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post #1 of 5 Old 10-18-2018, 09:01 PM Thread Starter
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Need For design feedback

Ok, I am a novice at timber framing. I have an add-on project to replace an aging sunroom. I plan build a 18x20 on a slab. Ihave designed a 3-bay, 6 feet between, 20 foot clear span, 4/10 pitch roof out of red pine center cut timbers. 1x10 treated sill against concrete, 8x8 sills, 8x8x8' posts, 7x10x20' tie beams, 8x8x10' principal rafters, 8x8x8' collar ties, 3x8 braces on corners and 3x8 arched braces at collar. I would appreciate any feedback or suggestions.
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post #2 of 5 Old 10-22-2018, 11:18 PM Thread Starter
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I have been working on drawings but wanted some feedback before proceeding. I do not have the option of increasing the pitch due to the restrictions of the main house form. Snow load is an issue in that we are in in northern Minnesota.
Certainly king post is an option. I can brace the trusses space allowing. A center post is possible on the freestanding end. The end towards the house can be securely attached to the existing structure. I want to avoid an internal center post. The roof structure would be birch tongue and groove, foam sheets, cdx and asphalt shingles. I do not have PE available locally for timber frame but can certainly send off the plans for review. My biggest concern now is sizing of the timbers. The trees are down and are soon off to the lumber mill. The bolts are big enough for 7x12s. Thanks for any suggestions.
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post #3 of 5 Old 10-23-2018, 03:04 AM
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Not many timberframers here

https://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f28/
You will only find 1 or 2 active timber framers here, sorry. Best to look elsewhere for more replies.

Like here:
https://www.tfguild.org/forum

https://timberframehq.com/timber-fra...tting-started/

The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)
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post #4 of 5 Old 10-23-2018, 08:53 AM
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"1x10 treated sill against concrete"

I don't know about your codes, but, where I am, any wood on concrete
must have a special foam barrier between the two.

good luck in your project !! sounds like an awesome journey.

.

.

-- Failure is proof that you at least tried ~ now, go do it again, and again, until you get it right --
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post #5 of 5 Old 11-15-2018, 09:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gbojabemidji View Post
Ok, I am a novice at timber framing. I have an add-on project to replace an aging sunroom. I plan build a 18x20 on a slab. Ihave designed a 3-bay, 6 feet between, 20 foot clear span, 4/10 pitch roof out of red pine center cut timbers. 1x10 treated sill against concrete, 8x8 sills, 8x8x8' posts, 7x10x20' tie beams, 8x8x10' principal rafters, 8x8x8' collar ties, 3x8 braces on corners and 3x8 arched braces at collar. I would appreciate any feedback or suggestions.
Hello Gbojabemidji,

Sounds like an interesting project...Sunrooms are great DIY starting point for novice wanting to get into timber framing..

Without drawings, its hard to get into great detail and/or really germane and good advice...

Quote:
Originally Posted by Gbojabemidji View Post
I have been working on drawings but wanted some feedback before proceeding. I do not have the option of increasing the pitch due to the restrictions of the main house form. Snow load is an issue in that we are in in northern Minnesota.
Yes snow is a real challenge!!!

I was the designer of a similar pitched frame in Menomonie Wisconsin (there public farmers market...picture all over the web of it if interested...) So you snow load is going to be a key challenge for sure...

Quote:
Originally Posted by Gbojabemidji View Post
...Certainly king post is an option. I can brace the trusses space allowing. A center post is possible on the freestanding end...
If you like it...King Post truss is an option, but not necessary at all...

I would probably use a traditional ridge beam configuration, but I specialize in Asian style timber frames...

Quote:
Originally Posted by Gbojabemidji View Post
...The end towards the house can be securely attached to the existing structure. I want to avoid an internal center post...
I seldom (never actually without a wavier) recommend tying an "add on" timber frame to the pre existing architecture for many reasons...

Quote:
Originally Posted by Gbojabemidji View Post
...The roof structure would be birch tongue and groove, foam sheets, cdx and asphalt shingles. I do not have PE available locally for timber frame but can certainly send off the plans for review.
I would nix the foam and go with mineral wood.

I recommend metal standing seam for most roofs especially those I would like to get snow...off of!!!...as fast as possible...

I would nix the CDX and go with a traditional green skip purlin or whatever the roofer will warrantee...

I do believe my PE is licensed in MN...???...if not he (they) will know who to recommend...Call "Fire Tower Engineered Timbers."

Quote:
Originally Posted by Gbojabemidji View Post
...My biggest concern now is sizing of the timbers. The trees are down and are soon off to the lumber mill. The bolts are big enough for 7x12s. Thanks for any suggestions.
I've sent you a private message, feel free to respond here or to my email...

Regards,

j

Tosa Tomo Designs
Confucius (551 BCE): "I hear and I forget. I see and I remember. I do and I understand..." "...Real knowledge is to know the extent of one's ignorance..." Socrates:I cannot teach anybody anything. I can only help them think..."
Stephen Covey:"Seek to understand, before seeking to be understood..."
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