Building oak front door - Page 3 - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
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post #41 of 128 Old 08-06-2009, 11:23 AM Thread Starter
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Would there be any reason I couldn't use this with a 3hp router to make the door?
I ordered them yesterday.
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post #42 of 128 Old 08-07-2009, 10:55 PM
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I have been using a 3 horse porter cable as a shaper for the last 6 years, a shaper is better but the big router works. Just build yourself a good flat table, and do multiple passes.

Good luck.
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post #43 of 128 Old 08-08-2009, 07:55 AM Thread Starter
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I have been using a 3 horse porter cable as a shaper for the last 6 years, a shaper is better but the big router works. Just build yourself a good flat table, and do multiple passes.

Good luck.
Thanks for that, i'm already starting to build one this morning. Should 28"x36" be big enough for a router table? I'm doubling the ply wood and adding formica, then dropping 1/2" plexi in the middle to hold the router.
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post #44 of 128 Old 08-08-2009, 11:14 AM
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I would build it longer than that, mine is 24x36 and I really wish I had better support when running longer stuff. I would build the table at least 24X48; you will be running a lot of really long pieces that need to be held dead flat. Also run some bracing oak or something on edge to help support the weight of the table underneath, my top is only waxed 1/2 mdf, it was all I had back then, but I latticed 6" oak on edge around the perimeter and throughout the underside of the table, the table is ugly but still flat, remember that roughter weighs like 25-30lbs, a lot of weight for a table.

I am off to walk a house this morning; I will post up pictures of my table later if you like.
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post #45 of 128 Old 08-08-2009, 12:06 PM Thread Starter
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I would build it longer than that, mine is 24x36 and I really wish I had better support when running longer stuff. I would build the table at least 24X48; you will be running a lot of really long pieces that need to be held dead flat. Also run some bracing oak or something on edge to help support the weight of the table underneath, my top is only waxed 1/2 mdf, it was all I had back then, but I latticed 6" oak on edge around the perimeter and throughout the underside of the table, the table is ugly but still flat, remember that roughter weighs like 25-30lbs, a lot of weight for a table.

I am off to walk a house this morning; I will post up pictures of my table later if you like.
I already have the legs glued up with contact cement so they'll dry nice and fast, I guess I could make it 48"x24", that's a long fence though, i'll probably do 40". I'm doubling 3/4" birch, then putting laminate on it. I'm using 1/2" plexi for the inserts, i'm going to have a few different inserts for different bits.

I'll post pics of it later when I'm done, or at least post the progress.
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post #46 of 128 Old 08-08-2009, 03:30 PM
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suggestions:

If you are using 1 /2" for the router insert, it would be easier to use a piece of 1/2" for the top and then a backer of 3/4" under. That way the insert would sit almost flush with the laminate top. No routing out for the insert required this way. Just make the opening in the bottom 3/4 " piece about 3/8" or 1/2" smaller all the way around than the top 1/2" piece, like a shelf. Another suggestion is to use a premade table insert just for that router from http://www.ptreeusa.com/routerPlates.htm
Scroll down to see all available. The inserts for the plate are hard to duplicate by hand and you don't want to be dismounting your router to fit a different size opening all the time either. These discs just turn in and out 90 degrees.
Router tables are available for $180.00
http://www.ptreeusa.com/routerTables.htm

Question: I use a Mast R Lift with the PC 3 Hp router which I purchased with the motor only. So, I don't know how thick the base plate that comes with the router is, 1/4" maybe? Seems like you are going to lose some cutting depth due to the stack of base plate, and 1/2" insert. And unless you come up with a quick detach system for changing the router from insert to insert this will be a PITA. That's another reason why I'm suggesting use one insert, with interchangeable center discs, to expedite bit changes.
It's interesting how this post has evolved from "How to build a door" to building a router table to build a door. BTW, I absolutely wouldn't be without the lift, or some above the table top kind of height adjustment. The crank on the Mast R Lift has a dial indicator built in and it's a breeze to change heights in small amounts. All these features can be found on a shaper, of course, but in this case it's a little late for that now.

