Angled mortise? - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
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post #1 of 5 Old 01-21-2013, 12:11 PM Thread Starter
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Angled mortise?

I am trying to make some diagonal "slats" - something like this (attached). How would I cut the mortises for a diagonal "tenon" like that (the slat itself could probably go directly into the mortise rather than actually cutting a tenon on the end of it, no?)? It seems like a router bit would have to be at an angle with respect to the bottom rail, and I don't know how to achieve that setup.

Any thoughts? Perhaps this joint has a different name that I can look up?

Any input is appreciated!

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post #2 of 5 Old 01-21-2013, 12:20 PM
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You cut the tenon perpendicular to what you are putting it into so the mortise isn't angled. So you've got your cross piece with a mitered end, and then a tenon sticking out of it straight down, instead of in line with the whole piece.

Think of it like the mitered tenons in a picture frame.
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post #3 of 5 Old 01-21-2013, 01:29 PM
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Perhaps this may help a little

maybe you could think about dowels instead of M&T? With the info you've given and the example being something other than what you are actually looking for, it's hard to say what joinery might be "enough" for the job...

you could also cut a slot , either with a router or table saw, that would accept the slats... still not knowing the exact project.

Last edited by mobilepaul; 01-21-2013 at 02:54 PM.
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post #4 of 5 Old 01-21-2013, 07:11 PM
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My first thought was use a biscut jointer! But I guess that depends on the application of the slats and how wide they are.
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post #5 of 5 Old 01-21-2013, 09:54 PM
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I wouldn't try to make angled mortises, cutting angled tenons is much easier. Besides if you tried to use angled mortises to reproduce the piece you show, it would never go together with the cross pieces at opposing angles for the mortises.

Here is how I cut angled tenons. First cut the ends of your pieces to the angle they will be relative to the mortise. Then use your marking gauge to mark the length of the tenons. Mark the tenon on the end of the board, but don't use the marking gauge for the tenon cheeks. Instead, use a square on the end of the tenon to mark for the cheek cuts.

Cutting the tenons will be easier if you angle the boards in the vise so you are holding the saw vertical for all cuts.

You could cut these with a table saw and an tenon jig, but for me it is easier to cut them with a hand saw (especially since I don't have a table saw)

Edit: Here is a link with a couple of pictures of angled tenons for a stool I made: A Simple Stool

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Last edited by trc65; 01-21-2013 at 10:09 PM.
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