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post #1 of 12 Old 11-05-2011, 06:07 PM Thread Starter
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Hey all!

New here and have always been fascinated with woodworking. Cabinetry in particular but really any good piece of woodworking doesn't go unappreciated.

About me:

I moved a GREAT deal growing up from father being in the military and then his promotions moving us from satellite office to satellite office. I have strong relationship with my family and, at 36, have a decent sized family of my own.

I have a wonderful wife and three children: two daughters at 15 and 17 (17 year old is in college) and a 2 year old son. Yes... I started early. haha.

My grandfather was a hobby woodworker as well as my father. Well, they were hobbyist electricians, welders... take a pick. Jack of trades sorts. Their wood work always fascinated me but... I just stayed so busy growing up I never took the time to learn from them. I regret that dearly now.

Over the years, I have made friends that are amazing carpenters and, now that life is slowing down a bit for me, I am wanting to go beyond building steps which involves no more than a drill and a compound saw.

I am SO looking forward to even the most basic of cabinetry that I am just beside myself.

As well, I am looking forward to picking the brains of several on this board for their knowledge and getting far enough along where maybe I can give information to the following cast of newbies.

As a life long musician, if I can EVER build cabinets for amplifers and speakers like my friend Scott can, I don't know what I'd do with myself. I'd never make a dime cause I'd just look at the finished work and not sell it. haha.

My friend Scott's work: http://www.trilliumamps.com/

Look forward to posting on here!

The Squirrel
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post #2 of 12 Old 11-05-2011, 06:36 PM
where's my table saw?
 
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Great to combine 2 different interests!

My first real woodworking projects were speaker cabinets. Rabbet joints in plywood was about it if I remember. I do remember mounting a SP15 Electrovice full range spaeker on a 3/4" plywood and screwing it in the closet opening leaving a gap for a bass reflex port. I could vibrate the entire 3 story apartment building with a 25 watt amp. Then it was on to bigger and better amps and speakers.
Those are beauties that Scott has done for sure, but they combine some traditional joinery, dovetails and some routing techniques, that once you get the hang of it won't seem all that threatening. A router is a wonderful thing and with patterns can create complex shapes. The dovetails can be done by hand or with a router and jig.

So, start your wish list with one of those! I recommend a Milwaukee 5625 like this: http://www.amazon.com/Milwaukee-5625-20-2-Horsepower-Variable-Adjustment/dp/B00007FPJK
It's reasonably priced, has great hand controls, is smooth and powerful and best of all has a height adjustment screw in the base, so when it's upside down in a table you can easily adjust the height.

Yah, we'll be glad to point you in the wrong direction every chance we can, after all it's only money.... welcome to Ya, bill

You don't plan on building any squirrel houses do you?

The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)
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post #3 of 12 Old 11-05-2011, 06:48 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by woodnthings
My first real woodworking projects were speaker cabinets. Rabbet joints in plywood was about it if I remember. I do remember mounting a SP15 Electrovice full range spaeker on a 3/4" plywood and screwing it in the closet opening leaving a gap for a bass reflex port. I could vibrate the entire 3 story apartment building with a 25 watt amp. Then it was on to bigger and better amps and speakers.
Those are beauties that Scott has done for sure, but they combine some traditional joinery, dovetails and some routing techniques, that once you get the hang of it won't seem all that threatening. A router is a wonderful thing and with patterns can create complex shapes. The dovetails can be done by hand or with a router and jig.

So, start your wish list with one of those! I recommend a Milwaukee 5625 like this: Video Link: http://www.amazon.com/Milwaukee-5625-20-2-Horsepower-Variable-Adjustment/dp/B00007FPJK

It's reasonably priced, has great hand controls, is smooth and powerful and best of all has a height adjustment screw in the base, so when it's upside down in a table you can easily adjust the height.

Yah, we'll be glad to point you in the wrong direction every chance we can, after all it's only money.... welcome to Ya, bill

You don't plan on building any squirrel houses do you?
No, no squirrel houses. Haha. They seem to have no residency issues around here. That router is indeed nice but out of my ability to afford, sadly. Things got tough a year ago but I'm almost back out of the woods. Maybe in the next year I can aspire to such a tool but for now I just gotta lean on my Dremel and its attachments. I hope Dremel isnt a dirty word around these parts. :(
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post #4 of 12 Old 11-05-2011, 07:23 PM
where's my table saw?
 
