Hi, New to woodwork, and need help. - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
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post #1 of 22 Old 06-26-2008, 12:37 PM Thread Starter
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Hi, New to woodwork, and need help.

Hi

My name is Graham, and I have very little experience working with wood.

I want to make a wooden clock from my parents Christmas this year, and as my parents know that I am useless with wood - it will mean a lot to them.

The clock is to have 3 wooden towers, on blocks - which will indicate the time Hrs, Mins, and Secs respectivly.

The towers need to be hollow, and I will need to be able to put the clock components into them, and thats where i am struggling.

I have attached a picture, I want to inlay some simple decoration (the 2 vertical stripes on each tower)

How can i open up the towers to put the parts in, then join them again neatly, as I want to laquer the entire clock - but cannot sand over the clock parts.

I was thinking of an OAK/CHERRY combination, but would welcome ideas that you think would be better.

Thanks in Advance

Graham
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Last edited by Gangsta; 06-26-2008 at 12:39 PM.
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post #2 of 22 Old 06-26-2008, 12:59 PM
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You could use PVC pipe for the towers. Easy to mill and can be gelstained to match wood. I am sure someone will have a better idea for you if you can wait a few more days. Welcome to the thread.

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post #3 of 22 Old 06-26-2008, 02:16 PM Thread Starter
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Hi Handyman,

Thanks for the welcome.

I would really like to make this from wood if at all possible.

Im a geeky type (you can probably tell from the style of clock), and could knock up something from plastic and/or metel on one of our CNC machines with no trouble at all - but the real value in this project will be that I made it by hand (well mostly anyway)
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post #4 of 22 Old 06-26-2008, 04:26 PM
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you had said you wanted to make it out of cherry and oak... i would say try a red oak walnut combo i have used that on some of my projects its a great contrast. but what i am trying to say is go for like a dark/light contrast. other then that i cant help you with how to make the towers sorry man

~Jake Mendez
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post #5 of 22 Old 06-26-2008, 04:48 PM
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I second the Red Oak/Walnut combination.

They work very well together. As for loading the clockworks, how about drilling from the bottom, inserting the inerds and closing with a removable plug concealed by some felt on the bottom.

Ed
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post #6 of 22 Old 06-26-2008, 06:17 PM
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mill some stock 2.5"x2.5" cut them to size then use a DP to hollow out and a round over bit to get them round I am sure someone will have another way of doin it just wait a bit



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post #7 of 22 Old 07-04-2008, 02:58 PM
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Hello

Glad to have you on the forum.
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post #8 of 22 Old 07-04-2008, 04:36 PM
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Hay Grahm, thats a very interesting looking clock...either I forgot how to tell time...or I just don`t get it!! At any rate, It does`nt look like you`ll need to bore the top hole all the way through. I think it`s built in such a way to make it look like it was through drilled. The inlays in the front are shallow...the larger one in the back looks removeable. I need to see the works! First I would turn three collumns...well, after making the base , whatever! Then bore a relief in the top about 1" deep. Next, insert a square piece with a turned step down to snugly fit in the top so you can run the relief for the inlay...(this will keep the cylinder stable enough to plow a dado for the inlay... and the back access strip). This is how I would make it...also I would use maple with walnut inlay. Hope this helps Rick

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post #9 of 22 Old 07-04-2008, 04:45 PM
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The plastic glow lense or glass is another story...looks simple enough...if you can find the lense or window...maybe it comes with the works!

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post #10 of 22 Old 07-05-2008, 10:09 AM Thread Starter
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Hi, the lenses are to tops of LEDs, they are crystal clear when turned off, and glow a nice blue when lit.

I have attached a drawing showing the innards of the columns, all three are identical. There is a small switch on the top, which i was going to glue onto the reddish colourd discs on the main pictures of the clock. These are for setting the time, eg to increase the hours - you press down briefly on the top of the left tower.

It is a binary clock, i have included a pic explaining how it works. it takes a few days to get used to - but after that it can be as natural as reading any other clock.

I have been experementing with some quarter dowel, gluing the bits together to form the shape, but its not going that well so i'll tray a few more of the suggestions on here as soon as i get time.

Thanks for everyones help so far
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post #11 of 22 Old 07-05-2008, 09:28 PM
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Wow... you ARE a geek... LOL... (A budding IT guy here...) A binary clock.... very interesting. Don't know that I've ever seen one.

Soooo... why do you need the 6th LED on the hours column? Just to stay consistent? In fact, if it is a 12 hour clock, you only need 4 LEDs...
Do they three work together? Almost have to, huh?

You gotta post a pic, or better yet a video, of the finished product.

