Saw stop from 8020 material - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
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post #1 of 22 Old 04-07-2013, 10:01 PM Thread Starter
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Saw stop from 8020 material

After setting up my miter saw. I needed a stop to do repeat cuts that would be accurate and last through years of use. 8020 makes a part that is used to connect their product in many configurations and angles. I found this to be perfect for a flip stop.

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The stop needs to flip out of the way if needed to make cuts without having to remove or change the location. This presents a problem. How to have it move up and down without being loose and inaccurate.

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This is the secrete to the flip stop. I used a bolt and a oillite bronze bearing. You need to find a 5/16" bolt with a length longer than 3/4" that has no threads. The bearing will fit tighter with less slop if it's operating on the non thread section of the bolt.

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I had to cut the threads deeper on the smooth section until the bolt bottomed out tight to the stop slide but didn't tighten down on the bearing. Stopping the threads short will act as a shoulder and allow the bearing to move but not loosen the screw. I later picked up some shoulder bolts on EBay that I will make a second stop with. Just tighten the bolt until the bearing no longer has any side to side movement.

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Here the bolt and bearing are screwed into the slide. The wide flat surface of the stop helps insure the flip stays square and aids in strength. Now all you have to do is make the flip stop fit snug when the bolt is tight. Drill it out to fit the bearing OD with a friction fit. Maybe a little glue. If it wears it's easily replaced for about $3.

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Complete with the wood flip stop. The important factors that make this accurate and strong.

1) Base slide from 8020 less than $5. Wide surface to insure it's square.
2) Shoulder bolt with bearing. ID 5/16 OD 1/2 length is 3/4.
3) Slide rail from 8020 6' long. 1.5"X3". 8020 found on eBay for less than $45. These are very stiff and straight.

Al B Thayer

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post #2 of 22 Old 04-10-2013, 11:52 PM Thread Starter
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Here's another version made from 3/4" aluminum. I didn't have this stock when I made the first stop.

Al

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post #3 of 22 Old 04-11-2013, 09:43 AM
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You got to love the 8020 materials.

Just like the company says, its a giant erector set for grown ups!

John,

Confidence does not come from always being right. It comes from not being afraid to be wrong.
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post #4 of 22 Old 04-11-2013, 10:30 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wema826
You got to love the 8020 materials.

Just like the company says, its a giant erector set for grown ups!
I should be on the sales staff. I've made three tools out of it. and shared them here.

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This is a planer knife sharpener. I can sharpen almost any blade in it. Super sharp super fast.

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I forgot about this. Horizontal Mortise machine. I built the linear bearings on this and found they are better than what the factory makes.

I share these and would hope others will see the advantages in making tools from 8020 aluminum products. These in the past were priced out of reach of most woodworkers. Now you can buy everything they make on EBay for half price. I picked up all these on EBay.

Al

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post #5 of 22 Old 04-12-2013, 03:18 AM
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could you please let me know how much this linear bearings cost you and what's the size and where i can buy.
thanx
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post #6 of 22 Old 04-12-2013, 07:40 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hillpanther
could you please let me know how much this linear bearings cost you and what's the size and where i can buy.
thanx
You have to look on EBay to get the best price for this material. They sell shorts and over runs by the piece or lot. Depending on what your going to use it for you would choose the size and weight.

The best price on the bearings is by far going to be to buy the aluminum profile and the bearing plastic separately. Search EBay and look through and compare. The profile will come in random lengths and you will find the the bearing plastic cut to short lengths or sold in 3' sections. Buy it in 3' sections. It's easier to "build" the linear bearing and then cut them to the length you need. All your doing is drilling and screwing the plastic in place. Very easy to do and the bearings will be better than those you will find assembled.

Send me a PM about what you want to build and I will be happy to work with you through the process.

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post #7 of 22 Old 04-12-2013, 09:13 AM
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i don't know why i can't send you pm.
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post #8 of 22 Old 04-12-2013, 08:59 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hillpanther
i don't know why i can't send you pm.
Are you on an IPad or PC?

