TS throat inserts - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
 
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post #1 of 9 Old 07-19-2016, 01:10 PM Thread Starter
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TS throat inserts

Planning on (trying to) make a few TS throat inserts, but need advice as to good material to use that offers strength, rigidity, but also easy to cut. Looked online but got confused with the variety of methods presented. All comments are welcome.
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post #2 of 9 Old 07-19-2016, 01:51 PM
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I have several I made from Corian (sink cutouts) for my Unisaw. I put in four, 10-32 set screws as levelers. Works great.

"If I agreed with you, then we'd both be wrong!"
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post #3 of 9 Old 07-19-2016, 02:10 PM
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Mr. Cheap here, I use Baltic Birch plywood scraps. Has worked very well for many years.

If you don't have time to do it right the first time, when will you have time to do it over?
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post #4 of 9 Old 07-19-2016, 04:24 PM
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I use mdf or decent plywood for mine, depending on which is on hand. Just needs something dimensionally stable that won't warp or go out of flat

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etsy.com/shop/projectepicfail
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post #5 of 9 Old 07-19-2016, 09:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by woodchux View Post
Planning on (trying to) make a few TS throat inserts, but need advice as to good material to use that offers strength, rigidity, but also easy to cut. Looked online but got confused with the variety of methods presented. All comments are welcome.
Tempered hardboard or Baltic Birch plywood. Make a bunch so you can make zero clearance inserts for different saw blades.
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post #6 of 9 Old 07-19-2016, 09:39 PM
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If your saw will accept 1/2" material you can use most anything but solid wood for an insert. I tend to machine the wood down to about 7/16" and put small flat head screws in each corner on the underside to level the insert with the top. Then I just put a nail or screw in the back of it to hook on the top so the saw doesn't throw it at you.
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post #7 of 9 Old 07-20-2016, 04:42 AM
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I made this from 1/8th inch walnut for my craftman saw.. works fine..
The seller is on ebay, csmdeals88.. They sell really nice thin boards cheap if that's any help.

I even labored hours and hours to clean off a spot on my workbench to take the picture for you..

I figured it's time to change my signature so hold your breath. This is it.
Impressive, huh?

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post #8 of 9 Old 07-20-2016, 08:46 AM
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I just use 1/2" cabinet grade ply.
I first put in leveling screws from the bottom, but discovered it was much easier to level, if I drilled thru holes in the corners, and tapped for socket head set screws. This makes leveling from the top easy, without having to remove the insert to adjust a screw.
With the right size holes, screw can just be screwed in, without tapping the threads.

I also use Bondo, to fill a worn slot in the inserts, before cutting a new slot.
Make at least 2 inserts. Keep one with no slot, so if you need a fresh one for a job, it's ready. Or if the one being used gets wallowed out, just swap for the fresh one, and bondo the old one when you get a chance, and have it ready to go.

Don't forget to have a few extras for different width dados!

A while ago I got fancy and made an insert with an insert. Stopped using it. It was easier to bondo slots, than make a new insert for the insert. But it was fun making!
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post #9 of 9 Old 07-20-2016, 10:43 AM
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Phenolic is my favorite.....it's very stiff, resists warping and expansion/contraction, and it machines well. (smells bad when you cut it though!)
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