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No problem

Dremel and squirrel have about the same reputation here...they both can chew through wood are about the same size, and are associated with nuts. bill

The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)
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post #5 of 12 Old 11-05-2011, 07:40 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by woodnthings
Dremel and squirrel have about the same reputation here...they both can chew through wood are about the same size, and are associated with nuts. bill
Haha. Yeah. Not planning anything bigger than a bread box. :)
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post #6 of 12 Old 11-05-2011, 09:26 PM
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Built some home stereo speakers from 3/4" high density mdf board , and surfaced em with flecktone paint (which looks sorta like the old GM trunk paint w/ flecks). Then oak edging and heavy clearcoat. If you use too thin sides the sound escapes, and there is the whole acoustic issue of cabinet size matching the speakers for optimum resonance. Every speaker mfgr has specs and you design cabinet acoustics to that.
Crossover network circuitry is an art and I will claim ignorance in the engineering and cheated using others designs. Each speaker has a specific frequency range that must not be surpassed and then there is the concept of making one speakers frequency not "cross-over" the other. Each individual speaker in the box can (I believe should) have it's separate tuned case framed, since it controls each speakers resonance and doesn't allow one to effect the other. Then there is the issue of wether to port the cavity or not (do you want boomy or truer bass).

There was a magazine called "Speaker Builder" (imagine that, eh?). Dunno if they still exist. It's heavy duty information from a design, circuitry, acoustics standpoint and does give box designs, which are generally cheesy looking plywood. Standard wood isn't good, and leaks sound to easily.

So theres a lot of engineering that goes into them, and then you get to plug them in, drop in "A Momentary Lapse of Reason", by Pink Floyd...crack a few hundred amps power and see how bad she shudders and shakes the room. Tie down the glassware ,,,it;s going for a ride on the shelves.

I sold a few Sub/Satellite systems and have a tower setup and a complete surround system with 9 speakers running for basically dirt cheap (high end, all for under ~$1000). A sub under a couch will shake your friends up when it starts shaking before sound comes out at 25hz.
Speaker sound is so much an individual thing. Everyone hears different and enjoys a differing kind of sound. What you like, the next person might say sounds tinny or boomy . We all hear different.
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post #7 of 12 Old 11-05-2011, 10:19 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aardvark View Post
Built some home stereo speakers from 3/4" high density mdf board , and surfaced em with flecktone paint (which looks sorta like the old GM trunk paint w/ flecks). Then oak edging and heavy clearcoat. If you use too thin sides the sound escapes, and there is the whole acoustic issue of cabinet size matching the speakers for optimum resonance. Every speaker mfgr has specs and you design cabinet acoustics to that.
Crossover network circuitry is an art and I will claim ignorance in the engineering and cheated using others designs. Each speaker has a specific frequency range that must not be surpassed and then there is the concept of making one speakers frequency not "cross-over" the other. Each individual speaker in the box can (I believe should) have it's separate tuned case framed, since it controls each speakers resonance and doesn't allow one to effect the other. Then there is the issue of wether to port the cavity or not (do you want boomy or truer bass).

There was a magazine called "Speaker Builder" (imagine that, eh?). Dunno if they still exist. It's heavy duty information from a design, circuitry, acoustics standpoint and does give box designs, which are generally cheesy looking plywood. Standard wood isn't good, and leaks sound to easily.

So theres a lot of engineering that goes into them, and then you get to plug them in, drop in "A Momentary Lapse of Reason", by Pink Floyd...crack a few hundred amps power and see how bad she shudders and shakes the room. Tie down the glassware ,,,it;s going for a ride on the shelves.

I sold a few Sub/Satellite systems and have a tower setup and a complete surround system with 9 speakers running for basically dirt cheap (high end, all for under ~$1000). A sub under a couch will shake your friends up when it starts shaking before sound comes out at 25hz.
Speaker sound is so much an individual thing. Everyone hears different and enjoys a differing kind of sound. What you like, the next person might say sounds tinny or boomy . We all hear different.
Couldn't agree more about the engineering aspect of speaker cabinetry. That is something I have studied the theory of for a number of years as a point of interest for me. My conclusion: the best cabinet is a concrete block! haha.
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post #8 of 12 Old 11-05-2011, 10:24 PM
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Lead box.
Concretes not dense enough.
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post #9 of 12 Old 11-05-2011, 10:52 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by aardvark View Post
Lead box.
Concretes not dense enough.
I don't want to get lead poisoning though. :(

Although... it would be nice to keep Superman from seeing through it. Good thinking.

Concrete's cheaper and no will know the difference! I will however, require a roadie any time it is to be moved.

Oh, didn't know about the magazine! I will have to see if it is still around. I have books and access to amp makers but nothing like a magazine. Thanks for the heads up!
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post #10 of 12 Old 11-06-2011, 04:27 AM
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Found out the magazine is no longer in print.
It is now www.audioxpress.com
By the cover, it looks like it no longer is as "loudspeaker specific" in their writings.
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post #11 of 12 Old 11-06-2011, 04:42 AM
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post #12 of 12 Old 11-07-2011, 12:33 PM
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Welcome from Texas !!!

Welcome to the forum.
Your friends business looks great.

Tools are like guns, You can never have enough.
Where did I put that tape measure???
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