Al

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post #9 of 22 Old 04-13-2013, 01:20 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Al B Thayer View Post
Are you on an IPad or PC?

Al

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i m on pc.i think i might have to cross post limit after that i might be able to send pm
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post #10 of 22 Old 04-13-2013, 01:56 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hillpanther
i m on pc.i think i might have to cross post limit after that i might be able to send pm
I tried to PM you and got a message that you were not excepting messaging. Maybe in your settings.

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post #11 of 22 Old 12-03-2014, 03:40 PM
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Linear Bearings

You mentioned that you made the linear bearings for your Mortise Machine.

Would you have details/pictures/material used ?

Regards

Bob Stanton
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post #12 of 22 Old 12-03-2014, 04:30 PM
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Al, I like the fence, I just may have to adapt this to my radial arm saw some day when I have some room.

The tools don't make the craftsman....
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post #13 of 22 Old 12-03-2014, 10:13 PM
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Al,

How much room does the mortising machine take up. If I were to build one how much shop space would I have to dedicate to it?
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post #14 of 22 Old 12-03-2014, 10:59 PM
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Does the stop have any sort of fine tuner to it?

Can it be easily tweaked to jive correctly with the tape if you change blades?
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post #15 of 22 Old 12-08-2014, 09:45 PM
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Again asking: Does it have any adjustment at all? How do you adjust it for different blades or are you just stuck with what you have if things don't align properly after a blade change???

Same question regarding the planer blade jig. How hard is it to adjust the angle or depth of cut? How hard is it to take off another .001 if you wish to??? How long does it take to remove a few burrs or chips with that? How difficult is it to make ALL the blades come out exactly the same size so things are 'balanced' on the cutter head?
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post #16 of 22 Old 12-10-2014, 10:28 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ttharp
Al,

How much room does the mortising machine take up. If I were to build one how much shop space would I have to dedicate to it?
I completely missed this post Travis. Sorry. The mortise machine is about 34" long and 20 or so inches wide. The one in the picture can be shorter in height. It works well as a bench top machine because you want it to be tall so you don't have to bend over to use it. It will also see a lot of closet time so its best if you can just bring it out when you need it. Also look at the machine Greg Paolini made. He has a site under his name. He sells a plan that has a simpler table for less money that works well. But his slide for the router section isn't as good as mine. If I still have your address I'm going to send you a copy of my combo router table mortise machine.

Al


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post #17 of 22 Old 12-18-2014, 10:53 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Al B Thayer
I completely missed this post Travis. Sorry. The mortise machine is about 34" long and 20 or so inches wide. The one in the picture can be shorter in height. It works well as a bench top machine because you want it to be tall so you don't have to bend over to use it. It will also see a lot of closet time so its best if you can just bring it out when you need it. Also look at the machine Greg Paolini made. He has a site under his name. He sells a plan that has a simpler table for less money that works well. But his slide for the router section isn't as good as mine. If I still have your address I'm going to send you a copy of my combo router table mortise machine. Al
I was hoping it could be put away. Do you make your own loose tenons when you use it or do you use the store bought variety?
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post #18 of 22 Old 12-18-2014, 11:02 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ttharp

I was hoping it could be put away. Do you make your own loose tenons when you use it or do you use the store bought variety?
I make my own. Very easy to cut the mortise and then make the tenons to fit. I like through tenons with small wedges

Saw stop from 8020 material-image-3454819011.jpg

Mostly on parts less than 1" thick where I don't have much wood to glue them in to. Matching wood is enough contrast for me.

Al


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post #19 of 22 Old 12-18-2014, 12:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Al B Thayer
I make my own. Very easy to cut the mortise and then make the tenons to fit. I like through tenons with small wedges Mostly on parts less than 1" thick where I don't have much wood to glue them in to. Matching wood is enough contrast for me. Al
Now that's plum pretty. Is that a baby bed?
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post #20 of 22 Old 12-18-2014, 12:35 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ttharp

Now that's plum pretty. Is that a baby bed?
That made me chuckle. 6 dining chairs. Found in my profile.

Al


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