Can this table be made stable? - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
post #1 of 12 Old 12-14-2012, 02:28 PM Thread Starter
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2012
Posts: 3
View Oreke's Photo Album My Photos
Can this table be made stable?

Hello,

I would like to make something similar to the table shown in the attached pictures. How can I connect the legs to the table top so that it's stable and doesn't sway side-to-side across the length.

In the pics, I don't see any L-shaped brackets or screws? Is it possible to make that table sturdy?

Thanks,
oreke
Attached Images
    
Oreke is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 12 Old 12-14-2012, 02:34 PM
(clever wood pun here)
 
Phaedrus's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Ames, IA
Posts: 979
View Phaedrus's Photo Album My Photos
Tight fitting through tenons would help, but the design doesn't do much to resist racking.

Sent from my DROID RAZR MAXX using Woodworking Talk
Phaedrus is offline  
post #3 of 12 Old 12-14-2012, 04:01 PM
Senior Member
 
Dave Paine's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Eastern PA
Posts: 7,222
View Dave Paine's Photo Album My Photos
Nice clean design. Looks good in a picture.

I would not want to have this in my home though. As Phaedrus said, it will be difficult to prevent racking.

If I were building this, I would change the design and would add a stretcher between the legs attached to the top of the table. This would not get in the way of anyone's feet, but would make this a lot more resistant to racking.
Dave Paine is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #4 of 12 Old 12-14-2012, 04:47 PM
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Posts: 26,059
View Steve Neul's Photo Album My Photos
I believe I would make two or three 1/4" steel plates 3" wide and about 2" longer than the leg is thick and screw it to the leg and then to the top. I would mortise it through the leg so it is flush.
Steve Neul is offline  
post #5 of 12 Old 12-14-2012, 04:55 PM
Log dog
 
Dominick's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Northeast illinois
Posts: 7,935
View Dominick's Photo Album My Photos
Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve Neul
I believe I would make two or three 1/4" steel plates 3" wide and about 2" longer than the leg is thick and screw it to the leg and then to the top. I would mortise it through the leg so it is flush.
That's what I would do. It's how this hatch cover table is. It does have a slight racking in it, but adding a stretcher like someone has suggested would help.

Can this table be made stable?-image-2118345829.jpg

When it's rustic......it's rustic
Dominick is offline  
post #6 of 12 Old 12-14-2012, 06:21 PM
where's my table saw?
 
woodnthings's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: SE, Michigan
Posts: 27,596
View woodnthings's Photo Album My Photos
If I HAD to make it exactly that way .....

Here's what I'd do. I'd make a mortise in the under side of the top as deep as possible without going through the top surface and as long as possible without extending beyond the legs and then make a similar mortise in the legs, maybe a bit deeper.
Then I'd fit a spline or tenon into the top and glue it and finally glue the legs to the top and the tenon. I'm relying on the tenon to prevent racking and the glue to hold things together.... it ain't a great way to make wood table legs at 90 degrees with no other attachments or fasteners, but it looks cool. Minimalist Design sorta.
I might even mortise the entire leg section into the top and eliminate the tenon that way. In fact, I like that idea way better.

If I were allowed to have plugs in the top surface then counter bored lag screws and washers would be my next choice. I would probably use a different darker wood for the plugs and emphasize them rather than "hide" them.

The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)
woodnthings is online now  
post #7 of 12 Old 12-14-2012, 06:35 PM
Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Louisville, KY burbs
Posts: 85
View jeffsw6's Photo Album My Photos
Quote:
Originally Posted by Oreke View Post
In the pics, I don't see any L-shaped brackets or screws? Is it possible to make that table sturdy?
There could be brackets which are simply hidden.

You can't tell if the legs might be hollow just by looking at a picture of the finished table. For that matter, there could be slots cut into the inside (invisible) of the lumber and metal L or T brackets inserted into them before anything is glued.

Not saying this is how the table in the picture is made, but there are creative ways to hide a bracket if you really want to. You can do cool things with a slot-cutting router bit and a plunge to get the cut started, like having a dado slot with stops at both ends.
jeffsw6 is offline  
post #8 of 12 Old 12-15-2012, 01:25 AM
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Oklahoma
Posts: 298
View mveach's Photo Album My Photos
1/4" strap recessed into the bottom of the table top with 4 holes drilled and tapped for 3/8" all thread. drill holes all the way through the legs bottom to top. counter sink for washers and nuts. run all thread through legs into top. use large washers and nuts in counter bore to tighten the legs. use the same holes to attach non marring feet.

LIB MR DUCKS
mveach is offline  
post #9 of 12 Old 12-15-2012, 08:13 PM Thread Starter
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2012
Posts: 3
View Oreke's Photo Album My Photos
Thanks for all the suggestions. It seems there are a few things I can try to do. The easiest thing may be to do the darker plugs on top of the table, almost as accents. It also seems like drilling all the way through the legs and tightening the legs to 1/4" steel under the table would be pretty sturdy. How would you drill all the way through the legs? Maybe make a couple of channels on two pieces before gluing them together?
Oreke is offline  
post #10 of 12 Old 12-15-2012, 11:10 PM
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Oklahoma
Posts: 298
View mveach's Photo Album My Photos
that would probably be the easiest. you can drill using a 18" bit from both ends or a bit extender from one end. but doing it that way, you would to make a jig to align the bit.

LIB MR DUCKS
mveach is offline  
post #11 of 12 Old 12-15-2012, 11:50 PM
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Posts: 26,059
View Steve Neul's Photo Album My Photos
Quote:
Originally Posted by Oreke View Post
Thanks for all the suggestions. It seems there are a few things I can try to do. The easiest thing may be to do the darker plugs on top of the table, almost as accents. It also seems like drilling all the way through the legs and tightening the legs to 1/4" steel under the table would be pretty sturdy. How would you drill all the way through the legs? Maybe make a couple of channels on two pieces before gluing them together?
The idea I had was to mortice the steel plates into the leg like a hinge and then just screw the legs to the table top from the underneath side.
Attached Images
 
Steve Neul is offline  
post #12 of 12 Old 12-19-2012, 01:40 PM Thread Starter
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2012
Posts: 3
View Oreke's Photo Album My Photos
Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve Neul
The idea I had was to mortice the steel plates into the leg like a hinge and then just screw the legs to the table top from the underneath side.
Yes, thank you very much for the drawing. That is definitely one of the methods I am seriously considering ( haven't started, yet :) ). The question I was asking earlier was about the suggestion to use all thread all the way through the legs to connect to a tapped metal plate under the table. Very similar to your method, except for the connection of the legs to the plate.
Oreke is offline  
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in










Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Linear Mode



Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
thin boards/stable table top help?? Catalina Design & Plans 0 04-11-2012 10:44 AM
Has anyone made table saw before arand18 General Woodworking Discussion 3 09-16-2011 08:03 PM
Easy and stable workbench? B0bEIII Design & Plans 2 03-15-2010 07:32 PM
ideas to make dust extractor hose stable shaun Woodturning 3 04-26-2008 05:57 PM
stable door martin p Joinery 4 11-11-2007 11:35 AM

Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome