Bee Hive Super Joint Jig for a tablesaw - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
 
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post #1 of 16 Old 01-15-2015, 02:29 AM Thread Starter
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Bee Hive Super Joint Jig for a tablesaw

Does anybody know of a good jig for a tablesaw to make bee hive joints with????
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post #2 of 16 Old 01-15-2015, 02:42 AM
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Are you looking for a box joint jig?

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post #3 of 16 Old 01-15-2015, 06:20 AM
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What is it.

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post #4 of 16 Old 01-15-2015, 09:31 AM
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I think Frank may be right, it's probably a box joint. A person could make a table saw sled or make a jig like this and screw it to their miter gauge. The pin would be the same width as the dado and the space between the pin and the blade would be the same width as the blade.
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post #5 of 16 Old 01-16-2015, 09:44 AM Thread Starter
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Jig

Im not sure how to explain it but I seen a jig one time that made multiple joints by flipping wood pieces with each joint made. You could also stack up to eight boards at a time and do them all at once.

It was pretty cool :)
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post #6 of 16 Old 01-16-2015, 11:56 AM
where's my table saw?
 
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I donno about 8 at a time....

But you might find what you are looking for here:


You Tube
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HSMEkUKBfGY

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U2i0jDKodSw



The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)

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post #7 of 16 Old 01-16-2015, 04:49 PM
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Here are a few pics of a screw advance box joint jig I just finished and some sample joints. It is copied from a U tube vid shown on WWT tips and jigs section around October 2014. Check there for details. I made it to use my regular 24 tooth Diablo ripping blade. I first used a 3/8" 16 TPI all thread for the screw. The samples came out with a different width between the fingers and the spacing. I then realized the blade is thin kerf and .100". I had to get a 1/8" or 1/4" blade to match the 16 TPI. Instead I found a 1/2" 10 threads per inch Acme screw which matched the blade width. It is possible to make box joints that are not 90 degree by clamping a slanted piece as in the picture and the work piece against it. The joint can then be assembled either more or less than 90 degrees by reversing the parts. See the brown sample less than 90. This might be handy in making a modern table leg.This is a smooth working design because the screw is supported at both ends.
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post #8 of 16 Old 01-16-2015, 06:18 PM
where's my table saw?
 
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question

I don't understand how you can make dados with the single blade and kerf I see in the top photo. I see wider dados in the bottom photo, were they made with the same jig?

The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)
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post #9 of 16 Old 01-16-2015, 07:51 PM
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All the test joints were made with the same jig and blade. The neat thing about the jig is you can just drop it on the table saw and make any size finger that is a multiple of 1/10"(the width of the saw blade). Each full turn of the crank advances the workpiece 1/10" because it is a 10 thread per inch screw. In the pic I did 1/10",2/10",and 3/10" fingers.

To make a joint with 3/10" fingers, I crank the jig to where the blade is just touching the parallel wood part of the jig. Then cut,full turnof the crank-cut, another full turn-cut-then three full turns with no cut-then turn cut, turn cut, turn cut, then three more full turns with no cut etc, etc. Haven't tried it yet but should be able to cut at least six pieces at a time.
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post #10 of 16 Old 01-16-2015, 11:42 PM Thread Starter
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Those are some interesting jigs but its not the one I saw. Thanks for all the input thus far. If I can't come across the one I saw I would like to try one of these out. Thanks again....
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post #11 of 16 Old 02-12-2015, 02:15 AM
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I'm a beekeeper and the typical joint used is a box joint. The jigs the other posters showed you will work well to make the box joints for brood boxes or supers. All my hives are made with rabbet joints as they are strong enough however the "norm" is box joints.
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post #12 of 16 Old 02-12-2015, 06:56 AM
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Alternative to Box Joint

I make Bee supers with a box joint jig too and normally just cut two pieces at a time. It's the same jig just stack the boards up. A nice alternative to the box joint or just a simple rabbet is the dado rabbet, here's a picture. One pass on each board....just depends if you want to go for the traditional look or crank em out quickly.
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post #13 of 16 Old 02-13-2015, 01:52 AM
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I like that joint adot. When I make boxes it's 40 at a time and rabbets were the quickest for me. The dado rabbet would be just as easy to cut and it looks a bit stronger than what I'm using.
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post #14 of 16 Old 02-13-2015, 08:32 AM
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Wow rwurster sounds like you really bang em out.....The downside with this joint is the end grain exposed to weather, the upside is this joint will hold a lot of glue. When gluing them up coat the exposed end grain with glue, that and then paint and they last a good while. You make Langstroth's?
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post #15 of 16 Old 02-13-2015, 10:46 AM
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Yes they're all langstroth hive bodies. I'm moving from 10 frame hive bodies to all 8 frame deep hive bodies, even the supers are 8 frame deeps for frame interchangeability. Good to see some fellow beekeepers here :)
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post #16 of 16 Old 02-23-2015, 01:56 AM
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Surely box joints also show end grain. To have concealed end grain would be a much complicated joint.
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