router as Jointer help - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
 
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post #1 of 14 Old 06-21-2016, 02:12 PM Thread Starter
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router as Jointer help

Hey guys I am trying to figure out how to use my router as a jointer. I am on a ship so internet is limited and I everytime I seach it times out. I am just starting out.
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post #2 of 14 Old 06-21-2016, 02:57 PM
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http://www.highlandwoodworking.com/f...tharouter.aspx

Alexis de Tocqueville was a very smart man.
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post #3 of 14 Old 06-21-2016, 03:36 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks
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post #4 of 14 Old 06-21-2016, 03:41 PM Thread Starter
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That is really helpful and I will use that however I am looking for how to process the edge of the board to make it square.
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post #5 of 14 Old 06-21-2016, 03:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jason.Boushard View Post
That is really helpful and I will use that however I am looking for how to process the edge of the board to make it square.
Clamp a straight edge along the board for the router base to run against, and use a 1/4" straight bit, (spiral up cut if you have one). If the board face is flat, the edge will be square.

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post #6 of 14 Old 06-21-2016, 06:06 PM
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A router table can be used to joint the edge of short boards. You need to set up your fence so the in-feed and out-feed sides are offset a little bit, with the in-feed side behind the out-feed side. Aligned the cut of the bit with the out-feed side of the fence. The amount of offset isn't critical.

How you create the offset depends on the design of you fence. If you need help, try to supply a photo of your fence.
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post #7 of 14 Old 06-21-2016, 08:49 PM Thread Starter
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Alchymist, I didn't think it would be that easy but it makes sense.

TerryQ, I guess a router table will be my first project lol.
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post #8 of 14 Old 06-22-2016, 03:51 AM
where's my table saw?
 
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jointing on the router table...

As stated it's only good for shorter pieces, just like a stationary joiner with short beds. To edge joint longer pieces, hand hold the router and use a long, precision straight edge like a framers level. They are under $30 at the H-D , come in 4ft and 6 ft lengths. Other straight metal structural pieces can be used. I have a 2" square aluminum bar that's 10 ft long when I need a good straight edge. The factory edge of 4 X 8 Masonite or a good plywood will work also and many of us have used that. :smile3:

The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)
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post #9 of 14 Old 08-11-2017, 04:29 PM
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For one thing, you would have to have a table-mounted router and a split fence. The outfeed fence has to be offset. Then with a straight bit it can be used as a jointer.
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post #10 of 14 Old 08-11-2017, 04:34 PM
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Jointing driftwood must be a bitch

I make things
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post #11 of 14 Old 08-11-2017, 04:55 PM
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probably not that bad IF ....

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Jointing driftwood must be a bitch

Probably easy if you allow for the "drift" .... just sayin'

The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)
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post #12 of 14 Old 08-11-2017, 07:30 PM
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For one thing, you would have to have a table-mounted router and a split fence. The outfeed fence has to be offset. Then with a straight bit it can be used as a jointer.


Fence doesn't need to be split, double sided tape and thin piece on the outfeed works
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post #13 of 14 Old 08-11-2017, 08:14 PM
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It's that easy

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Originally Posted by Jason.Boushard View Post
Alchymist, I didn't think it would be that easy but it makes sense.

TerryQ, I guess a router table will be my first project lol.
There is a table in my photos that I joined. 7.5' long and they turned out as easy and as good as any boards I've ever glued up. I used a whimpy Festool 1010 router and a 1/4" upcut bit with a 1.25" cutting depth. The length of the cutting portion of the bit is your limiting factor and you will be hard pressed to find anything over 1.25", and let me know if you do. Joining 2" material may not be doable.

The Festool comes with a sled to drop the router into that mates to the Festool rail, but I don't have a Festool rail long enough so I used an EZsmart rail and adjusted the Festool sled to fit. It was amazingly easy and if my joiner gives me any trouble at all I'll do it again. I think you could use a long straight edge, the quality of that will determine the accuracy of the edges. Those Festool and other maker's rails are not meant to resist strong lateral forces on such a long run so I add a lateral support (clamp a board) against the middle to keep it from bowing.

Router tables are quite useful.
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post #14 of 14 Old 03-21-2019, 08:49 PM
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Yes I agree about the tape. Must be removable without leaving sticky residue.
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