Make a mitered board wider without redrawing? - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
 
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post #1 of 10 Old 06-28-2014, 01:37 PM Thread Starter
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Make a mitered board wider without redrawing?

I have a simple board 3"w x 48"l x 5/8"t with 45 degree mitered ends for a simple frame. I figured out how to make it shorter while keeping the miters correct with the move tool. push/pull works just fine for thickness. But making it wider seems trickier. As I was typing this I had no clue how to make it wider because everything I did made a square come off the miter. But then I had an AHA! moment and figured out a method of using the move tool by selecting just the short side and moving it 2" (because I want it 5"). that changed my miters to 59 degrees. I used the protractor and redrew the angles and then moved the miter point to the new angle. But doing this for every component seems very annoying. Is there an easier way or am I just gonna have to be annoyed?
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post #2 of 10 Old 06-28-2014, 04:18 PM
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I am sorry, but I have absolutely no clue what you are trying to say.

George
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post #3 of 10 Old 06-28-2014, 07:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tke663 View Post
I have a simple board 3"w x 48"l x 5/8"t with 45 degree mitered ends for a simple frame. I figured out how to make it shorter while keeping the miters correct with the move tool. push/pull works just fine for thickness. But making it wider seems trickier. As I was typing this I had no clue how to make it wider because everything I did made a square come off the miter. But then I had an AHA! moment and figured out a method of using the move tool by selecting just the short side and moving it 2" (because I want it 5"). that changed my miters to 59 degrees. I used the protractor and redrew the angles and then moved the miter point to the new angle. But doing this for every component seems very annoying. Is there an easier way or am I just gonna have to be annoyed?
What is a move tool?
Is this the miter gauge on a table saw?
How many components can you need or get out of 4 feet of wood?
For a frame you generally need 4, and the miters have to be 45's or they will not line up.
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post #4 of 10 Old 06-28-2014, 08:07 PM
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Me either. I never read that many lines with no paragraph. Add a pic please.
.
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post #5 of 10 Old 06-28-2014, 08:48 PM
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He's talking about a cad program - sketchup or whatever.

Alexis de Tocqueville was a very smart man.
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post #6 of 10 Old 06-28-2014, 08:51 PM
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Originally Posted by GeorgeC View Post
I am sorry, but I have absolutely no clue what you are trying to say.

George
This is the Sketchup Help section of the forum.
He is saying that he is having issues maintaining a 45 miter angle on a Sketchup component that he is resizing.
By keeping it within the length parameter, but changing the width, his miter angle is changing from a 45 to a 59.
I wish I could help with this problem, but can't.
I do hope I cleared up your issue though.
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post #7 of 10 Old 06-28-2014, 09:52 PM
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I'm no sketch up expert, but I'm not aware of a really good way to do what you're describing. My method is to use the push/pull tool as you described and create the square corner, then draw in an extension to the 45 degree lines that you already have.

I use components almost exclusively (meaning, anything I draw becomes a component) for easier copying and moving of parts. Once a few components are drawn, I copy and "make unique" those components and alter them as needed to make further components rather than draw things from scratch. Doing this doesn't help to draw your widened mitered piece, but it will save you redrawing the same miter over an over.
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post #8 of 10 Old 06-29-2014, 03:45 PM Thread Starter
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For a second I thought I posted in the wrong section. I make everything a component as well. That doesn't seem to be effecting anything. Once I did the method I figured out a couple times it was actually quite simple. Guess I just need ed to write it out. Thanks everyone!
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post #9 of 10 Old 07-01-2014, 02:38 PM
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New member here but I've used sketchup a lot. Yeah, move works ok when you select the right segments but there are often unintended effects.

I agree with WalnutAvenue that using components (Group command) is a great way (heck, the only) to go. You can put components into other components which makes for pretty easy manipulation of sub assemblies.

On the other hand, sometimes it's easier to redraw something than trying to fix it. And sometimes, fixing things makes a worse mess of it all! I've gotten really quick at making small components. The order you do things in really effects how easy it is. So to create a mitered box, I would draw the outline from the top (2 rectangles, one inside the other), draw the miter lines (corner to corner) and then use push/pull to lift each side to the correct height. You can control the height by typing in the number in. Push/Pull works best if you rotate the view to an angle. The miters come along for the ride. SU has lots of little helping aspects, like in the push/pull, you do the first one and then if you do an adjacent one, it will stop at that height for a perfect match.

One other trick I use a lot is the intersection command. This works great for lots of stuff. An example - mortise and tenons. You build the tenon component and put it where you want it to be. Select the tenon and the component where you want the mortise and then use intersect/selected. Then go into the mortise component and delete the surfaces you don't want.

And, I use hide/unhide a LOT. makes it easier to see what's going on.
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post #10 of 10 Old 07-03-2014, 01:24 PM Thread Starter
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[QUOTE=PhilBa;619887]move works ok when you select the right segments but there are often unintended effects.
QUOTE]

Boy you aint lying. I didn't realize I used the move tool after joining two shapes. I spend hours (because I wanted to learn why it wasn't working) just trying to do a simple 1/4 offset and push it down a little. It would not recognize my offset as part of the geometry so when I would select it to push it would still be floating in space. turns out the move tool moved it just enough off plane that you couldn't tell with the naked eye but mathematically the program saw it as no longer coplanar. Finally just redrew the component and all was well.

But as far as my initial problem I found the easiest way is to just grab the small straight side of the component, move it to the correct width, redraw the angles and push the excess out. after 2-3 times it took only a few seconds.

The mortise and tenon intersect trick is pretty slick. Using that now to make a table top. Thanks for that tip!
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