Breadboard edge? - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
post #1 of 19 Old 05-26-2013, 09:13 AM Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
info's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Indiana
Posts: 274
View info's Photo Album My Photos
Breadboard edge?

I watch couple you tube videos on this for my new project .
I have ? My top is Ambrosia maple with walnut banding
Top size not made yet maple 63x 15 with 2 " black walnut band

1st.. Does the banding need to be a min. Size for this project
2.. When I make this joint for the end Pieces . I see videos drill hole in the
Other edges . Then screw the band to the end grain .
Can I install the banding . No end screws . Drill holes from top banding thru grove install dowell rods for looks ? Due to , I want to do a round over edge
Thanks
info is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 19 Old 05-26-2013, 09:45 AM
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Posts: 26,149
View Steve Neul's Photo Album My Photos
The breadboard end is mostly decoration but it also serves the purpose of helping keep the top from cupping. I think with a normal breadboard end your 2" walnut would be sufficient.

I don't think it would work as well just putting dowels through the mortise and tenon. When you use a screw the hole in the tenon is a shank hole and the screw pulls one side of the mortise against the other side sqeezing the tenon between. I think if you are going to use a dowel it would be better if you made the walnut end wider and make the tenon on the top longer.
Steve Neul is offline  
post #3 of 19 Old 05-26-2013, 09:52 AM
In History is the Future
 
firemedic's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: South Louisiana - Gonzales
Posts: 6,423
View firemedic's Photo Album My Photos
If you are looking for a traditional answer - never screws.

The center of the breadboard is through pinned and with a bit of glue... Any other pins are through a slotted hole in the tongue with no glue.

Draw boring helps to pull the breadboard tight.

This allows for E&C with no issues. Oversize the bread boards (legnth) and trim after fitting and environment acclimation.
firemedic is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #4 of 19 Old 05-26-2013, 11:14 AM Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
info's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Indiana
Posts: 274
View info's Photo Album My Photos
If I'm using a 2" banding . How deep do I grove it ? 1" or 1/2
Thanks
info is offline  
post #5 of 19 Old 05-26-2013, 11:18 AM
In History is the Future
 
firemedic's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: South Louisiana - Gonzales
Posts: 6,423
View firemedic's Photo Album My Photos
Quote:
Originally Posted by info View Post
If I'm using a 2" banding . How deep do I grove it ? 1" or 1/2
Thanks
Lets get on the same page.

What are you calling "banding?"
firemedic is offline  
post #6 of 19 Old 05-26-2013, 01:38 PM Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
info's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Indiana
Posts: 274
View info's Photo Album My Photos
see if this helps here
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	top1.jpg
Views:	253
Size:	30.5 KB
ID:	71846  

info is offline  
post #7 of 19 Old 05-26-2013, 01:59 PM Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
info's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Indiana
Posts: 274
View info's Photo Album My Photos
Here is another picture
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	TOP2.jpg
Views:	234
Size:	24.3 KB
ID:	71848  


Last edited by info; 05-26-2013 at 02:01 PM.
info is offline  
post #8 of 19 Old 05-26-2013, 09:04 PM
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Posts: 26,149
View Steve Neul's Photo Album My Photos
Quote:
Originally Posted by info View Post
If I'm using a 2" banding . How deep do I grove it ? 1" or 1/2
Thanks
I believe I would make the groove about 3/4". That would leave 1 1/4" of stock to hold the top flat and enough tenon the breadboard wouldn't feel like it was coming off.
Steve Neul is offline  
post #9 of 19 Old 05-26-2013, 10:28 PM Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
info's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Indiana
Posts: 274
View info's Photo Album My Photos
Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve Neul View Post
I believe I would make the groove about 3/4". That would leave 1 1/4" of stock to hold the top flat and enough tenon the breadboard wouldn't feel like it was coming off.
Thanks . I'm finally on the right path now . This top project may start this week or next weekend .
I got a new planer steel city , still in box . I have rough saw Ambrosia maple . It will get its work out .
Another ?
My maple top is 15 "deep . My rough cut about 12 1/2 wide . I will have to glue up .
I have a delta 6" wide jointer . Now should I cut 3 boards 5 " wide . Keep it all same size ? Or one board 10" then glue a 5" board. .
Thanks
info is offline  
post #10 of 19 Old 05-27-2013, 08:52 AM
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Posts: 26,149
View Steve Neul's Photo Album My Photos
Quote:
Originally Posted by info View Post
Thanks . I'm finally on the right path now . This top project may start this week or next weekend .
I got a new planer steel city , still in box . I have rough saw Ambrosia maple . It will get its work out .
Another ?
My maple top is 15 "deep . My rough cut about 12 1/2 wide . I will have to glue up .
I have a delta 6" wide jointer . Now should I cut 3 boards 5 " wide . Keep it all same size ? Or one board 10" then glue a 5" board. .
Thanks
The best way to tell if you should cut the boards 5" wide is look at the end of the board. If the end grain runs more horizontal it was cut toward the outer part of the tree and would be stable enough to use in one piece. If the wood was cut more toward the center of the tree it is more likely to cup warp and would be best to cut into more narrow pieces. Maple isn't bad to cup warp anyway so I would be inclined for appearance reasons to avoid ripping them if possible.
Steve Neul is offline  
post #11 of 19 Old 05-27-2013, 09:04 AM
Senior Member
 
