Red Oak Stair Treads - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
 
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post #1 of 6 Old 02-26-2013, 03:16 AM Thread Starter
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Red Oak Stair Treads

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Replacing old stair treads with new unfinished red oak treads. I plan on using a Dark Walnut stain but unsure about how may coats of Poly I need to apply for stairs that get a fair amount of traffic.

NORSEMAN
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post #2 of 6 Old 02-26-2013, 12:48 PM
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If you are going to use poly on them, I'd recommend 4 or 5 thin coats, dried THOROUGHLY and sanded lightly between coats. You want to coat them well, but if a coat is too thick, it will inhibit hardening. The same goes for drying. If it doesn't dry completely and you recoat too soon, you inhibit the hardening, and for stairs, you want it as hard as it can be. Some people might recommend more coats, but I'm not sure how much you would gain by that.
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post #3 of 6 Old 02-26-2013, 05:40 PM
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For high traffic areas, a commercial grade of "moisture cure" poly will provide the greatest durability. This finish is commonly used in high traffic areas, such as shopping center floors.
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post #4 of 6 Old 02-26-2013, 07:11 PM
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scsmith42, have you used this type of finish? I have not heard of it, so I've googled it and read a variety of information about it. Some say it's great, several say it's extremely toxic(made with toluene and xylene) and off-gasses for a month. One floor finisher said the company he worked with used it for about 5 years, but he'd never use it again. Manufacturer's sites say that, depending on the chemical formulations, it could range from very hard to very flexible. One person says it has to be applied by a licensed professional. So, I'm wondering if you have any personal experience using it, and if so, what that experience was?
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post #5 of 6 Old 02-26-2013, 07:20 PM
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Might be a plan to use a paste sealer for the pores/vessels in red oak.
Dried, you sand it back then stain and finish coat.
Otherwise any and all stains and finishes will soak into the body of the wood just as far as the vessels run = pour it on one end, it will leak out the other.
Take a 6' red oak board and put one end in a bucket of water. Blow into the other end.
Not so with white oak.
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post #6 of 6 Old 02-26-2013, 11:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mmwood_1 View Post
scsmith42, have you used this type of finish? I have not heard of it, so I've googled it and read a variety of information about it. Some say it's great, several say it's extremely toxic(made with toluene and xylene) and off-gasses for a month. One floor finisher said the company he worked with used it for about 5 years, but he'd never use it again. Manufacturer's sites say that, depending on the chemical formulations, it could range from very hard to very flexible. One person says it has to be applied by a licensed professional. So, I'm wondering if you have any personal experience using it, and if so, what that experience was?
Yes, I have personal experience with it. Matter of fact, it's the finish that I used in my house when I replaced the floors about 7 years ago. It is only available from professional finishing supply houses, but it's the most durable wood floor finish that I'm aware of.

Yes, it is toxic but the out-gassing is only a few days. Wear a respirator when applying it (it goes on similar to regular poly). Also, I would recommend the "non-yellowing" formula; you won't believe the difference in 10 - 20 years.
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