Best joinery for a book stand project? - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
 
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post #1 of 15 Old 10-20-2018, 10:05 AM Thread Starter
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Best joinery for a book stand project?

Hi everyone,
My name is Amir. I've been exploring and learning from this forum for a long time. So thank you all.

I'm trying to make a book stand with an angled book plate, as seen in the attached pictures.

What is the best and strongest joint for attaching the two green sides to the yellow middle part?
I think that glue alone is not sufficient because of the down force caused from the sides weight. So how should I strengthen such a joint?

I don't have biscuit or domino joiners. And I prefer not to screw the parts from the back.

Material thickness is 1/2", and the angle of the yellow part is 30 degrees.

Appreciate your help.
Thank you.
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post #2 of 15 Old 10-20-2018, 11:13 AM
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If it were me I would just glue it together. Then fabricate a metal strip in that shape to attach to the top and bottom. If it were 3/4" material you might get away with putting a spline in the joint but even then if someone would push down very hard on it the joint would still break. Another option would be to construct a wooden frame behind it to hold it. It's just too much to expect from a wooden joint.
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post #3 of 15 Old 10-20-2018, 03:11 PM Thread Starter
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Hi Steve,
I'm learning so much from your answers and your endless experience. I like the framing idea, and may give it a try.

What if I glue the joint as a butt joint and reinforce it with dowels from underneath? does this contribute to the joint's strength?
How about finger joint?

I'm trying to gather some ideas to practice and compare results before applying to the final product.

Thank you.
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post #4 of 15 Old 10-20-2018, 03:43 PM
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Are you planning on putting a shelf on the bottom to support the book, if so a solid board running across would help support the wings.
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post #5 of 15 Old 10-20-2018, 04:21 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FrankC View Post
Are you planning on putting a shelf on the bottom to support the book, if so a solid board running across would help support the wings.

Hi Frank,
Yes, I'm planning to add that bottom support for the book, but didn't think about using a solid block.. What a great idea, thank you
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post #6 of 15 Old 10-20-2018, 07:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by amirkh View Post
Hi Steve,
I'm learning so much from your answers and your endless experience. I like the framing idea, and may give it a try.

What if I glue the joint as a butt joint and reinforce it with dowels from underneath? does this contribute to the joint's strength?
How about finger joint?

I'm trying to gather some ideas to practice and compare results before applying to the final product.

Thank you.
I don't think any kind of joint you could do on plywood would hold up to normal use. I think the easiest solution would be to make a wooden bracket something like this on the back side.
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post #7 of 15 Old 10-21-2018, 06:11 AM
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Or if you had plenty of time and patience you could do box or finger joints. If you’ve got a router, table or even radial arm saw, for that matter, I bet you could figure it out.
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post #8 of 15 Old 10-21-2018, 08:02 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve Neul View Post
I don't think any kind of joint you could do on plywood would hold up to normal use. I think the easiest solution would be to make a wooden bracket something like this on the back side.

Thank you, Steve.
I appreciate your time and efforts.
That's a great solution, I'm definitely going to try it.
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post #9 of 15 Old 10-21-2018, 10:01 AM
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I do not see anywhere that you stated what type of wood you want to use to make this. Plywood or solid?(makes significant difference in joint types that can be used)



Pine, oak or what?



Why does it have to be 1/2"?



Can the "center" piece be thicker than the other two? If so you can route two dados into center to accept wings.



If you are willing to make a frame it seems that you would be willing to use thicker stock.


George
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post #10 of 15 Old 10-21-2018, 10:10 AM
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Just a heads up, you should angle both parts that are to be joined, I noticed in the drawing only the yellow part was bevelled.

Wise men speak because they have something to say; fools because they have to say something -Plato

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post #11 of 15 Old 10-21-2018, 11:46 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Littlefield View Post
Or if you had plenty of time and patience you could do box or finger joints. If you’ve got a router, table or even radial arm saw, for that matter, I bet you could figure it out.

I think that patience is the key for success.
I will try to make angled finger joint and see if it works.


Thank you.
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post #12 of 15 Old 10-21-2018, 11:57 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GeorgeC View Post
I do not see anywhere that you stated what type of wood you want to use to make this. Plywood or solid?(makes significant difference in joint types that can be used)

Pine, oak or what?

Why does it have to be 1/2"?

Can the "center" piece be thicker than the other two? If so you can route two dados into center to accept wings.

If you are willing to make a frame it seems that you would be willing to use thicker stock.

George

Hi George,

You're absolutely right, it's my fault.. I didn't mention the type of the material because I work almost all the time with Pine, because that's what we have primarily here.. so I took it as granted and forgot to mention that.
I'ts 1/2" since that's what I have in hand.
The middle part can be thicker, so I'll try to make Dados and give it a try.

Thank you very much.
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post #13 of 15 Old 10-21-2018, 12:20 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FrankC View Post
Just a heads up, you should angle both parts that are to be joined, I noticed in the drawing only the yellow part was bevelled.

I've beveled only the middle yellow part in order to get the 30 degrees. If I beveled both parts then the angle would be narrower.
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post #14 of 15 Old 10-21-2018, 01:02 PM
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Bevelling only one part will make the joining edge wider than the joining edge of the part that is not bevelled.

Bevel each part half as much as you would have bevelled only one part and you will have the same result with two parts that fit together properly.

Wise men speak because they have something to say; fools because they have to say something -Plato

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post #15 of 15 Old 10-23-2018, 05:04 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FrankC View Post
Bevelling only one part will make the joining edge wider than the joining edge of the part that is not bevelled.

Bevel each part half as much as you would have bevelled only one part and you will have the same result with two parts that fit together properly.

I understand.. Thank you, and thanks to everyone who contributed and enlightened me.
I'll take your answers and I will begin experimenting with various methods to see what works best for this project.
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