Oakwerks's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Athens, Georgia
Posts: 401
View Oakwerks's Photo Album My Photos
***x
Oakwerks is offline  
post #12 of 19 Old 05-27-2013, 02:21 PM
In History is the Future
 
firemedic's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: South Louisiana - Gonzales
Posts: 6,423
View firemedic's Photo Album My Photos
I believe you would be better backing up a bit.


The design you posted looks nice but has a few concerns for E&C. I don't have time at the moment but will explain later today or tomorrow. There are better ways.
firemedic is offline  
post #13 of 19 Old 05-27-2013, 05:21 PM Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
info's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Indiana
Posts: 274
View info's Photo Album My Photos
Thanks .
Yes the top will start next weekend . I will post pictures on the maple boards next weekend

Last edited by info; 05-27-2013 at 05:24 PM.
info is offline  
post #14 of 19 Old 05-27-2013, 05:23 PM Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
info's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Indiana
Posts: 274
View info's Photo Album My Photos
I am learning so much on this project . I just don't cut , glue and stain .
info is offline  
post #15 of 19 Old 05-28-2013, 07:08 PM Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
info's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Indiana
Posts: 274
View info's Photo Album My Photos
Quote:
Originally Posted by firemedic View Post
I believe you would be better backing up a bit.


The design you posted looks nice but has a few concerns for E&C. I don't have time at the moment but will explain later today or tomorrow. There are better ways.
What would you suggest?
I want this last a lifetime or some what .
thank you
info is offline  
post #16 of 19 Old 05-28-2013, 09:30 PM
In History is the Future
 
firemedic's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: South Louisiana - Gonzales
Posts: 6,423
View firemedic's Photo Album My Photos
Quote:
Originally Posted by info View Post
What would you suggest?
I want this last a lifetime or some what .
thank you
Sorry, I'm working my tail off - slammed with builds!

The problem is with E&C. The table top will experience some movement so what will happen when it expands is a crack at the corner miter. When it shrinks a crack at the tongue and groove on the sides.

The best way to remedy this would be to glue the sides of your "banding" and let the bread board float. This means either the banding stops at the bread board or you make the bread board out of the same lumber as the banding. Ascetically I believe the later option is best.

You could have the banding continue through the bread board but with E&C the edges won't align after movement.

Is that clear enough to understand? Sometimes difficult to explain these things.
firemedic is offline  
post #17 of 19 Old 05-28-2013, 10:54 PM Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
info's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Indiana
Posts: 274
View info's Photo Album My Photos
Is this a good you tube video on breadboard end. He uses a dowel rod to hold system together

info is offline  
post #18 of 19 Old 05-29-2013, 08:32 AM
In History is the Future
 
firemedic's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: South Louisiana - Gonzales
Posts: 6,423
View firemedic's Photo Album My Photos
Quote:
Originally Posted by info View Post
Is this a good you tube video on breadboard end. He uses a dowel rod to hold system together

Video Link: http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=oDvdfuzk6pU
Yeah, it's fine. Tough to really tell much detail in the vid but it appears his outer tenons are a bit wide for the mortises.

To answer your question though, overall it's sound.
firemedic is offline  
post #19 of 19 Old 05-29-2013, 01:34 PM Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
info's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Indiana
Posts: 274
View info's Photo Album My Photos
Perfect . Thanks a lot
info is offline  
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in










Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Linear Mode



Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
breadboard ends panhandler Joinery 3 04-18-2013 10:05 AM
Breadboard ends debelpepper Joinery 3 08-13-2012 11:32 AM
Something to consider when doing breadboard ends mjdtexan General Woodworking Discussion 23 04-21-2011 11:57 PM
Shellac on a Breadboard Edge nostrildamus General Woodworking Discussion 3 01-14-2010 12:40 PM
first end grain breadboard and litho and box supershingler Project Showcase 10 10-13-2009 08:25 AM

Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome