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I think you basically answered my question, I am getting the 1 hp dust collector, which is at 7 amps. Again I specifically stated I am not redoing the electrical.
I didn't have the dust collector, so I could not measure it, I was deciding which collector to buy which could work with my new 13 amp saw on a 20 amp circuit. Lot of this is getting off topic, and making assumptions - since there is ONE outlet in the garage, its definitely all on one fuse. Nothing I described really should exceed 20 amps in how its used, obviously not everything is being run at the exact same time, or actual amperage is lower than stated, and just assuming the fuse is bad sidetracks everything. I know how to measure amps, and will keep these issues on my radar.
Most homeowners, casual users, will hook up a vac of some sort to their saw, the new ones all have ports, they are not going to think about the electrical until their fuse starts popping. I assume this is why the low end delta is 13 amp (same as the lowest end ryobi tablesaw), partly why I got it over the higher end version was the slightly lower amperage, and probably why the low end 1 hp dust collector is 7 amps, they designed the saw to be sold to the homeowner with a single circuit in their garage. Just reading about the history of saws, a lot of the reasons why they are designed as they are, is what the average customers electrical is set up for, higher end saws in contrast need electricians to wire circuits for them, and often have special plugs. If i was doing that I would be getting a sawstop, not the lowest end delta.
As I get this working I will be measuring the actual amps, if its an issue then I will be adjusting the table to use less, not the electrical. When not in use, its not plugged in. Please focus on the point here, how do I design this "table" so it runs on one 20 amp circuit, ideally one where it can run a few other things which draw very little power, using ACTUAL amperage.
This is casual use, not continuous, machines which use a lot of amps are run at different times. The main issue is startup which spikes "higher" than stated amps, which should describe the running load. I am doing this with the assumption that I will be starting the saw only after the collector is at full speed. I also only need to do so many cuts to make frames, probably in comparison to others usage, mine will be lighter. I will likely use it for bigger projects intermittently, but this isn't for 3 hours at a time, hence the 80% does not apply. Most likely it will be on for a little bit, then off, and the whole thing will be unplugged after an hour or two. This basically means I can do it to 100%, not to just 80%, and be within code. Now there is nothing wrong with having a nice safe extra margin, its probably a good idea if you are setting up electrical for your shop, but its just not required here.
Even then a 2 hp dust collector really seems to require it's own circuit, even at 12 amps instead of is rated 20 amps, which is my original question, based on this so far, my conclusion that is just too much, and even my 9 hp shop vac is too much juice, so I went and got a 1 hp HF dust collector, with a induction motor, and will just deal with it being underpowered. Sounds like it works fine as far moving chips if hooked up to a single tool but is pushing things, and really not geared for fine dust collection.
Running the HF 1 hp full without any pipes or bags, then turning the saw on, both are able to run at full, the 9 amp rigid shop vac is audibly affected by the saw starting. Since the saw is 13 amps, and largely I won't be running other things beyond lights, should not be an issue even if its running at full stated amps, since it adds up to 20, and my fuse is 20.
Note I am not really using the saw at this point, I am just testing it to see if it can run, and will have actual measurements before I start using the saw under load. Dust collectors without ducts and bags and the like will run at far higher amperage than one which is doing the work of pulling dust from tools. Until I have it all set up and hooked up to ducts, it is premature to test the amperage being used.
Again, my parameters for this discussion are:
- I am not planning on staying where I am long enough to warrant a electrician inspecting, or even coming out. If I had one come out and check things, I would either just set up dedicated lines for everything, including 220v, or set up the electrical myself and have someone I hire double check I ran everything right and perhaps do the final hookup to the main fuse box. But its not really an option.
- My goal is making a single table which runs at 20 amps at most, ideally with enough extra so it does not preclude having lights on and a few other things on, which I can plug into an outlet via extension cord. I plan on moving this really heavy table to whereever my art studio is. If other things are an issue I won't run them at the same time, same as we can't run the toaster and the microwave at the same time without blowing a fuse.
- I am specifically trying to be portable. My goal is to be able to move quickly, to have this setup in a way that fits onto a liftgate of a rented truck, and can be rolled into a new location and be ready to use once its plugged in. I am not building a workshop, its a table which lets me do wood working, so as long as I have a 20 amp circuit, I can use this.
- Since the 1hp is rather underpowered, I am looking at the ducts being as efficient and short as possible. Really this is probably going to be trial and error mostly, but since I had to compromise on power, I have to really ensure this is optimized. The dust collection port on the saw is rather small, so might be revising that.
- I also got a amperage LCD display which I can wire into the electrical directly, so I can keep track of it all the time. Planning on having one console where everything is controlled, with wiring set up so I can adjust it as needed, or have things turn on autmoatically. Using PVC to run lines to each device, which adds more safety. Also using GFCI outlets to detect shorts.
- Part of this is curiosity, and I am a computer programmer, and have been making computer circuits for years, have done both computer repair and was a wire dog in the military, so wanting to look at things like pneumatic controls, small computers, automatically opening gates, and other automation. Some of the home brew CNC machines features are probably going to be added in eventually, though this is secondary, mostly right now the goal is to make the top and sides squared so I can add accurate rails at some point.
I am looking at a three stated switch to turn the dust collector on, which is wired to both the 1 hp dust collector and the shop vac, this is important since both seem to do better at different things, and being on the same switch, ensures I am not running both at the same time. I want to run the shop vac when I am using handheld power tools like my sander, and the dust collector with the saw/router. But when I am just sanding, I might just use both together since its 7 amps and 9 amps ( per their rated amps ), well below the 20 amps, and be able to have a down draft table.
Thinking of adding an air tank and a .75 hp air compressor, this looks like 3-4 amps relatively quiet, and should not be running at the same time I am running the saw/dust collector. Rather the air tank will be full. I would like to look at using compressed air to open and close the gates, but this is mostly aimed at learning how pneumatically controls work, and a brad nailer. It might lose too much air velocity if I add in gates.
All of these will will be put into the heart of the table, soas to muffle and limit the noise with a very solid enclosure, and a baffle for the exhaust, since its an art studio noise is an issue. Obviously you can only do so much, but the goal is to minimize it as much as possible.
Right now I have a torsion box setup for the base, putting in locking casters ( rated at 500 lbs each ) and have some heavy duty rubber brackets which I have attached the dust collector to minimize noise. Dedicated 4" pvc "sewer" pipe is hooked up to the blower. The whole thing looks like something out of the steam punk scene, like a rocket on the back of a sled.