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post #1 of 13 Old 03-04-2008, 08:15 AM Thread Starter
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Hi everybody. I just registered and wanted to say hello. I've built a dream shop and now I'm buying some equipment. I'm new at woodworking like doing cabinets etc. but I've build alot of garages, sheds, major additions, etc. I'm looking forward to learning all I can from you experts.

Bud
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post #2 of 13 Old 03-04-2008, 09:14 AM
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Welcome to the club Bud, from looking at your screen name im guessing you're a Ridgid man like myself? Jeremy

........................www.Jeremydillardwoodworking.com.........................

"Only those who risk going too far, can possibly know how far they can go"
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post #3 of 13 Old 03-04-2008, 09:17 AM
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Bud, I noticed your occupation. When you say tooling engineer I guess that means tooling for the machine tooling industry? of course at a woodworking forum I automatically have visions of a guy who sits around all day drawing up plans for all sorts of cool woodworking power tools!

I would like to see your dream shop. I have mine thrown together sort of out of necessity but one year, this one hopefully, I have to really sit down and put some thought into how I want to arrange it. Everything has wheels except my tablesaw and I have made the decison to relegate it to 100% ripping operations and get a Festool TS75 for all my other tablesaw needs. So i am really going to be flexible on how I arrange it.

We have "Show Us Your Shop" section that i peruse often I hope you will add your photos to it for thecollective knowledge base. We aren't a "Show Off" braggy bunch of guys here we simply like to see each others' shop.

Welcome to the community. We ain't perfect but we have a pretty nice atmosphere here so feel right at home.
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post #4 of 13 Old 03-04-2008, 10:19 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the welcome guys. I'll post some pictures of my shop when I get a chance and figure out how. I will tell you that it is the second floor of a 30 x 40 garage. It's pretty adequate in space. Being on the secong floor is a little inconveinient but I can deal with it. Sometimes you don't get everythjing you want. Yes, I just bought the Ridgid TS3660. I have looked at that saw for over a year and researched it alot. Sure, a Powermattic66 or a Unisaw would have been nicer, but the reality is I don't NEED a top notch saw and I didn't want to spend that kind of money. Maybe someday, but not at this time. Also, from the reviews on the Ridgid, it might just be the last saw I ever need. Oh, the 3660 is a BRAND NEW model. It replaces the 3650. And when it went on sale from $549 to $467, I couldn't pas it up.
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post #5 of 13 Old 03-04-2008, 10:28 AM
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Wow. Google sure does love Woodworkingtalk.com! I just typed in "TS3660" to read a review of the saw and the TOP link is the profile for YOU . . . . . TS3660!

This post wont hurt either. you ought to do a review of your saw soon as you can in the Tool Review section.
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post #6 of 13 Old 03-04-2008, 11:02 AM
 
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welcome to the site hope it helps you as much as me
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post #7 of 13 Old 03-04-2008, 11:36 AM Thread Starter
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Here's just one of the reviews I read before I bought.

http://benchmark.20m.com/reviews/Rid...650Review.html
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post #8 of 13 Old 03-04-2008, 11:52 AM
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Welcome aboard Bud! Hope you spend some of the savings on a nice blade and/or precision miter gauge for that rig! Be safe and have fun...
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post #9 of 13 Old 03-04-2008, 12:18 PM Thread Starter
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Glad you brought the blade issue up, Scott. Yes, I do plan to upgrade the 40T blade. I'm not sure what I need yet. What do they call the teeth on a blade (angled vs. straight) and do I need the straight tooth on every third tooth? I was just at Lowes and they have an 80T Freud for $54 but there's no straight teeth on it. It simply has every tooth on opposite angles.

Last edited by TS3660; 03-04-2008 at 12:44 PM.
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post #10 of 13 Old 03-04-2008, 01:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TS3660 View Post
Glad you brought the blade issue up, Scott. Yes, I do plan to upgrade the 40T blade. I'm not sure what I need yet. What do they call the teeth on a blade (angled vs. straight) and do I need the straight tooth on every third tooth? I was just at Lowes and they have an 80T Freud for $54 but there's no straight teeth on it. It simply has every tooth on opposite angles.
What suits your needs depends alot on what you'll be doing. Here's a link to Saw Blades 101 that should be helpful. If you pick a good quality name like Forrest, Infinity, Freud, Ridge Carbide, Tenryu, Amana, etc., don't worry about the grade of carbide...you choose the grind and application, they'll choose the best carbide for the application.

Here's some more comments and ratings on some blades I've tried.

The stock blade will cut wood ok for the time being, so take your time setting the saw up well and choosing a good deal on a great blade.
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post #11 of 13 Old 03-04-2008, 02:42 PM Thread Starter
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ok, thanks Scott. I have another question. WHen I assembled the saw, I noticed that both wings angle upward just a tad. The outermost part is about .020 higher than the main table. When I put a staight edge on the table spanning everything, I can get a .020 shim under it on the main table. Being a tool designer, I work with machine tools and here's what I think I'd do. I would remove the wings and file the edge where it meets the main table. I'd file an ever so slight angle on it. The wing is about 13" wide so if I file .001 off of it, angling toward the bottom, it should drop the end of the wing by approx. .013, because the ratio is 1/13. But if I file too much, and when I put it back on, if it dips down, that's an easy fix by shimming it at the bottom. But angling up like it is now, I can't very well shim it at the top. So I figure I'll file it and then shim at the bottom if need be. Am I thinking right?

Bud

"Veggie burgers aren't bad if you put enough meat on them"
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post #12 of 13 Old 03-04-2008, 03:26 PM
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I would try a very fine shim from the top before filing the wings....just loosen the wings, you shouldn't need to remove them to do that. Light sand paper at the bottom edge is less agressive. Even if you left it alone, this is wood....it'll move that much between a humid and dry day. For the saw's surface to make a noticeable impact on the actual cut would take a deviation that's darn near big enough to see with the naked eye....in reality, it depends on where the deviations are located on the table. I'd try some test cuts and see what you get before I started into filing the edges.

The place to get picky is with the alignments... blade/fence/miter slot, 90/45 settings. Those deviations are more linear and can cause kickback and/or can get multiplied and impact results.

Last edited by knotscott; 03-04-2008 at 03:28 PM.
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post #13 of 13 Old 03-04-2008, 04:19 PM Thread Starter
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Got it. Thanks Scott.

Bud

"Veggie burgers aren't bad if you put enough meat on them"
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