What Type of Rule do Cabinet Makers Use and what type of pencil? - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
 
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post #1 of 9 Old 02-05-2012, 07:45 PM Thread Starter
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I Prefer the Stanley 12' I have both one that has 32nd reading through the first 16". My other one is in Metric which IMO we should switch to but that's another thread. When I'm marking Cabinet parts molding Etc I use a .05 Mechanical Pencil and like to measure to the exact. When doing crown on cabinetry I measure the entire room. Cut and number all my blanks making sure to add for outside projections. I then cut all inside miters on all pieces and scribe to any pieces to wall. I then fit every piece and mark the front cut with a .05 pencil. What do you guys do?

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Last edited by MastersHand; 02-05-2012 at 07:54 PM.
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post #2 of 9 Old 02-05-2012, 08:01 PM
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I use a 3/4" x 16' Stanley PL II, and a Pentel .05, or just an ordinary sharp #2 (keep one of these in my pocket).






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post #3 of 9 Old 02-05-2012, 11:21 PM
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25' Powerlock II, can't see MMs, they all look alike, always work clockwise around a room, copes are always on the left, if coping, except the last one with two copes, ordinary #2.5 wood pencil. I like to leave longer crown pieces about 1/4" - 3/8" long depending on length of run, long enough to correct a bad fit with the saw but short enough to bend 2/3 of the length tight to where it would go to check the cope or miter fit. Hate/won't use rasps, sandpaper or do any whittlin on a joint and won't use filler, always correct with a recut. Then I mark the crown anywhere while partially in place and put a matching mark on the wall. To get the final length, I just measure from that mark on the wall to the next corner, then from the matching mark on the crown to my cut. I Almost always use an accessory table and fence on the SCMS, the kerf in that fence and table shows exactly where to line up the cut. One thing I also do is make marks around the room where the bottom of the crown should go and keep to that line, often I'll just put short vertical strips of white masking tape for making these marks on. Of course there are always rare exceptions but that's my preferred method. I probably wouldn't cope crown like your excellent picture, I'd bisect the miters, If coping, I like a coping saw, 15TPI, teeth down on the push stroke, often turned 90 to the frame.
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post #4 of 9 Old 02-10-2012, 06:53 AM
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Not to hijack this thread, MastersHand, but that picture is exceptional. It's not only the fit but the consistency in the color of all the various pieces. Care to share some of the specifics. I like the sheen, too. Looks like cherry and some nice stuff. Shaper or four sider on the cove? It's not easy finding larger cove cutters.
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post #5 of 9 Old 02-10-2012, 07:07 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Hammer1
Not to hijack this thread, MastersHand, but that picture is exceptional. It's not only the fit but the consistency in the color of all the various pieces. Care to share some of the specifics. I like the sheen, too. Looks like cherry and some nice stuff. Shaper or four sider on the cove? It's not easy finding larger cove cutters.
No Prob Shaper and Thanks Wish my Closet looked like that. It has more square feet then my House

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post #6 of 9 Old 02-10-2012, 07:17 AM
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Any comments on the finish?
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post #7 of 9 Old 02-10-2012, 07:33 AM Thread Starter
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Any comments on the finish?
Chestnut w/ Sable Glaze Catalyzed lacquer

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post #8 of 9 Old 02-10-2012, 09:27 AM
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the one that's closest to hand.
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post #9 of 9 Old 02-10-2012, 10:03 AM
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I try hard to not use any measuring devices. Just story sticks. When that's not possible, I use a very old steel cased 12' Stanley tape.
I mark with a #5 mechanical pencil or a utility knife.
The pencils are bought by the dozen at Dollar stores.

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