Hello from Pa - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
post #1 of 9 Old 02-09-2012, 10:09 PM Thread Starter
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Posts: 10
View willys's Photo Album My Photos
Hello from Pa

I'm a carpenter by trade, mostly commercial work. I have found that forum boards are one of the best ways to gather information. The members that use them are usually passionate about thier hobby or carear and have access to great knowledge.

I came to this site for an odd reason. My family races in Soapbox Derby. In the past the cars floorboard was allowed to be finished with Tung oil only. Then the rules changed and tung oil was no longer allowed. The rules have changed again and tung oil is once again allowed.

My question is this. What should I do to a new floarboard, with no finish on it at all, to prepare it to be finished with tung oil. I want the board to absorb as much as possible. The more it absorbs the heavier it gets, the better for racing. The wood is a soft fast growth wood. Not sure what type. It's like a butcher block with 1" wide strips finger joined and glued together.

Do I wet the board? Heat it? Thin the first coat?

If this should be in a different section I apologize.

Thank you,
Joe
willys is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 9 Old 02-10-2012, 08:00 AM
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: NW Pa
Posts: 2,933
View TimPa's Photo Album My Photos
welcome to the forum. I personally don't know of a method to allow greater fluid absorption, tung oil appears to absorb so much then stop. I doubt if it coud absorb enough to make a considerable difference in weight that could not be added elsewhere (allowed). if not allowed, maybe look for a baseboard wood species with a higher density (wt/volume)
TimPa is offline  
post #3 of 9 Old 02-10-2012, 08:03 AM
Making sawdust in MS
 
rayking49's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Philadelphia, Ms
Posts: 4,000
View rayking49's Photo Album My Photos
Welcome to the forum.

Sent from my iPhone using Wood Forum
rayking49 is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #4 of 9 Old 02-10-2012, 08:34 AM
Old School
 
cabinetman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: So. Florida
Posts: 24,027
View cabinetman's Photo Album My Photos
cabinetman is offline  
post #5 of 9 Old 02-10-2012, 10:11 PM
Senior Member
 
scootch's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Oakton, VA
Posts: 221
View scootch's Photo Album My Photos
I personally use Bush's Oil treatment, but assuming that the techniques you use with that are the same, I would sand progressively with 80, 120,180, and 220 grit, and then apply oil and wet sand with 400. Wipe the oil off after 20 minutes, and repeat as necessary. Finish without sanding and leave oil to dry to hard surface for 24 hours.
Try on sample piece first, and let me know how that works.
Scootch in Va
scootch is offline  
post #6 of 9 Old 02-11-2012, 12:12 PM
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Coastal NC
Posts: 1,160
View HowardAcheson's Photo Album My Photos
Do the rules allow you to thin the tung oil? BTW, I'm assuming that you are referring to real, pure tung oil, not one of the faux Tung Oil Finishes like Minwax Tung Oil Finish. These products are not tung oil at all, they are linseed oil and varnish.

The only way I know of to promote deeper absorption of an oil is to heat it. Heating is makes in more viscous and it should penetrate more deeply into the wood. However, if the piece you are oiling is plywood, the adhesive that glues the plies together will act as a barrier to the oil getting past the first ply.

If you have a reasonably accurate and sensitive food scale you could run some tests. Try different things and weight the the panel. See which treatment gives you the best result.

Howie..........
HowardAcheson is offline  
post #7 of 9 Old 02-11-2012, 03:11 PM
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: central PA
Posts: 371
View Kevin07's Photo Album My Photos
ive never used tung oil before but i imagine if you thinned it it would penetrate better. Aslo if there was any way to soak the entire piece of wood in if for mabe a day or 2. Just an idea.
Kevin07 is offline  
post #8 of 9 Old 02-11-2012, 03:12 PM
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: central PA
Posts: 371
View Kevin07's Photo Album My Photos
Just curious if you dont mind me asking, where in pa are you from im from mechanicsburg area.
Kevin07 is offline  
post #9 of 9 Old 02-11-2012, 09:28 PM
Senior Member
 
Lancer33's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Thailand
Posts: 149
View Lancer33's Photo Album My Photos
Welcome
Lancer33 is offline  
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in










Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Linear Mode



Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome