Well Done Tony B, great reply! and photos as well. I make zero clearance inserts that fit inside the stock throat plate gap on my Craftsman saw. They are about 1/2" wide, 1/8th thick and fit in the rounded gap. I tape them in from the back side and raise the blade as you suggest with pressure down from the top. I rip a bunch of them to width, 1/2", round the corners on the disc sander and I'm good for lots of cuts. I don't have to accomodate the leveling screws since I'm using the stock plate to start with. They are pretty much disposable without much of a loss in time or material. A little off the question here but a good tip is still a good tip! A router insert needs to be rigid, so the thicker the better. Aluminum, plexiglass/Lexan, any stiff hardwood are all good. And leveling screws are a must, since a hangup will cause a burn mark or a bump....not good. Tony B's technique for making a the inserts would still apply however. Make several with different dia holes for different size cutters if changing out the router isn't too time consuming. I have a MastRlift and love it. All height adjustments are from the top with a crank. What a time saver.Bill
Last edited by woodnthings; 01-24-2009 at 05:49 PM.