The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)

Last edited by woodnthings; 08-08-2009 at 06:28 PM.
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post #47 of 128 Old 08-08-2009, 09:51 PM Thread Starter
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If you are using 1 /2" for the router insert, it would be easier to use a piece of 1/2" for the top and then a backer of 3/4" under. That way the insert would sit almost flush with the laminate top. No routing out for the insert required this way. Just make the opening in the bottom 3/4 " piece about 3/8" or 1/2" smaller all the way around than the top 1/2" piece, like a shelf. Another suggestion is to use a premade table insert just for that router from http://www.ptreeusa.com/routerPlates.htm
Scroll down to see all available. The inserts for the plate are hard to duplicate by hand and you don't want to be dismounting your router to fit a different size opening all the time either. These discs just turn in and out 90 degrees.
Router tables are available for $180.00
http://www.ptreeusa.com/routerTables.htm

Question: I use a Mast R Lift with the PC 3 Hp router which I purchased with the motor only. So, I don't know how thick the base plate that comes with the router is, 1/4" maybe? Seems like you are going to lose some cutting depth due to the stack of base plate, and 1/2" insert. And unless you come up with a quick detach system for changing the router from insert to insert this will be a PITA. That's another reason why I'm suggesting use one insert, with interchangeable center discs, to expedite bit changes.
It's interesting how this post has evolved from "How to build a door" to building a router table to build a door. BTW, I absolutely wouldn't be without the lift, or some above the table top kind of height adjustment. The crank on the Mast R Lift has a dial indicator built in and it's a breeze to change heights in small amounts. All these features can be found on a shaper, of course, but in this case it's a little late for that now.
Had you said that 1 day earlier I would have probably gone that route (buying a special insert), But I already bought a piece 1/2" plexi and the top is already glued (2 - 3/4" pieces). If the glued legs turn out good (I used contact cement instead of wood glue) then I should have the table assembled with the top on tomorrow... I wish I could take more time and do a perfect table but I need to just get a solid table to work on so I can get this door going. (btw, how much time should I leave the white oak in the shop before working on it? - does it have to acclimate at all?).

The woodworker that's helping me came and looked at everything, told me to plane, square up and rip all the pieces to size and then call him before I do the routering.
I am however interested in the height adjustment thing...

thanks
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post #48 of 128 Old 08-09-2009, 03:39 AM
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I don't know on the PC 7539

Here's the combination I recommend. The JessEm Mast R Llift and the PC router motor only.
http://www.woodcraft.com/Family/2004354/2004354.aspx
A router must either have it's own height adjustment capability from the base plate so it's accessible from the top (upside down) or be used in a router lift system. I don't think your 7539 has that feature, so you'll be constantly underneath adjusting the height. I don't recommend a plunge router with a router table. The spring loaded feature will be fighting you when trying to adjust the height, upside down and underneath. The PC 7518 motor clamps into the MastRLift and then the height is adjustable with a threaded rod and a key from the top, much simpler. I would exchange it for one that has that feature or consider a lift.

Your wood should be kiln or air dried to a moisture content between 7 and 10%, and assembled as soon as possible after milling/planing for best results. Is it rough sawn from a distributor/wholesaler or from a local saw mill? Your advisor should be on top of this for you. Just a observatiom here, you seem in rather a rush to get all this together and done before getting the advice we have to offer here that my be helpful. Give us some "lead time" to answer your questions. bill

The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)

Last edited by woodnthings; 08-09-2009 at 07:55 AM.
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post #49 of 128 Old 08-09-2009, 08:11 AM Thread Starter
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Here's the combination I recommend. The JessEm Mast R Llift and the PC router motor only.
http://www.woodcraft.com/Family/2004354/2004354.aspx
A router must either have it's own height adjustment capability from the base plate so it's accessible from the top (upside down) or be used in a router lift system. I don't think your 7539 has that feature, so you'll be constantly underneath adjusting the height. I don't recommend a plunge router with a router table. The spring loaded feature will be fighting you when trying to adjust the height, upside down and underneath. The PC 7518 motor clamps into the MastRLift and then the height is adjustable with a threaded rod and a key from the top, much simpler. I would exchange it for one that has that feature or consider a lift.

