Thin strip ripping jig - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
 
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post #1 of 14 Old 11-29-2010, 03:10 AM Thread Starter
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Thin strip ripping jig

In another post I mentioned that my son, Jake, had an opportunity to 'earn' some free turning wood in exchange for some table saw work which included ripping several pieces right down the middle and then cutting some thin (5/16ths) strips of poplar.

Since Jake wasn't much for TS work he asked how we were going to adjust the fence precise enough to make consistent cuts for Jim (his customer). I explained to him that recently in our magazines there has been a lot of chatter centered around thin strip ripping jigs and explained how they worked. mind you, I already had in mind how we were going to do this but watching the wheels turn in that boys brain is a really cool thing to behold!

During our conversation about what was needed Jim and my father-in-law, Ray were also in the garage and when I presented the idea of the jig they both had that look that told me they were going to start searching my shop for the wood and other components to build one but, Jake who looked right at me asked, "Dad, why can't we just use the combination square?" "Why, what on Earth do you mean, my young padawan," I asked.

He replied (and gave me goose bumps), "If we take the combination square, place it in the far miter slot and push the ruler up to the left facing tooth of the blade and then back it off 5/16ths of an inch, and then before each cut adjust the fence with the wood in place up against the ruler, won't that do the same thing?" Brought a tear to me eye!



Truly, he must take after his mother because I'm about as smart as a bag of hair.

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post #2 of 14 Old 11-29-2010, 03:35 AM
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post #3 of 14 Old 11-29-2010, 06:03 AM
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That would work, and a quick way to get a cut. Could be that with continuous movement of the fence and square, there may be some variance. If the blade clears the stock, my preference would be to set the fence for 5/16", and use a narrow push shoe.










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post #4 of 14 Old 11-29-2010, 06:07 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cabinetman View Post
That would work, and a quick way to get a cut. Could be that with continuous movement of the fence and square, there may be some variance. If the blade clears the stock, my preference would be to set the fence for 5/16", and use a narrow push shoe.
I don't know, since the only thing moving is the fence, the square stayed tight and never budged since all we did was place it back in the the slot. It helps a lot to have a free moving fence and a slick saw top. He ripped four pieces off the narrow board Jim had and all were identical. Either method would work just fine.

But the wisdom that is from above is first pure, then peaceable, gentle, and easy to be intreated, full of mercy and good fruits, without partiality, and without hypocrisy. James 3:17

Last edited by Mr Mac; 11-29-2010 at 06:16 AM.
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post #5 of 14 Old 11-29-2010, 08:27 AM
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That is very clever of him to think that. That is good intuition and problem solvers mind. I am with cabinet man on that one but my approach would be to set the fence at the 5/16 push the stock half way through, lift it off the blade, flip it over and cut from the other direction until it was cut through then lift it off. This keeps my fingers totally away from the blade and the constant resetting of the fence.

I cut thin strips like this all the time and for me I feel this is the only safe way however with a blade guard you would not be able to make this type of cut.
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post #6 of 14 Old 11-29-2010, 10:08 AM
where's my table saw?
 
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This is an age old problem

Rockler has a jig for it: http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?p...%20strip%20jig
and others have been Shopmade as well.
The problem is there is no good way to push a thin strip through the blade except a sacrificial push stick. If you have a zillion to make it would chew up a few sticks, but oh well.
The alternative is to use a jig that positions the cut off to the left of the blade, rather than to the right and pinched by the fence.
Pick your poison I suppose. Either way will work.
Measuring each and every time would be my least favorite method. bill

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post #7 of 14 Old 11-29-2010, 10:42 AM
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Congrats to your Boy for thinking ! It's something special to watch that happen.


Quote:
Originally Posted by woodnthings View Post
"What we did is take a little flat bottom....deal "



You'd a think he'd a knowd the diffrence betwix'd a toilet bolt and a flat bottom deal...


I cut it 3 times..... and it's still too short.

Dont go ninja'ing anybody that dont need no ninja'ing...

Last edited by Fishbucket; 11-29-2010 at 10:47 AM.
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post #8 of 14 Old 11-29-2010, 12:04 PM
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Originally Posted by woodnthings View Post
The problem is there is no good way to push a thin strip through the blade except a sacrificial push stick. If you have a zillion to make it would chew up a few sticks, but oh well.

Measuring each and every time would be my least favorite method. bill
Not really an age old problem. Maybe some of the concern would be to those with minimal table saw experience, or those that feel that it's not safe. Single set ups, IMO, are preferred especially if there are a "zillion" to make.










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post #9 of 14 Old 11-29-2010, 12:11 PM
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Yeah, I donno about age old, only old age!

I completely forgot to mention the use of a ZERO clearance throat plate for all thin strips no matter which side of the blade your workpiece falls. It's a must! Don't go fishing after thin strips that fall in the gap. DAMHIK. bill

The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)
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post #10 of 14 Old 11-29-2010, 12:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cabinetman View Post
That would work, and a quick way to get a cut. Could be that with continuous movement of the fence and square, there may be some variance. If the blade clears the stock, my preference would be to set the fence for 5/16", and use a narrow push shoe.
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Originally Posted by woodnthings View Post
I completely forgot to mention the use of a ZERO clearance throat plate for all thin strips no matter which side of the blade your workpiece falls. It's a must! Don't go fishing after thin strips that fall in the gap. DAMHIK. bill
I'd agree with both.
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post #11 of 14 Old 11-30-2010, 12:13 AM
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You have to give the kid credit for using the thinking cap...

I'd cut them a hair oversize and run them through the planer. Maybe oversize enough to do both faces since I don't have a jointer.

The Pessimist sees difficulty in every opportunity while the Optimist sees opportunity in every difficulty...
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post #12 of 14 Old 11-30-2011, 07:10 PM
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Look what I found in a search

Very nice tutorial for a home made ripping jig:
http://www.woodsmithshop.com/downloa...rippingjig.pdf

The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)
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post #13 of 14 Old 12-01-2011, 04:03 AM
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Last week had to do about a dozen 1/4"x8' furring strips. I had on hand 1.5"x1.5"x8' pine. I used the fence as the fixed point with rounded/sanded pieces on the fence held with clamps to act like a hold down feather board to keep the wood from bucking up on both the infeed side and out feed, with about 1/16 clearance. A feather board on the table on the infeed side to hold wood to fence. I used for a sacrificial push stick 1.5"x1.5"x15" with about 1/3 bevel cut off top, the push stick just followed the tag end of the piece I was cutting right into the blade. It was all quick & dirty get er done setup, but all the pieces were exactly the same and the cuts were nice and smooth. The longest time was setting the in and out side of the fence to be exact, (I still haven't set up my new 22124 with Bs fence, using the 22114 with sloppy fence).

I like the solution posted by the OP, simple solutions are usually the best.
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post #14 of 14 Old 12-06-2011, 12:43 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yocalif View Post
I used for a sacrificial push stick 1.5"x1.5"x15" with about 1/3 bevel cut off top, the push stick just followed the tag end of the piece I was cutting right into the blade.
For anyone who hasn't used a push stick by running the push stick into the blade, be sure to have the push stick flat on the table.
Holding it above the table, and running it into the blade can be dangerous! Hey! where did that push stick go?

Last edited by Pirate; 12-06-2011 at 08:40 AM.
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