Shop made or bought bandsaw fence. Lets see - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
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post #1 of 43 Old 10-29-2012, 11:48 AM Thread Starter
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Just looking for ideas for a fence for my little bandsaw. Show me what you got. Homemade or store bought.
Must show pics.

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post #2 of 43 Old 10-29-2012, 12:27 PM
where's my table saw?
 
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3 pieces of wood and a bar clamp

This is very basic but it will work. You can make it self square with another piece on one end, notched to allow the clamp to fit down in against the table. The green strip is a shim to snug the clamp in the slot.
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The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)
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post #3 of 43 Old 10-29-2012, 12:32 PM Thread Starter
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That's a good idea, what's holding the plywood pieces together? Just screws?
Thanks

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post #4 of 43 Old 10-29-2012, 12:35 PM
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My Grizzly came with a decent fence.

This Mule is way too expensive, but providing the link for inspiration on building one for yourself.

A piece of Unistrut across the table.......

http://www.mulecab.com/bandsaw.html

A Carter product. Uses two of the switchable magnets which can be purchased to make your own.
http://www.carterproducts.com/produc...=474&cat_id=75

Lee Valley sell the magnets. This page even shows a easy home made fence.
http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/pag...363,42356&ap=1

A less expensive magnetic fend from ULTRAMAG.
http://www.woodcraft.com/product/208...saw-fence.aspx

I like the magnetic fences, since they are easier to set to accomodate the blade drift.
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post #5 of 43 Old 10-29-2012, 12:59 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks Dave. I like the magfence. It looks like something that would work for me, or even just buying the magnets and making one.
Keep the ideas coming guys.
Oh and one other thing is this table is small, so would it be wise to make the table bigger? If so, tips on that would help to.
Thanks.

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Last edited by Dominick; 10-29-2012 at 01:24 PM.
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post #6 of 43 Old 10-29-2012, 01:42 PM
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Here's mine. A couple pieces of oak flooring screwed together and held in place with clamps

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post #7 of 43 Old 10-29-2012, 01:44 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RogerC
Here's mine. A couple pieces of oak flooring screwed together and held in place with clamps
Thanks roger. I have lots of that laying around. Great ideas guys. Nice saw and, looks like a piece of cherry.

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post #8 of 43 Old 10-29-2012, 02:06 PM
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Thanks. It's my first bandsaw, and I got an incredible deal off CL. I paid $80 for it. I've had to do some tune-up (balance the upper wheel, new drive belt, etc), but it'll be great for what I do.

That wood is actually a piece of maple
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post #9 of 43 Old 10-29-2012, 02:20 PM
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Shop made or bought bandsaw fence. Lets see-pa290107.jpg

Mostly just scrap wood and t-track. It works great, but I forgot to notch out a groove for the miter slot.
--Matt
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post #10 of 43 Old 10-29-2012, 02:20 PM
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I use a pivot fence like this. It's easy to use and you don't have to compensate it for blade drift as you have to with a normal fence.

Shop made or bought bandsaw fence. Lets see-dsc00329.jpg

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post #11 of 43 Old 10-29-2012, 02:52 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Longknife
I use a pivot fence like this. It's easy to use and you don't have to compensate it for blade drift as you have to with a normal fence.
Hard to tell how it's set up by the pics. Got any other angles?

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post #12 of 43 Old 10-29-2012, 03:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dominick View Post
Hard to tell how it's set up by the pics. Got any other angles?
This is a resaw fence. The design only supports the board at the blade.

The board is shown being resawn.

Longknife calls this a pivot fence, since as the board is being fed, you pivot the wood left or right to keep the blade on the desired track as you resaw.

The piece at right angles to the blade is longer than others I have seen, likely to just bridge the distance from the blade to the outside edge for clamping.
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post #13 of 43 Old 10-29-2012, 10:53 PM
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I based my bandsaw fence/table from an American Woodworker youtube video: http://youtu.be/rpbwH9510MY

It is made of 3/4 inch baltic birch, with a slot cut for the mitre gauge and the T-track. The fence is the same material. For now, I use clamps to hold the auxiliary table to the band saw table, though I need to make the attachment a bit more permanent and easier to get on and of. There are cleats on the bottom of the auxiliary table that fit the original bandsaw table and keep the auxiliary table from moving about.

I plan on making more than one fence. The one you see already made is for resawing. I'll make a shorter one that can fit under the bandsaw guide mechanism.

