Carving trough with bent gouge chisel - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
 
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post #1 of 9 Old 01-28-2015, 02:34 PM Thread Starter
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Carving trough with bent gouge chisel

Hey All,

I am making a birthday present for my father which is a block of red oak that I am cutting slots in the back to hold envelopes, a larger slat to hold a phone and business cards and a trough running along the front to hold a pen laying on its side.

For the trough, is it possible to make that using a 12mm bent gouge and at the same time keeping the level of that trough even throughout the length of wood (roughly 10-12" I haven't decided yet)?

The gouge I have is this http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/pag...30,58812,58815

I originally bought it to carve out some bowls for my brother in laws but that never turned out. This will be the first time I am using a chisel.

Let me know your thoughts :)

EDIT: In case anyone is confused as to the trough I am speaking of, something similar to this but maybe a bit shallower.

Last edited by arvanlaar; 01-28-2015 at 02:36 PM.
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post #2 of 9 Old 01-28-2015, 06:43 PM
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That would be pretty easy to do with a router. Cutting that out in oak by hand with that chisel would be unbelievably difficult difficult to do. You would need at least two chisels with that sweeps but one would need to be straight and the other would need to be a spoon chisel.
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post #3 of 9 Old 01-28-2015, 07:42 PM Thread Starter
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So I guess you would use the bent gauge one for staring the trough and the straight one for clearing out the majority of the leveled out portion. Will my father in law let me use his router... I was REALLY hoping to try out this chisel :(
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post #4 of 9 Old 01-28-2015, 08:07 PM
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If it were me I would route it out. Start with a larger board and mortise the slot in it with a bit like this and then cut the board to size. You could make a pattern that you could run against the base of the router or use a template guide on the router.
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post #5 of 9 Old 01-28-2015, 08:36 PM Thread Starter
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Since you are always super helpful Steve, can I ask you another question?

I plan to cut/route out a 1" deep line at the back of the piece. It is meant to hold a phone, ipad letters etc. What I was hoping to do was to drill out a hole in the center at the bottom that would allow a phone or ipad to stand up, but have a plug be able to enter through the bottom of the piece to charge it while it stood.

Question is this. Should I cut out the line first or should I drill the hole first and then cut the line? The overall thicknees of the wood is 1 5/8" red oak.
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post #6 of 9 Old 01-28-2015, 08:53 PM
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I'm having difficulty visualizing what you are trying to do. As best as I can guess I believe I would route the back out first. You would need to fit the phone in the slot to determine where to place the holes for the plug and wire.
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post #7 of 9 Old 01-28-2015, 09:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by arvanlaar View Post
Since you are always super helpful Steve, can I ask you another question?

I plan to cut/route out a 1" deep line at the back of the piece. It is meant to hold a phone, ipad letters etc. What I was hoping to do was to drill out a hole in the center at the bottom that would allow a phone or ipad to stand up, but have a plug be able to enter through the bottom of the piece to charge it while it stood.

Question is this. Should I cut out the line first or should I drill the hole first and then cut the line? The overall thicknees of the wood is 1 5/8" red oak.
Well, I'm not Steve but I'd say drill the hole first. If you try to drill the hole after the slot is cut you run the risk of the drill bit deflecting dues to lack of support on 2 sides. Not to mention if you drill the hole and then cut the slot cutting the slot will get rid of any tear out from the drill

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post #8 of 9 Old 01-29-2015, 08:59 AM Thread Starter
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You are not Steve but I think you are right. That's what I was thinking but I wanted to make sure. Thanks for that :)
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post #9 of 9 Old 03-06-2015, 07:35 PM
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For every dish that I've ever carved, I use a home-made depth gauge.
I dig one groove down the centerline. Measure. When I get to the depth that I need (rough-out), I scribble pencil in the bottom of the groove.
Carve parallel grooves and eventually knock out the ribs in between.

The tool has a fixed arm (1) and a sliding arm (2). Here, showing 1/2" between the fingertips. The extra vertical pointer is attached to the slider and the measurements are made along the spine.

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