Your wood should be kiln or air dried to a moisture content between 7 and 10%, and assembled as soon as possible after milling/planing for best results. Is it rough sawn from a distributor/wholesaler or from a local saw mill? Your advisor should be on top of this for you. Just a observatiom here, you seem in rather a rush to get all this together and done before getting the advice we have to offer here that my be helpful. Give us some "lead time" to answer your questions. bill
Before scribbles had said anything about a router table I was already on it, do I figured I'd just ask some question. I know It's gonna be harder under the table but I don't have $250 just for a lift, I've done it the other way my whole life, so i don't mind it that much.

We got the lumber from a wholesale distributer. $555 worth of it.
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post #50 of 128 Old 08-09-2009, 09:42 PM Thread Starter
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Would there be any reason I couldn't use this with a 3hp router to make the door?

Btw, I asked about the router a few days ago, so I gave a few days lead time
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post #51 of 128 Old 08-09-2009, 11:38 PM
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Just build the damb thing, more building less talking, and post pic's!
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post #52 of 128 Old 08-10-2009, 05:01 AM
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The mistakes we make with external doors is the choice of finish. Where I am we dont get extreme cold, just grumbles around freezing. But in summer we can get up to 47deg c now the door has that on one side and an air con. on the other, thats asking a lot of a piece of wood. So nice natural finiishes are not great. The best you can do to have a good fitting door is paint it white
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post #53 of 128 Old 08-10-2009, 07:00 AM
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Just build the damb thing, more building less talking, and post pic's!

What sends me over the edge with threads like this, is after all this, he decides to just buy one.






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post #54 of 128 Old 08-10-2009, 09:29 AM
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Missing word?

[quote=cabinetman;90693]What sends me over the edge with threads like this, is after all this, (THEN) he decides to just buy one.




That would be a shock for certain...after all this...But this OP seems pretty determined, strong willed and probably won't. I do find it amusing that all of a sudden we're building a router table rather than a door, when we were headed down the road to a shaper and all the cutters. Oh well, step by step. Not quite sure about the adviser in this case and his experience, just a feeling I'm getting tho, could be mistaken. That's the thing about free advice, you can take it or leave it and there is no repercussion, except maybe a learning experience. bill

The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)
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post #55 of 128 Old 08-10-2009, 09:33 AM Thread Starter
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I don't even have the router or bits yet, so building the door will have to wait til' they come and til' the router table is finished. Pics to come.
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post #56 of 128 Old 08-10-2009, 05:28 PM Thread Starter
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Well they sent me the 7518 instead of the 7539 so I might get that masterlift thing. If I need it. Does anyone know the exact dimensions for the masterlift insert plate?
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post #57 of 128 Old 08-10-2009, 07:15 PM
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You won't be sorry

There are 2 sizes from woodcraft, medium 9 1/4" x 11 3/4" and small 8 1/4" x 11 3/4".
http://www.woodcraft.com/Product/200...ium-Plate.aspx
http://www.woodcraft.com/Product/200...all-Plate.aspx

The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)
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post #58 of 128 Old 08-10-2009, 10:10 PM
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With the price of the rougher and master lift and table you can buy a good used shaper. Make up your mind man!
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post #59 of 128 Old 08-10-2009, 10:14 PM
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My 7518 works just fine bolted to a piece of 1/2 mdf. Buy a 2'nd 7518 and you wont need to ajust the height, same price as the lift
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post #60 of 128 Old 08-11-2009, 06:48 AM Thread Starter
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Was sick all day yesterday, really sick, got thre router and bits though! The legs and table top are glued up so this morning i'll assemble the whole thing and post some pics either by 12 or some time tonight after work.
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