Welcome to the forum, noob... LOL

I cut that board three times and it's STILL too short!!!...
http://www.geocities.com/capt9992002
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post #12 of 22 Old 07-06-2008, 10:23 AM Thread Starter
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Yup im a geek - and proud of IT (pun intended - lol)

The extra led is just for consistency, so the 3 towers can be made the same.

I have it working on breadboard (just seconds and minutes just now - purely because i dont have enough room on my board, but the hours are exactly the same) again in my tests, i use red LEDs as you can buy 1000 of them for what it costs for 50 wide angle blue ones.

I'll post up a vid in a few minutes

Going out on a limb, can anyone suggest an alternative to my tower design that may be easier for a new woodworker like me to build, it could be anything as long as it has room for 3 rows (or columns) of LEDS

video - only 20 seconds
http://www.youtube.com/v/f1sKfp4v9-U

Last edited by Gangsta; 07-06-2008 at 10:50 AM. Reason: adding video
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post #13 of 22 Old 07-06-2008, 10:36 AM
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An easier way would be to build square collumns or octagon shaped...you`re still going to have a fair amount of drilling and mortising.

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post #14 of 22 Old 07-07-2008, 10:14 AM
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My comment is a combination of TOP's and PIANOMAN's...start with square stock, rip it in half and mill out the centers to hold your wiring, glue them back together (the grain will almost match if you use a thin kerf blade), then use a roundover bit in a table mounted router to make them into large dowels. Drill the LED holes while it is still square.
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post #15 of 22 Old 07-08-2008, 04:05 AM Thread Starter
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now were getting somewhere, thanks that sounds much easier, where couldi i get one of these thin blades in the uk - are they generally easy to get hold of?

I'll go to the diy shop today and see what they have.
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post #16 of 22 Old 07-24-2008, 07:16 PM
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video - only 20 seconds
http://www.youtube.com/v/f1sKfp4v9-U

Is it just me, or does this not work? I would love to see this if someone can tell me how to get it to work. It is a very interesting project and I for one would like to see the final outcome.

Jay
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post #17 of 22 Old 07-25-2008, 10:50 AM Thread Starter
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hi

try this

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f1sKfp4v9-U

I think youtube must have changed something.

I have made my first columns, they are square at the moment and im gonna try and run them through the lathe to make then round.

will get some photos of how they turn out.
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post #18 of 22 Old 07-25-2008, 03:28 PM
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Thanks Gangsta

It worked this time. I didn't really see anything that was telling me what it was, or how it worked, or anything else. But, it still sounds interesting and I'm looking forward to seeing some pic's when you get it done. Or even while your doing it if you want.

I liked your idea about the blue lights. I love blue. Or I should say the right color blue.

Jay
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post #19 of 22 Old 08-10-2008, 08:50 AM
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Turn them on a lathe.

Take 2 rectangular pieces of stock slightly longer than needed. The end measurements of the total of the two pieces laid flat together should form a square 1/2" bigger than the outside diameter needed.
First, route out both pieces so that if they were put together, they would have a hollow down the middle big enough for the clock parts to fit in.
Next, Glue these 2 pieces together.
Next, make what is known as a jam chuck for the lathe. If not familiar, say so, and I will elaborate. I'm not trying to be rude, just that I am at work, at my time slots to play are limited.
Next, turn the piece to diameter.
DONE!!!

Thats the short version. Her comes the slightly longer version.
When I want to inlay something that will be turned on a lathe, I dont really inlay, I glue up a laminate of the 2 woods that way, I cant possibly turn it past the depth of the inlay.
If, for assembly reasons, the columns must come apart AFTER they are turned you can A). glue them together with a hot glue gun and they will separate easily or B) When you glue up, glue a piece of paper between the joints. and with a chisel, they will separate with some effort but they shoule split evenly along the glue line which is actually the paper joint.

I know what is in my head, but not sure if I am explaining it right.

Wish you luck

Tony B
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post #20 of 22 Old 08-12-2008, 08:04 PM
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It should be possible to make these "tubes" into any shape: cylindrical, squares, rectangular, or any number of more organic shapes and wood patterns if you were to hollow them out and finish them as if they were bandsaw boxes. You didn't mention how tall the tubes are, but if you can fit them under the upper guides of a bandsaw, this will work. I just tried it on a piece of cherry-- 2"D x 5"H and by the time the glue-up is complete you would be hard pressed to see a glue line. Don't glue the lid back on, and you will increase the GEE WHIZ factor by removing it and being able to show people how you did it. Just a thought----hope it helps. Sure frees up your design possibilities, widekerf
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