I had the extra mitre gauge lying around and that it would be helpful to adjust for bandsaw drift. I have very little drift, though I have not used a variety of blades.

Here are some pictures:
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post #14 of 43 Old 10-29-2012, 11:05 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks Greg, I did see that video earlier today. My only problem with that is my table doesn't have that slot in it for that type of fence. But I'm sure I can configure something like that.
Thanks for sharing.

Shop made or bought bandsaw fence. Lets see-image-1039817633.jpg

Here's my table.

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post #15 of 43 Old 10-30-2012, 06:00 AM
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Held together with 2 sided tape

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dominick View Post
That's a good idea, what's holding the plywood pieces together? Just screws?
Thanks
This was a "mock up" from another post that asked the same question. I don't use it as my saw came with a fairly decent fence, however I keep it handy just in case. It can accommodate a slight amount of drift ... IF you know the angle.
It was dirt cheap since it was made from scraps and I had the clamp. I should use a few screws to hold it together.

The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)
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post #16 of 43 Old 10-30-2012, 06:46 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Longknife View Post
I use a pivot fence like this. It's easy to use and you don't have to compensate it for blade drift as you have to with a normal fence.

Attachment 54046

For some, the pivot type fence works out easier for resawing.





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post #17 of 43 Old 10-30-2012, 06:49 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dominick View Post
Thanks Greg, I did see that video earlier today. My only problem with that is my table doesn't have that slot in it for that type of fence. But I'm sure I can configure something like that.
Thanks for sharing.

Attachment 54081

Here's my table.
If you make an add on table, you can set up stop cleats underneath to lock the table in place.







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post #18 of 43 Old 10-30-2012, 02:17 PM
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Dominick

Even though the presenter on the American Woodworking video uses the miter gauge slots for his auxiliary table, there is no need to use this approach. In fact, I do have miter gauge slots on my table, but I did not use them.

Instead, I ripped the plywood into eight 1 inch slats and attached them to the bottom of the 24x24 table. I first attached one cleat to the bottom of the auxiliary table, positioned so that I had the desired overhang (between 2 to 4 inches, I think). I tried to make sure it was parallel to the edge of the auxiliary table.

Once I did that, I removed the bandsaw blade and positioned the auxiliary table on the bandsaw table, marked where I wanted the opposing cleat, removed the table and attached the cleat. All while trying to make sure that the auxiliary table was parallel and perpendicular to the existing table. It took a few tries to where it was sufficiently tight enough. In fact, I waxed the bottom so it would more easily slide, it was that tight. I didn't want any slop

Once I added the side cleats, I added the front cleat, again, making certain that the overhang was sufficient and the table was positioned correctly.

I removed the auxiliary table and reinstalled the bandsaw blade and cut through the auxiliary table from the back. i.e., I slid the auxiliary table along the cleats until the front cleat prevented it from going any further. Because I made a mistake in the placement of the front cleat, I cut further than I intended. (I had to reposition the cleat after I cut the slot for the bandsaw blade, duh).

Next, I cut the slots for the miter gauge and the t-track on the table saw using a dado blade. You want to make sure that there are no screws that will be in the path of the dado blade.

After that, I built the fence using 3/4 baltic birch, screws, glue and triangular support pieces. I added blocks to one end so that my miter gauge would have something secure to attach to.

To lock down the fence once it is set, I use Rockler Universal Fence Clamps that I picked up on sale on the front and back of the fence.

I do need to create a more elegant solution to clamping the auxiliary table to the bandsaw table than the bar clamps I am currently using. I want something that will not interfere with the table.

I'll try to attach pictures from the bottom so you can see the cleats I am using to position the auxiliary table onto the bandsaw table.

Greg

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Last edited by Greg in Maryland; 10-30-2012 at 02:20 PM.
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post #19 of 43 Old 10-30-2012, 02:42 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks Greg for the description. I'm not sure what I'm going to do yet. I'm still thinking of a good and easy way to do it.
Lots of ideas here. Love it keep em coming.

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post #20 of 43 Old 10-30-2012, 05:30 PM Thread Starter
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Just wondering if it would be wise to remove the cast iron table and make a larger table out if plywood. This table is to small for me. And It's just annoying me. I'm not sure if I should just attach the plywood some how the the cast table, because by doing that I'm losing distance for cutting thicker material. Maybe I'm over thinking like I usually do. Lol
Thanks for your help.

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