6" jointer - 12" wide board - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
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post #1 of 32 Old 02-08-2013, 12:05 AM Thread Starter
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6" jointer - 12" wide board

I am hoping that someone can help me with an issue. I am making mirror frames out of reclaimed barn beams. The beams are 12" and I am cutting them down with my Woodmizer bandsaw mill. In the past I have always just cut them down to 6" wide and jointed them and then squared an edge and ran through a planer but that does not give me a lot of options with width. I have given it a lot of thought to buying a 12" jointer from Grizzly but hate the thought of loosing that much space in my shop is there any option to this?

If you have a solution please let me know. If not I guess me and the wife are going to be having another talk about yet another tool. YIKES!

Rob

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post #2 of 32 Old 02-08-2013, 12:20 AM
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I'm not sure I understand the issue. If you are resawing the beams to 12" wide boards you could straighten them on any size jointer, rip them 1/8" oversized on a table saw and then joint them back to a finished size. The only reason you would need a 12" jointer is to flatten the face of the boards before surfacing them with the planer.
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post #3 of 32 Old 02-08-2013, 12:45 AM
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I know alot of guys have had great success with flattening very large surfaces with a router sled. There are alot of examples on this forum.

Check out post #2 in this thread for an example.

Fabian

I used to be fairly indecisive, but now....... I'm not so sure.

Last edited by thegrgyle; 02-08-2013 at 12:47 AM. Reason: added example
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post #4 of 32 Old 02-08-2013, 01:08 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve Neul View Post
I'm not sure I understand the issue. If you are resawing the beams to 12" wide boards you could straighten them on any size jointer, rip them 1/8" oversized on a table saw and then joint them back to a finished size. The only reason you would need a 12" jointer is to flatten the face of the boards before surfacing them with the planer.
Ok I can see that I am an idiot the way I explained that. I am actually looking to face 12" stock. I want to do wider stock then I have a jointer for. I have searched all over youtube and saw a number of videos but I think that I may be better off just buying the 12" Grizzly jointer. Right now I can only do 6" which is nice but for me its not wide enough.

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post #5 of 32 Old 02-08-2013, 01:11 AM
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use a hand plane, something like a stanley #7 ... 22" long or so. there is no width limit with one of those.

it is also called a jointer plane.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jointer_plane

http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&q=jointer+plane

Last edited by Chris Curl; 02-08-2013 at 01:15 AM.
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post #6 of 32 Old 02-08-2013, 01:22 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks Chris and yes I already thought of that but I have 100's of 12-14' lengths of barn siding and I need to supply my customers with these frames for there restaurants, bars, hotel rooms and homes so I need a faster way to do it. I guess I am going to have to just buy the 12" jointer and deal with it in my shop. I plan on moving out a couple of large UNUSED tables to put in my assembly table and my WoodMizer but guess I will have to make space for this as well!

Rob

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post #7 of 32 Old 02-08-2013, 10:00 AM
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This isn't the best solution for 100s of 12" beams but it works well and rather quickly for smaller amounts of lumber that are wider than your jointer. If this is an on going thing for your shop, you may want to consider leasing with buy option on either new or used jointers. The problem is that larger ones other than 12" Grizzly may require 3 phase.

http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f26/h...-please-45888/
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post #8 of 32 Old 02-08-2013, 11:45 AM
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schramm, how long are these boards? i have found that it takes just a few minutes to flatten a 4 foot long 2x6.

agreed, 10 minutes is longer than 15 seconds.
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post #9 of 32 Old 02-08-2013, 12:18 PM
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Look at Grizzly's 12" jointer/planer combo with the spiral cutter head.
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post #10 of 32 Old 02-08-2013, 02:29 PM
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My Dewalt 735 planer does 13" wide boards and its small enough to sit in the back of my shop and not take up much space.
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post #11 of 32 Old 02-08-2013, 03:03 PM
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A resawn stick has serious EMC (moisture issues) compensation problems no matter. So to accommodate that, I'd rip the planks in 1/2, (~<6") joint one face, then slot one edge. Insert skinny spline, & glue back together & replane.
With very little waste on the edge joint; the sticks will join with nearly >95% of a match. You won't be able to see the loss.
Slow? Maybe, but necessary too as your 12" sticks will cup so badly without the reglue/resaw that your yield will suffer. Moreover, with a good glue press you could be faster than you think.
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post #12 of 32 Old 02-09-2013, 07:48 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Quillman View Post
A resawn stick has serious EMC (moisture issues) compensation problems no matter. So to accommodate that, I'd rip the planks in 1/2, (~<6") joint one face, then slot one edge. Insert skinny spline, & glue back together & replane.
With very little waste on the edge joint; the sticks will join with nearly >95% of a match. You won't be able to see the loss.
Slow? Maybe, but necessary too as your 12" sticks will cup so badly without the reglue/resaw that your yield will suffer. Moreover, with a good glue press you could be faster than you think.
Yes I do understand about EMC, I have tested a way to handle that to keep the boards from cupping and bowing and that is to joint the face and 1 side, then stack the boards again for 3 days to allow to slowing release moisture and to re-acclimate. On the 4th day is when I plane the wood and then stack it again to go to a buddy of mine that owns a mill near me to kiln dry out the rest of the moisture but to also to raise the temp of the wood to 150-170 degrees for no less then 12 hours which will kill bacteria as well as any bugs.
There is a lot to know to work with re-claimed wood as your initial investment is only the start, its your time that will kill you. I do like the idea of taking them apart then spline them back together however I will have to try it a few times as that may be a little bit more difficult then just buying a 12" jointer as I would have to keep track of the 2 pieces that go back together. I am going to try that this up coming week. Leaving now to go and pick up 1500 board feet of beautiful 12"w x 5/4 barn siding in worn red and no paint grey 150 year old pine. Should make for some nice frames.

