Originally Posted by John Smith_inFL
oh - since these machines turn at a very low speed, you could consider making a
wheel out of a 3/4" plastic cutting board and glue Wet-or-Dry paper to it of any
grit you like. you can hollow out the center hole with a hand-held router.
(just thinking out loud here)
But, there are many online places that sell vitrified green grinding wheels:
the Makito stones appear to be 8.5 inches in diameter. other more 'common' stones tend to 7" diameter.
most of the 'non-brand-but-maybe-compatible' don't list the interior diameter - which...is important when it comes to 'fitting' them on a Makita.
thickness is a secondary issue - many ways to compensate for a thickness other than the OEM.
So the Makita stones are 200mm x 75mm x 25mm (outer diameter x "arbor hole" diameter, wheel thickness), which is approx. 8in x 3in x 1in. To secure the wheel to the spindle, the grinding wheel is attached to a thin steel backplate which is tightened in with a lock nut.
I was seriously considering buying a Norton grinding wheel meant for a bench grinder, getting a diamond core/hole saw drill bit that was 3in wide & boring out the center arbor hole.
To stabilize it, I'd just ask a local machine shop to cut an 8" maybe 1/8" thick steel plate and I can use a serious (marine) epoxy or something to secure the bottom disk to the grinding wheel.
My New Questions, then would be...
1) Can I use any of those wheels in a wet grind application even though they're meant for a dry bench grinder? How different is the material used in their grinding wheels compared to their whetstones?
2) What abrasive medium(s) would be best? I'm mostly interested in coarser but quality green silicon carbide, ceramic aluminum oxide, or white/"pure" aluminum oxide. I've got medium and fine grits locked down (1000 and 6000 grits in knife-sharpening terms), but I get a lot of damaged & chewed up knives so removing material is a VERY essential time saver. Time is money.
3) I understand that *technically* silicon carbide is better for softer, nonferrous alloys and less so for carbon steel/stainless steel, but what's stopping me from using them in those applications? What are the concerns with silicon carbide?
4) Does anyone have any thoughts on Norton products? Should I be looking at any other brands?
5) I would consider other grinding wheel materials like CBN, but none of the wheels out there are designed to be sharpened on the flat, profile side of the grinding wheel in a flat-sharpening application? Everything I've seen are all designed to be used in an upright position like a standard bench grinder or a Tormek/Tormek clone.