Building oak front door - Page 5 - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
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post #81 of 128 Old 08-16-2009, 11:26 PM
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I made my router fence so that it doesn't need to be sacrificial. It slides in and out so that you can close the fence in around any bit.
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post #82 of 128 Old 08-17-2009, 04:06 AM
where's my table saw?
 
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That is way clever!

And it looks very tidy as well. Great idea. bill

The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)
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post #83 of 128 Old 08-17-2009, 07:52 AM Thread Starter
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Should I put the wood outside until i'm ready to work with it, then bring it inside to square it up, then put it outside again, then bring it back in to router it and assemble it? Or should I just keep it inside like i've been doing for the past week? How long should it acclimate to the shop?
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post #84 of 128 Old 08-18-2009, 06:58 PM
 
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for the door i would consider using mdf for a core and have thinner wood on the inside and outside

the doors sides are going to be constantly fighting each other because of different environments, you simply dont want a solid piece of wood to go through that.
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post #85 of 128 Old 08-20-2009, 06:57 AM Thread Starter
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So I guess that I should leave the wood inside based on the replies?
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post #86 of 128 Old 08-20-2009, 07:08 AM
where's my table saw?
 
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YUP, based on the replies

I detect a bit of sarcasm here? You should always let your wood acclimate to the shop and then assemble it as soon as possible after machining. It will want to move slightly even then. Are you starting the door yet? Router table finished? Fence done and mounted? Pictures? bill

The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)
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post #87 of 128 Old 08-20-2009, 10:33 AM
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Steve,

I know I'm a little late to this party, but we offer bit sets for Entry and Passage doors that make full tenons. The ones you bought will work for making the profiles and copes but you will need another step to make tenons. Check these out:

http://www.freudtools.com/p-208-two-...r-bit-set.aspx



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post #88 of 128 Old 08-20-2009, 09:33 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Charles M View Post
Steve,

I know I'm a little late to this party, but we offer bit sets for Entry and Passage doors that make full tenons. The ones you bought will work for making the profiles and copes but you will need another step to make tenons. Check these out:

http://www.freudtools.com/p-208-two-...r-bit-set.aspx



The set I have seems to be fine... please explain.
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post #89 of 128 Old 08-20-2009, 09:41 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by woodnthings View Post
I detect a bit of sarcasm here? You should always let your wood acclimate to the shop and then assemble it as soon as possible after machining. It will want to move slightly even then. Are you starting the door yet? Router table finished? Fence done and mounted? Pictures? bill
A little sarcasm yeah

I've been working fulltime lately and my shop is getting expanded by about 10x15' (knocking old brick wall down - digging 2 feet dirt - [they had (2) 24' conveyer belts taking dirt out] - pouring cement etc).. so I havn't done anything yet. Just letting the wood acclimate to the shop. Will probably start the week after next. Very busy lately.

I don't want to rush into a project like this to fast. I only have one shot

Last edited by Steve G.; 08-20-2009 at 09:49 PM.
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post #90 of 128 Old 08-20-2009, 11:12 PM
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"i've only got one shot"

Sounds to me like by the time you've bought/built all your tools and shop, you should be going into the door making business!
In which case, you could make another one in a year after you've accumulated enough extra scrap!

... no sarcasm here
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post #91 of 128 Old 08-20-2009, 11:32 PM
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Danxt, I like your fence and I'm glad you posted the pictures. I wanted to make one very simular but started to think I would need actual trac. You have showed me otherwise. Do you or anyone else know if you can buy or make router plate inserts. I bought 3/8" plexiglas to make router plates but would need inserts for the different bit sizes.

Again nice fence.
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post #92 of 128 Old 08-21-2009, 05:44 AM
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Richard,the trouble with homemade router plates

Is that the inserts are difficult to make, one for each size of bit. You end up making a different plate for each size and then have to change it out each time. That's why I suggested a commericially made plate here. The inserts just twist in and lock. This link has both: http://www.ptreeusa.com/router_list.htm
Their part no. 1075 is temp out of stock, but very reasonable.You could always take a pre-made plate larger than your table opening and cut it down to fit rather than try to adapt the inserts somehow to fit a homemade plate. There have been times I just needed a larger bit for one operation and had to change the insert back and forth. If you are running one size bit for hours at a time, then it's not that big a deal to change out the entire plate, but I personally wouldn't do it that way. These plates are reasonable enough, have the leveling screws built in and the twist lock insert holes and last a lifetime.
I suppose you could, using a combination of different size hole saws, make your own inserts, but it seems like a lot of work, maybe requiring a lathe. So, you're back to a different plate for each size bit, remove the router, unscrew the router, screw on a new plate for that size bit, etc.... JMO bill

1075 $29.95
Inverting your router in a router table allows for safer and more versatile operations. Our deluxe router table insert is made from high strength plastic. Large 9"x12"x3/8"(1/4" lip) design accommodates heavy routers.
Snap out rings allow for openings of 3-1/8", 2-5/8" & 1-1/4" for a closer match to your router bit. The deluxe router table insert includes a shoulder pin for freehand work and magnets to help hold the insert into your router table. Threaded Allen wrench inserts in each corner help you level and easily adjust the router.

