Box Joint Jig that cuts 10 boards at a time - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
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post #1 of 28 Old 04-26-2020, 09:04 AM Thread Starter
Mark Jones Ozark
 
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Box Joint Jig that cuts 10 boards at a time

I love box joints and would like to come up with a jig that would allow me to cut 10 sides at a time on a Table Saw. Anyone seen anything like this? Do you have a link? I was thinking a cross cut sled with a key that goes the whole length of the sled so many pieces could be clamped to it and cut at the same time.

I have done many box joints and dovetails with a router and on the table saw using a standard box joint jig screwed on a miter gauge.

Puzzle boxes seem to be intriguing me right now. I was wanting to make some small boxes 4" x 6" by 3" deep out of some 1/4" red oak and put a hidden spring latch on them.

I have some red oak logs that are now cut into lumber stickered and air drying and will be perfect for some of these boxes.

I work with a church scouting organization called Royal Rangers and enjoy making stuff that they can get presented to them and use. We have a Frontiersman part of the program that allows all kinds of cool wood working stuff. Lanterns, canteens, cups, tables, chairs, flint and steel kits, bow drill fire kits...to name a few things we have made in our weekly meetings.

It's all good stuff and would like to come up with a GREAT way of making box joints fast and with as few cuts as possible.
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post #2 of 28 Old 04-26-2020, 09:32 AM
where's my table saw?
 
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just brain storming ......

If you stick all your piece together with small strips of double sided tape, then it would be like cutting a single slot in a thicker piece of wood. You would use the initial cut to fit over your spacing "finger" and go from there. It need not extend into all your pieces, if my theory is correct. I would not want to use clamps, which would be cumbersome, and if they came loose it would be ruinous and dangerous.

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The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)
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post #3 of 28 Old 04-26-2020, 10:09 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by woodnthings View Post
If you stick all your piece together with small strips of double sided tape, then it would be like cutting a single slot in a thicker piece of wood. You would use the initial cut to fit over your spacing "finger" and go from there. It need not extend into all your pieces, if my theory is correct. I would not want to use clamps, which would be cumbersome, and if they came loose it would be ruinous and dangerous.


Should work as described.


George
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post #4 of 28 Old 04-26-2020, 03:41 PM
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I routinely clamp multi pieces together - doing box joint cuts with the pcs vertical, you are handling the "stack" at every cut.
so it's not difficult to check for any looseness before every cut.


I dislike the double sticky tape routine. makes a mess to clean up, if not cleaned up super well staining/finishing is affected, and since the pieces are not tight to each other, you can get break-out / tear-out on every single piece.



another possibility I've used where ensuing cuts prohibited clamping....
cut the blanks 3/4 inch wide on each side (i.e. 1.5 total) - and cut long

run a very fine glue bead along the edges and glue all the pieces together in one "chunk"
then trim cut the ends so they're all the same length.
when done with the box joints, rip off the extra width - the glue bond goes with the waste piece....
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post #5 of 28 Old 04-27-2020, 09:15 PM Thread Starter
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There are many versions of this jig on the web. This one would allow me to cut a stack at one time. Have any of you made one of these?

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post #6 of 28 Old 04-28-2020, 12:19 PM
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looks like you found the solution
post up when you get 10 on there
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post #7 of 28 Old 04-28-2020, 04:19 PM Thread Starter
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looks like you found the solution
post up when you get 10 on there
This looks promising. I also think if I just got a shaper and stacked some bits on it and made the cuts in one cut.... I was eye balling them at Grizzly a month or so back... just no shaper!!!!

The oak boards are sitting on my table saw daring me to just go for it. HA! I am back to work for at&t fixing broadband lines so my gumption is not up to what it was when I was home hunkering down.

This jig looks fun to make.
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post #8 of 28 Old 05-04-2020, 09:17 PM Thread Starter
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I found that shaper thing.
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post #9 of 28 Old 05-05-2020, 12:07 PM
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effective, but scary AF
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post #10 of 28 Old 05-05-2020, 02:25 PM
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If you carefully stack your pieces together and clamp them, you won't need double sided tape, or even hot melt glue, but the farther away your boards are from the jig on your miter gauge, the more likely you will have problems if the miter gauge isn't absolutely 90 deg to the saw blade and there is any play in the miter slot. The further away, the more these errors will affect the farthest board. I wouldn't try to cut the A half of the joint at the same time that I was cutting the B half either. Stacking works well if you don't overdo it. Go for too much and accumulated errors can create a disaster.

Production methods use stacked blades and precise slides. All of it is automated for worker safety too, for operator safety. I use an Incra I-Box jig on my Unisaw with a Freud SBOX8 blade set to cut most of my box joints, and I cut several pieces at a time, but never large stacks of them. I do the A half of the corner joint on both ends of the front and back pieces of the box. Then the B half on both ends of the side pieces of my boxes. I might make 2 or 3 boxes at the same time depending on the thickness of the box sides, but never more than that.

Charley
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Last edited by CharleyL; 05-05-2020 at 02:34 PM.
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post #11 of 28 Old 05-05-2020, 02:46 PM
where's my table saw?
 
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Not me ....

