Building oak front door - Page 4 - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
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post #61 of 128 Old 08-11-2009, 11:05 AM Thread Starter
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Got the legs jointed and planed square

Dadoed the legs, yes I did mess up on one of them (will fill in with thin wood) - i didn't use my dado blade on the TS so it took me longer than expected to make the dadoes

Lined the legs up with the table top (haven't cut legs to length yet, does 33" tall for the whole table including wheels sound good?)

Made the tenon joints for the first cross piece.

I'll have to finish the rest of them tonight and glue everything up tomorrow... Critique?

Last edited by Steve G.; 08-11-2009 at 11:12 AM.
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post #62 of 128 Old 08-11-2009, 02:29 PM
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Dont put wheels on it, you don't want a 3h roughter moving when you use it. I have 100lbs of concrete in the bottom of mine, i can still drag it around if i need to.
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post #63 of 128 Old 08-11-2009, 06:05 PM Thread Starter
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The wheels are lockable... still no good?
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post #64 of 128 Old 08-11-2009, 09:48 PM
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A 3 horse rougher will move lockable wheels, when your hand is 1/2" from blade spinning at 30,000rpm you REALLY donít want that table moving. Trust me, router tables need to be heavy and stationary.
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post #65 of 128 Old 08-12-2009, 06:35 AM Thread Starter
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Understood, no wheels now.
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post #66 of 128 Old 08-13-2009, 08:18 PM
where's my table saw?
 
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Rockler has the Mast R Lift plus on sale

Was $289.99 now $199.99. Here's the link:
http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?p...21927&pn=21927
FYI Steve, bill

The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)
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post #67 of 128 Old 08-13-2009, 10:18 PM Thread Starter
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I glued it all up this morning... forgot to take the camera to the shop so pics will have to wait til' tomorrow morning!
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post #68 of 128 Old 08-14-2009, 06:29 PM Thread Starter
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I'm going to add a bottom piece and doors eventually

Last edited by Steve G.; 08-14-2009 at 06:33 PM.
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post #69 of 128 Old 08-14-2009, 06:50 PM Thread Starter
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post #70 of 128 Old 08-14-2009, 07:28 PM
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False bottom with 100lb bag of mortar in it and you are good to go.

In all reality it is looking really good. I rarely take that much time building something for my shop, normally I need a tool or jig and am behind and just build something an hour or less with whatever is lying around. Good work that table should last as long and you wish to work with wood.
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post #71 of 128 Old 08-14-2009, 09:48 PM Thread Starter
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I don't take that much time either usually, just thought that it would be good practice for future projects.
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post #72 of 128 Old 08-15-2009, 10:25 AM
where's my table saw?
 
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Steve a router table is not a jig

Take all the time necessary to make a great tool that you will be happy with and proud to use or show. After seeing your photos, I would suggest a small addition which would be to fill in the dados under the bottom. Otherwise nice work and substantial.
You can still add a bottom shelf through the opening as you probably intend. Another shelf should go in at the same time and can be raised up on cleats for storage or as a dust separator. Doors on the lower portion possibly. Maybe a drawer on the lower would work better? Just some thoughts. bill

The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)

Last edited by woodnthings; 08-16-2009 at 01:32 PM.
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post #73 of 128 Old 08-16-2009, 11:35 AM
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I want to watch this thread, but don't know how to subscribe without posting... so...

keep up the good work!
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post #74 of 128 Old 08-16-2009, 02:28 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by woodnthings View Post
Take all the time necessary to make a great tool that you will be happy with and proud to use or show. After seeing your photos, I would suggest a small addition which would be to fill in the dados under the bottom. Otherwise nice work and substantial.
You can still add a bottom shelf through the opening as you probably intend. Another shelf should go in at the same time and can be raised up on cleats for storage or as a dust separator. Doors on the lower portion possibly. Maybe a drawer on the lower would work better? Just some thoughts. bill
I was thinking of putting pieces of wood to fill in the slots... one of those things where you say "i'll do it sometime".
I was going to put a bottom and doors on it but i'm second guessing myself now because of the potential heat and saw dust build up - i'll be using a dust collector but that won't catch everything. The heat is my major concern though.

What is your guys advice about this?

thanks
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post #75 of 128 Old 08-16-2009, 03:12 PM
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in a cabinet that big, if you are running any DC in the cabinet I don't see how it could get any hotter than using the router in open air.

On the other hand...
the Bosch router table is totally enclosed underneath... someone at Bosch probably did some testing to make sure it was ok... but I couldn't say for sure. Mine is just open air under the table top right now, but sometime (when I have the right scraps lying around) I intend to close it in.
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post #76 of 128 Old 08-16-2009, 04:41 PM Thread Starter
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Cutting the rough hole



Routing out the insert pocket



Got a new toy to make the holes in the plexiglass to mount the router


Got another new toy to round the edges off for the insert - atleast for the second insert... the first one I did by hand.



Precision at it's max - there is only 256th of an inch of play in that plexi glass going lengthways and absolutely none parallel to the fence.

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post #77 of 128 Old 08-16-2009, 04:51 PM Thread Starter
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Just don't ask me how long it took to router the insert

Last edited by Steve G.; 08-16-2009 at 04:54 PM.
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post #78 of 128 Old 08-16-2009, 05:06 PM Thread Starter
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For my fence, should I get a 4x4 angle aluminum or use 2x4 hardwood like illustrated.


(Proportions for 2x4's not exact)
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post #79 of 128 Old 08-16-2009, 05:29 PM
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Steve way too much

Overkill on the fence dimesions. Have your ever seen The Router Worskhop with Bob and Rick? www.routerforums.com They use a pivot at one end of the fence with a slot and locking knob at the other end. That's all you need for in and out to the cutter. Router table fences need not be parallel to the sides. It's an "L" shaped deal like you show but made from 1/2 " or 3/4" stock, hardwood, MDO, or plywood with a cut out for the cutter plus a 1/4" on either side, but tall enough to provide stability. You can even make sacrificial fences for particular cutters. Don't fall in love with the fence. Use it like a jig, not a tool. You can get a shop vac port to collect the dust right at the cutter. The more dust you collect off the cutter the less you will have to worry about underneath. I don't use a DC under my router table, just the high velocity shop vac and it works great.

bill

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post #80 of 128 Old 08-16-2009, 10:22 PM Thread Starter
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A little off topic - or I guess it's really ON topic... out of these 4 bits listed on this one link at the bottom - wich one would you get for doing a raised panel 1 1/4'' thick for the 1 3/4" door?

I was thinking the one w/ 1/2" for the H

http://woodworker.com/fullpres.asp?P...0&LARGEVIEW=ON

If anybody knows of a better bang for the buck or even better quality place please enlighten me... I've used woodworker suppy before and liked them so I was going to get my stuff from them.
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