Table saw jointing with 2 uneven edges - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
 
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post #1 of 7 Old 09-10-2012, 12:24 AM Thread Starter
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Table saw jointing with 2 uneven edges

I have seen some jigs that will joint the edge of a board, but I am having trouble doing it. I know that you are supposed to be able to take a board that is perfectly straight and use it up against the fence and it will give you something to register off of. What if you have a board with 2 very uneven edges? My lack of skill is preventing me from accomplishing this seemingly easy task.

If I took that board that has the straight edge, pushed it against the fence, clamped the board to be jointed on top of it and cut, how do I know where to cut? I mean if the edge is terribly uneven, won't I wind up with a side that is running diagonal or something? If I then use the flat face of that board to joint the opposite edge won't I end up with a parallelogram instead of a rectangle? The grain will not be straight any more. Sorry if I am making no sense here. Just trying to figure this out.
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post #2 of 7 Old 09-10-2012, 06:17 AM
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How long is the curved board? 2 ft? 4 ft? 8ft?
If under 8ft hopefully, use a slightly wider piece of Masonite or other thin plywood as a base. It will have one factory straight edge hopefully.
Place that edge against the fence as your reference.
Use some double sided tape on the top of the Masonite to hold your curved board securely.
Place your curved board on top of the Masonite and locate the edge to be cut off on the blade line. It's OK if you cut through the Masonite/plywood on your first cut! You will now cut right through everything and end up with an edge as straight as the the edge against the fence.

The jigs made for this use clamps the can be quickly operated for more than one cut. This is a quick and easy suggestion using the double sided tape as a means to secure the curved board. LIke this:





To build one like the photo see this thread:
http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f27/s...rip-jig-40532/

The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)

Last edited by woodnthings; 09-10-2012 at 06:20 AM.
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post #3 of 7 Old 09-10-2012, 06:46 AM
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I do not understand why you are trying to joint a board that has two uneven edges???

George
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post #4 of 7 Old 09-10-2012, 06:54 AM
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Woodenthings approach is the one I would use, consider a piece of MDF for the strightedge, cheap and pretty square from the getgo. Typically, when I strightedge a piece, I'll look to cut off the least amount of stock that will provide that strightedge...worrying about the grain not being straight (it never is anyway) doesn't help. You then use the straight edge you created against your table saw fence to rip the other edge staright, viola!, it's parallel and once you trim the ends it will be a rectangle.

"I long for the days when coke was a cola and a joint was a bad place to be" (Merle Haggard)
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post #5 of 7 Old 09-10-2012, 06:59 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GeorgeC View Post
I do not understand why you are trying to joint a board that has two uneven edges???

George
I suspect that he has a board with two uneven edges and would like to know how to straighten at least one edge so they can be joined properly.

Bill's method is effective.
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post #6 of 7 Old 09-10-2012, 07:57 AM
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You don't need to go to the trouble to make a jig to do this. Any straight edge can be used to put a straight edge on the board in question. You could use the "backside" of the subject board and tack to it with 4d finish nails (3 at a minimum), a straight piece of any substrate that has one straight edge. Have the straightedge protrude from the fence side of the subject piece just to clear without rubbing.

Measure over to the other side of the subject piece to the narrowest side, and set the fence to just cut into it. When the two gets passed and cut, whatever is out of parallel to the piece tacked on top will be cut. I suggest the nails rather than tape, as the two mating surfaces may not be flat to each other, and there could be the possibility of the two pieces getting loose. That could happen from a variety of reasons including, dust or debris. You want to minimize the possibility of that happening.





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post #7 of 7 Old 09-10-2012, 10:45 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks folks. Yes that is what I meant. I need to joint one edge to get the other edge straight too. It is 2" thick birch so it is pretty substantial stuff. I will keep working with it. I just don't want to cut alot of wood. Maybe one day I can afford a jointer. My router planer works great though
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