Here's their main catalog page:
http://www.ptreeusa.com/online_catalog.htm
Woodcraft also has inserts:
http://www.woodcraft.com/Family/2020536/2020536.aspx
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The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)

Last edited by woodnthings; 08-21-2009 at 06:12 AM.
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post #93 of 128 Old 08-21-2009, 07:06 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Danxt View Post
"i've only got one shot"

Sounds to me like by the time you've bought/built all your tools and shop, you should be going into the door making business!
In which case, you could make another one in a year after you've accumulated enough extra scrap!

... no sarcasm here
I ment one shot to get this door right... i'll probably build more doors in the future. I don't build door only - the equipment I have can be used for any type of woodworking.
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post #94 of 128 Old 08-21-2009, 07:11 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by woodnthings View Post
Is that the inserts are difficult to make, one for each size of bit. You end up making a different plate for each size and then have to change it out each time. That's why I suggested a commericially made plate here. The inserts just twist in and lock. This link has both: http://www.ptreeusa.com/router_list.htm
Their part no. 1075 is temp out of stock, but very reasonable.You could always take a pre-made plate larger than your table opening and cut it down to fit rather than try to adapt the inserts somehow to fit a homemade plate. There have been times I just needed a larger bit for one operation and had to change the insert back and forth. If you are running one size bit for hours at a time, then it's not that big a deal to change out the entire plate, but I personally wouldn't do it that way. These plates are reasonable enough, have the leveling screws built in and the twist lock insert holes and last a lifetime.
I suppose you could, using a combination of different size hole saws, make your own inserts, but it seems like a lot of work, maybe requiring a lathe. So, you're back to a different plate for each size bit, remove the router, unscrew the router, screw on a new plate for that size bit, etc.... JMO bill

1075 $29.95
Inverting your router in a router table allows for safer and more versatile operations. Our deluxe router table insert is made from high strength plastic. Large 9"x12"x3/8"(1/4" lip) design accommodates heavy routers.
Snap out rings allow for openings of 3-1/8", 2-5/8" & 1-1/4" for a closer match to your router bit. The deluxe router table insert includes a shoulder pin for freehand work and magnets to help hold the insert into your router table. Threaded Allen wrench inserts in each corner help you level and easily adjust the router.

Here's their main catalog page:
http://www.ptreeusa.com/online_catalog.htm
Woodcraft also has inserts:
http://www.woodcraft.com/Family/2020536/2020536.aspx

I made 2 plates when I did mine, this way I have one for the raised panel and one for the rail and stile For me it won't be a big deal because i'm not switching between bits alot. I'm cutting all the stile, then rail, then raised panels.
But I could see how it would be helpful in saving time for other work - in fact I cut my inserts exactly the same size as the one's woodnthings has been advertising here for a while... so I could upgrade in the future.
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post #95 of 128 Old 08-21-2009, 08:11 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rrbrown View Post
Danxt, I like your fence and I'm glad you posted the pictures. I wanted to make one very simular but started to think I would need actual trac. You have showed me otherwise. Do you or anyone else know if you can buy or make router plate inserts. I bought 3/8" plexiglas to make router plates but would need inserts for the different bit sizes.

Again nice fence.
rrbrown:
If one were so inclined, I think you could use the same idea from the fence and apply it to the table.
1. you would need to add a second layer onto the table. The second layer would be made of four pieces 1) back end of the table 2) 2 pieces that are about 3-4" wide that can slide in and out to the bit and 3) the front end of the table... maybe with a miter gauge slot.
2. there are problems here, because when your table gets too thick, you can't get your bit high enough for some things
3. solution: arrange the router so that it actually mounts to the underside of the front and back section of the upper table top. Then the router would be no different relative to the table top than it is now.

come to think of it... if i were going to add this feature to the table i've already built, i would add a piece of 1/2" ply UNDER the existing top, and rip my existing top into 3 pieces. The new piece of 1/2" ply would need a BIG hole cut out of the middle of it for the fixed base to fit through.
hmmmmm..... maybe i'll add that to my list.
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post #96 of 128 Old 08-22-2009, 09:01 AM Thread Starter
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Since this will be an outside door, should I not let the wood acclimate to the outside then cut and machine and assemble it outside?
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post #97 of 128 Old 09-09-2009, 06:57 PM Thread Starter
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Almost done

I know I know, it's nothing special, it's a very simple setup, I wasn't going to use aluminum but since my dad ordered it anyway I used it. I'm going to make another fence for the raised panel bit... will probably use danxt's technique with that one.

Forgot to mention, I started ripping, planing & squaring up some of the stock for the door... hopefully i'll have it done by saturday night :)

Last edited by Steve G.; 09-09-2009 at 06:59 PM.
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post #98 of 128 Old 09-10-2009, 09:32 PM Thread Starter
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Started squaring up the stile's... it's not to final size, but i'm practicing getting the wood square so I don't mess up an $80 piece of wood when it comes time to do the finishing cut :)





The stupid HF roller kept falling over easy remedy nonethless


I much prefer the ridgid stand
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post #99 of 128 Old 10-02-2009, 08:05 AM Thread Starter
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Have all the wood for stiles & rails squared up, stiles are routered, i'm workin' on the rails now. Pics to come!

Btw, I need to order the raised panel bit, does anyone know of a good place to buy it, good brand?
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post #100 of 128 Old 10-02-2009, 08:43 AM Thread Starter
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