Rob
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post #13 of 32 Old 02-09-2013, 07:54 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BKBuilds View Post
My Dewalt 735 planer does 13" wide boards and its small enough to sit in the back of my shop and not take up much space.
I own a Woodmaster 718, so I have no issues with a planer, its a jointer that I need to figure out. I actually tried ripping one of the boards to (2) 6" strips then jointed 1 side and 1 edge, then skim planed the other side, cleaned up the other side removing 1/16" used my Festool Domino and put it back together as suggested and it looks great! Thanks for that suggestion Quillman

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post #14 of 32 Old 02-13-2013, 08:45 PM
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post #15 of 32 Old 02-13-2013, 09:08 PM
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You probably don't want to hear this: For boards wider than my jointer I hand plane one side flat and then run it through my planer for the second side. It's a good workout as long as you're not in a big hurry.

Those who say it cannot be done should stay out of the way of the people doing it.
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post #16 of 32 Old 02-14-2013, 07:01 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Schramm View Post
I own a Woodmaster 718, so I have no issues with a planer, its a jointer that I need to figure out. I actually tried ripping one of the boards to (2) 6" strips then jointed 1 side and 1 edge, then skim planed the other side, cleaned up the other side removing 1/16" used my Festool Domino and put it back together as suggested and it looks great! Thanks for that suggestion Quillman
It is not clear to me why you need a jointer for this as opposed to a planer.

Are the two sides of the boards not parallel to each other when you start?

Are you buying both "beams" and boards. You mention sawing boards out of beams in your first post. Does your saw not produce boards that have parallel surfaces?

You later say you are buying 5/4 boards. I can understand this old barn wood being rough and not always the same thickness. However, I would think that the two surfaces are parallel.

George
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post #17 of 32 Old 02-14-2013, 07:25 AM
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Planers only surface, not flatten wood.
If you run a bowed piece through a planer it will still be bowed.
The roller in the planer will temporarily hold it straight while it is surfaced.
That being said, there is no guarantee that a piece flattened on a jointer will not bow slightly once wood/tension has been removed from the opposite side with planer.

Last edited by bzguy; 02-14-2013 at 08:06 AM. Reason: clarification
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post #18 of 32 Old 02-14-2013, 02:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bzguy
Planers only surface, not flatten wood.
If you run a bowed piece through a planer it will still be bowed.
The roller in the planer will temporarily hold it straight while it is surfaced.
That being said, there is no guarantee that a piece flattened on a jointer will not bow slightly once wood/tension has been removed from the opposite side with planer.
While a planer by itself will not correct a warped, twisted or cupped board, it will remove the high spots. The important thing is to have one side flat so when you do run it through a surface planer you can make both sides parallel. That's also why you should only mill close to the final dimensions and let the wood acclimate prior to final dimensioning. Problem boards aside, flattening one side on a jointer (or with a hand plane) is common practice and more often than not, successful. Dealing with individual defects (cup, twist, bow) is handled on a board by board basis.The use of winding sticks, marking devices etc. with a practiced technique will yield excellent results. If you have another technique to recommend then by all means, we'd like to hear about it. In this case, since his jointer is 6" and his planer at least 12", an alternate method of flattening the first side is called for. If only to remove saw marks.

Those who say it cannot be done should stay out of the way of the people doing it.
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post #19 of 32 Old 02-15-2013, 01:30 AM Thread Starter
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Planers are just fine for getting your project to final thickness, but in order to take out the defects and truing 1 side you need to flatten 1 side and then 1 edge on a jointer. If the board is warped or has a twist you can cut them down to a board more straight. I do not have my mill in on my property yet as I got it about 1 week ago and I am waiting on my carport to get there before I bring it over. The mill will give me excellent results but even that is far from perfect as the wood has to air dry and then kiln dry prior to getting used. While there are advantages to going to the home center and just buying wood, the number of advantages far outweigh the disadvantages in milling your own wood. I am going to break down and buy Grizzly's 12" jointer with the spiral head, they are a little costly but honestly I will make it up in about 5 molding jobs so it is worth it. I work with a number of builders that do restorations on period homes and make moldings for them and sometimes the easiest way to match a finish is to use wood from that period with the same age.

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post #20 of 32 Old 02-15-2013, 04:19 AM
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Hey good for you!

That should be an awesome jointer. I just remembered that I made a planer sled from some gluing frames, when the board was wider than my 6" jointer. This worked better than I thought, taking lighter cuts to flatten one side.
From a previous post: Planer Sled on Rails
Planer sled
My version came from my "gluing frames" and thinking about a 2 rail system which simply screwed into the edges of the board to be planed.
Heck, I already had a gluing frame, why not try it? The following photos are the results. It worked like a charm!
The reason for a planer sled is your workpiece is too wide for your jointer:
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The rails were a little short for this board as they should have extended 4 or 5 inches beyond the ends, but even so it worked fine. There was a little snipe as a result but it planed out afterwards.

More photos showing the board surfaced one side then removed from the sled and final surfaced. The pile of "chips" was collected by the single stage collector hooked directly to the planer hood.
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The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)
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