If i'm going to make 10 boxes at a time that's 10 X the amount of valuable lumber I won't take any chances on ruining. Hot glue and double sides tape are cheaper than lumber by orders of magnitude. A bit of difficulty maybe on removing the double side tape but in my experience a sharp blade under it and it comes right off. Better safe that sorry, and I don't have a 14" tall shaper spindle or auto mated 90 degree sliding feed tables, just a table saw and a decent mitergauge/sled.

The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)
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post #12 of 28 Old 05-07-2020, 04:53 PM Thread Starter
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post #13 of 28 Old 05-07-2020, 04:54 PM Thread Starter
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Here is another design on box joints.
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post #14 of 28 Old 05-07-2020, 10:10 PM Thread Starter
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post #15 of 28 Old 05-07-2020, 10:11 PM Thread Starter
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Wow there is a bunch of great ideas on jigs for box joints out there. If you guys find some other designs post them here.
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post #16 of 28 Old 05-17-2020, 09:36 PM Thread Starter
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This one has Flippers and can do many pieces at once.

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post #17 of 28 Old 05-17-2020, 11:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by woodnthings View Post
If i'm going to make 10 boxes at a time that's 10 X the amount of valuable lumber I won't take any chances on ruining. Hot glue and double sides tape are cheaper than lumber by orders of magnitude. A bit of difficulty maybe on removing the double side tape but in my experience a sharp blade under it and it comes right off. Better safe that sorry, and I don't have a 14" tall shaper spindle or auto mated 90 degree sliding feed tables, just a table saw and a decent mitergauge/sled.
With double sided tape, either lacquer thinner or mineral spirits does both a great job of separating the two pieces and removing the residual glue.

Quote:
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Depending upon your persuasion, Imperial or Metric, use threads that correspond. If you are building an Imperial model use by 16 threads. A half turn is 1/32 and a quarter turn is 1/64.

Before I bought my Incra for the router table, I built one for almost peanuts. The most expensive part was the threaded rod. Actually it worked rather well.

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In furniture 1/32" is a Grand Canyon
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post #18 of 28 Old 05-31-2020, 10:38 AM Thread Starter
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This is the box joint jig I have elected to build just a tad bigger. I like this one the best with the hinged keeper and the clamping board.
Three modifications I will make to it.
1. 3" longer than this jig to accommodate larger stock.

2. Sliding fence face I will make it a bit higher so when the fingers are cut it won't cut into the fence that slides back and forth. I will use a waste backer board.

3. At the saw cut kerf a 90 degree fence about 6" wide to accommodate a stack of 10 3/8" boards.

I face booked the author and he gave me a couple of things that he would change now he has used it for several years. Those were a bit bigger and change the wingnut clamping. I figured bigger 3/8" bolts and knobs would speed that up.

Making it out of 3/4" red oak plywood. Fingers will be made out of 1/4" ready ply hardwood underlayment.
Plans go right I will make it today after church!

This video he is using a 1" thick MDF grey (oily) type board they have in Portugal. I like the look of that but we don't have that here and I don't want to use MDF as it splits very easily with screws.


Last edited by Mark Jones Ozark; 05-31-2020 at 10:40 AM.
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post #19 of 28 Old 05-31-2020, 02:58 PM
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Keep in mind that the thickness of the jig's fingers needs to match the saw kerf width of the blade that you will be using. If it cuts a kerf a couple of thousandths wider than the fingers of the jig it will likely be fine, and allow for the glue. If it is more than that or less than the jig fingers by even just a few thousandths of an inch you will have problems, and adjusting the finger widths to the blade kerf width will be very difficult with this jig. I wish you well in your venture.

Charley
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post #20 of 28 Old 06-01-2020, 08:01 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CharleyL View Post
Keep in mind that the thickness of the jig's fingers needs to match the saw kerf width of the blade that you will be using. If it cuts a kerf a couple of thousandths wider than the fingers of the jig it will likely be fine, and allow for the glue. If it is more than that or less than the jig fingers by even just a few thousandths of an inch you will have problems, and adjusting the finger widths to the blade kerf width will be very difficult with this jig. I wish you well in your venture.

Charley
This one is a little different and that is why I like it better. The Fingers are just quarter inch plywood that can be reconfigured on the fly. I can make a mixture of 1/4" 1/2" 3/4" and 1" or any combination of 1/4" spacing fingers on the same board. The drill bit I use that goes in-between the fingers to represent the blade is about .0004 less than the size of the saw blade kerf.

I got most of the jig made yesterday afternoon it's big so it will handle 1.5" thick material box joints. My fingers are a bit too long and they flex. I am cutting them down from 1.5 x 3 to 1.5 to 2.25.

I have decided to put in a Ttrack to use as a adjustable clamping jig. Hopefully I can swing by Grizzly today and pick some of that up.

I used almost half of a full sheet of plywood of 3/4" red oak plywood jig is 24" wide x 24" wide. (I wanted something that will handle 2x12 boards down to 1/4" thick by 2" boards.) The smaller boards I want to cut like 5 sets at a time going out to 5" thick. So I am modifying the fence more to handle that. With this jig I can cut nearly a 24" wide box joint by flipping it very carefully and using a key.

The jig stands 11" tall on the table. After I get the fingers cut down it will take some pictures.
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