Advice with unstable knots - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
post #1 of 11 Old 02-10-2014, 05:40 PM Thread Starter
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: London UK
Posts: 2
View Broomberg's Photo Album My Photos
Advice with unstable knots

Hi everyone,

I've been lurking around for a while now soaking up the vast knowledge on the site, but now I'm hoping someone much wiser than me can give me some advice with some strange knots in a book-matched set of English (well, Scottish) elm I'm working with....

I'm relatively new to joinery, having previously only ever made small items as a wood carver, but I've now just begun building a coffee table from two beautiful book-matched waney edge boards. However, you'll see from the attached that there are some light coloured knots (unlike others in the boards) in both boards which feel very unstable to the touch (i.e they move loose within the board) and the wood itself seems to be branch wood - soft and porous.

What do people reckon is the best way to deal with these? Asteheticly I've thought about staining them slightly darker to match others in the boards, or perhaps even taking the drastic step of removing them and filling?

I've attached some pictures of the joined boards, any suggestions or helpful tips would be very welcome!

http://imgur.com/DreM4QE
http://imgur.com/CpAqWVO
http://imgur.com/uWmPQPU
Broomberg is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 11 Old 02-10-2014, 06:07 PM
Senior Member
 
Brian T.'s Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: McBride, BC
Posts: 2,648
View Brian T.'s Photo Album My Photos
Unless you plan to paint the table, leave them as the features that they are. Trees grow but never perfectly.

Loose knots: I sealed the underside with masking tape. Over weeks, I gradually filled the gaps with plain old carpenter's glue. This was a piece of pine, three knots of 1.5" and bigger. The next step
was to rip that piece in half for the adjacent frame edges of a pair of cupboard (glass) doors.
Worked like an absolute dream. The cut went right down the middles of all three knots and nothing moved at all.
Brian T. is offline  
post #3 of 11 Old 02-10-2014, 07:43 PM
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Posts: 25,995
View Steve Neul's Photo Album My Photos
I would ignore the knots for now. After you start finishing the wood and get the stain on if any, make a damn around the knot and flood it with a de-waxed shellac so it soaks through the crevasse to the other side. If it runs through readily you might put tape over the knot on the under side to hold it in. Shellac will bond to the high pitch wood around the knot so it should bond the knot.
Steve Neul is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #4 of 11 Old 02-11-2014, 05:57 PM Thread Starter
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: London UK
Posts: 2
View Broomberg's Photo Album My Photos
Many thanks for both your suggestions... I'll leave them as they are and fill the cavity around them with either shellac or resin before sanding.
Broomberg is offline  
post #5 of 11 Old 02-11-2014, 08:55 PM
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: Lake Gaston, NC
Posts: 328
View Tom King's Photo Album My Photos
I'd replace the light ones with dark knots glued in with epoxy. I've even done something similar before. I've made knots fit into knot holes more than a few times on old stuff that we didn't want to leave the holes, but nothing else would look right.
Tom King is offline  
post #6 of 11 Old 02-11-2014, 09:34 PM
Senior Member
 
firehawkmph's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Near Cleveland, Ohio
Posts: 5,023
View firehawkmph's Photo Album My Photos
When I encounter knots in my turnings, I use CA glue to stabilize them. It dries clear, can be sanded or machined. I usually use the thin variety first so it soaks into the knot. Then follow it up with the medium grade, which fills voids very well. You can use the spray accelerator to make the glue dry instantly.
Mike Hawkins
firehawkmph is offline  
post #7 of 11 Old 02-12-2014, 01:12 AM
Junior Member
 
abelara's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2013
Posts: 23
View abelara's Photo Album My Photos
Hello. What I've seen done is. People pop out the knot and glue them back with epoxy. And sand out the excess glue.
Or you can disguise the loose know by adding rocks on top of it. (Pop out the knot and get a nice looking rock and trace the outline and on top of the knot and carve in the outline so the rock can pit. Then add some epoxy to stick to the wood.)
Attached Images
 
abelara is offline  
The Following User Says Thank You to abelara For This Useful Post:
Brian T. (03-31-2014)
post #8 of 11 Old 02-22-2014, 08:43 AM
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: Wake Forest, NC
Posts: 21
View Wbwufpack's Photo Album My Photos
What do you guys think about filling the knots with slow setting epoxy? I saw a wood whisperer episode where he used some tinted epoxy and it looked pretty good. The only issue I have found with this method is that I can't find any slow set epoxy that doesn't cost a fortune.
Wbwufpack is offline  
post #9 of 11 Old 03-31-2014, 03:04 AM
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2013
Posts: 23
View ctf15's Photo Album My Photos
Quote:
Originally Posted by Wbwufpack View Post
What do you guys think about filling the knots with slow setting epoxy? I saw a wood whisperer episode where he used some tinted epoxy and it looked pretty good. The only issue I have found with this method is that I can't find any slow set epoxy that doesn't cost a fortune.
Follow Mike's advice..ca glue works best
ctf15 is offline  
post #10 of 11 Old 03-31-2014, 06:32 AM
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Otautahi , Te WahiPounamu ( Christchurch , New Zealand)
Posts: 1,494
View Manuka Jock's Photo Album My Photos
Yep , I too use CA for that .

Broomberg ,
the knots are soft and porous , and loose because they are dead , rotted .
The CA will darken them slightly . If thats' a not a good look , if they need to be darker , CA is good with oily and damp material .
Ink , dye , or the like
Manuka Jock is offline  
post #11 of 11 Old 03-31-2014, 03:40 PM
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: Lake Gaston, NC
Posts: 328
View Tom King's Photo Album My Photos
I often use black golf club epoxy, but I keep some on hand for its intended purpose anyway.

The Locktite "liquid control" CA gives you a few seconds to work with it before it locks. I end up using it for all sorts of things. Read the directions on the back of the package on how to open the end.
Tom King is offline  
Reply

Tags
bookmatch, elm, filling, knots

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in










Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Linear Mode



Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Table top knots...help walleye vision General Woodworking Discussion 10 04-24-2013 09:23 AM
We delete knots. R.J. Tips, Tricks, & Homemade Jigs 16 06-11-2012 11:24 AM
Knots in cutting boards Warnock General Woodworking Discussion 6 04-23-2011 07:53 PM
Desk top staining: what to do with knots? shazapple Wood Finishing 3 10-15-2010 01:08 AM
Knots in the wood Ibangwood Forestry & Milling 2 08-06-2010 05:05 PM

Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome