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post #1 of 5 Old 11-16-2011, 10:37 AM Thread Starter
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Spraying polyurethane/need help

I own a wood shop and we'd like to spray high gloss polyurethane (clear and black) on our wood-veneered cabinets. What are the best products to use? Sherwin Williams products takes weeks to gas off. We need something that cures much more quickly for quick turnaround. Any help would be appreciated.
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post #2 of 5 Old 11-16-2011, 10:55 AM
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Originally Posted by kathygornik View Post
I own a wood shop and we'd like to spray high gloss polyurethane (clear and black) on our wood-veneered cabinets. What are the best products to use? Sherwin Williams products takes weeks to gas off. We need something that cures much more quickly for quick turnaround. Any help would be appreciated.


I would stay away from oil base polyurethanes. They are difficult to spray, as they are heavy bodied, and can run easily. They stay wet too long...long enough for anything and everything to land on.

I would suggest a waterbase polyurethane. It dries fast, no appreciable odor, and cleans up with water. I've switched from lacquer to WB polyurethane, and IMO, it's as durable as lacquer. HD carries a few types. Parks Pro Finisher works very well.









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post #3 of 5 Old 11-16-2011, 12:34 PM
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Agree, for spraying poly, water based is the way to go.

Go to Target Coatings web-site they have all the info there and you can call them for advice.

Just a side note, spraying WB poly is a totally different experience, takes a lot of trial and error and experience. The operating window between a wet coat and running, or sags is very narrow compared to spraying Lacquer, gun set up, tip size, distance from gun to piece all are critical. Also there is some leveling and flow of the finish directly after application, something to get used to. Also each brand has its own tricks.
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post #4 of 5 Old 11-16-2011, 12:40 PM
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+1 on spraying WB poly. Love the stuff. As has been mentioned there was an initial learning curve but now it's a pleasure to use. You basically just want to get the wood wet. I find that applying more thin coats yeilds better results than fewer thicker ones.
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post #5 of 5 Old 11-17-2011, 06:03 AM
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For brush coat, I have been using a Rustoleum brand water based clear "ultra cover, Painters touch". Beauty is it leaves little or no bubbles from the brush bristles, unlike any polyurethane I've used. It's quite thick like latex house paint. I don't know of the durability, but I use it in severe conditions where I'm covering bark or interior log rot. I also use it on end grains for wood drying, to prevent a color from seeping deep into the grain, and making sanding the surface to get color out impossible. I don't (or rarely) use it for the flat area finish coats. On the rot/bark, I literally pour the paint on the surface and brush it in to prevent runs, and lay it flat for the same reason.

They also make a spray bomb, which I don't know the base material to it. I presume it's lacquer, but has a acetone/xylene odor. Not like when I used to paint cars. It works well for surfaces, but as you complain about, the off gassing lasts a long time.

Would I prefer to use a spray gun setup? You bet. It's just not possible in my garage, and the upcoming impending cold temps make most things impossible.
......
Comments on this rustoleum product would be appreciated, but I don't want to hijack a thread here.

Last edited by aardvark; 11-17-2011 at 06:09 AM.
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