet.

But the safer way would be to use a spline or biscuit jointer.

Will the chair be outside?
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post #5 of 7 Old 12-10-2014, 04:33 AM
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Glue is fine, no spline

Quote:
Originally Posted by Buckbuster31 View Post
I know I am asking a lot of questions as of late, but I am really enjoying all the woodworking I am doing.. My question though is what is the best way to join 3- 2x6 I just got out of a barn. I will obviously joint and plane them. I'm am wanting to use this as a seat for a chair I'm designing... So the joints will have to hold up to someone sitting on them. Would a straight glue up be fine or should I run a spine or what?
A spline would be helpful IF the boards are long, say over 3 ft. Splines don't add strength unless the grain runs across the joint. Splines help in aligning the surfaces, but are only as good as the accuracy to one of the faces when you make them. This is why you joint the edges and plane the surfaces first. This makes all the thickness identical for easier face alignment.

FYI, to avoid confusion between softwood construction lumber. 2 X 6's etc and hardwood lumber 8/4, always use the proper designation. Construction 2 X 6's etc will not have straight and true edges and they may be rounded. Hardwood lumber will be rough sawn and need jointing and planing regardless. Any wood removed from a older barn is likely to need jointing and planing regardless whether it's hard or soft...who knows what wood they may have used. Barnwood depends on where in the country it was built because they would have used a local species.

Post your location because that helps with certain advice. Good luck on your chair and post up some photos as you go along.

The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)

Last edited by woodnthings; 12-10-2014 at 04:37 AM.
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post #6 of 7 Old 12-10-2014, 07:28 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve Neul View Post
2x6's aren't intended to glue together. For one they have rounded corners. The best thing to do would be to cut the 2x6's oversized in length and run the edges through a jointer to make the joints fit well. Then they could just be glued together as they are. Once glued together then cut the part to a finished width and length.
" I will obviously joint and plane them. "

George
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post #7 of 7 Old 12-10-2014, 07:45 AM Thread Starter
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Thank you, George. And yes, in kentucky it is mostly oak and poplar barns
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