Ripping a 1/4" thick yard stick - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
 
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post #1 of 20 Old 10-11-2015, 12:46 AM Thread Starter
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Ripping a 1/4" thick yard stick

Okay, I have a special application for a strip(s) of wood the same width as 1X and 1/4" thick.

While at the sailboar show in Annapolis I picked up a handful of yardsticks that would save me ripping lumber to this dimension.....

I have a weird craftsman handled push stick thingy that rides on my fence and would hold this piece of wood down while I ripped/trimmed off enough to end up with 3/4" x1/4" strip....

Is this crazy to do?
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post #2 of 20 Old 10-11-2015, 03:45 AM
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Not crazy at all, no sireebob. Just use a zero-clearance insert, so that your cut-off doesn't get sucked down into the saw

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post #3 of 20 Old 10-11-2015, 06:57 AM
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If you need to ever do this again, I would just plane a board to 3/4" and rip 1/4" strips off of it.

George
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post #4 of 20 Old 10-11-2015, 07:19 AM Thread Starter
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I can never remember the safety rule of thumb for ripping stuff on a table saw.....

something about keeping the narrowest piece you are cutting off on the outside, instead of between the fence and the blade????? or does this matter....

(I dont have a planer) but I could go out and buy some 1/4" stock, position my fence to cut 3/4" with the uncut stock on the outside ( not between the blade and the fence)

- is this the how most people would do this?

Even though I am ripping a small yardstick, the fact that its being small stock makes me nervous unless it is ok to do it this way safely...
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If you need to ever do this again, I would just plane a board to 3/4" and rip 1/4" strips off of it.

George

Last edited by vdotmatrix; 10-11-2015 at 08:08 AM.
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post #5 of 20 Old 10-11-2015, 08:54 AM
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Be certain to use a sharp fine tooth blade, and as stated a zero clearance insert. Be safe.
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post #6 of 20 Old 10-11-2015, 09:42 AM Thread Starter
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The zero clearance insert is an elusive creature...I can't find one and finding the right stock of the righ thickness has eluded me forever....I will try this after breakfast! thanks again!
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Be certain to use a sharp fine tooth blade, and as stated a zero clearance insert. Be safe.
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post #7 of 20 Old 10-11-2015, 10:11 AM
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I would rip a tad oversize and use a planer to bring them to their final size.
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post #8 of 20 Old 10-11-2015, 10:45 AM Thread Starter
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I have one of them Bosch hand planers but we are talkn yardsticks...hoefully my setup will be close enough for my purpose which is makeing feeder shims 1/4" taller for 5 bee hive colonies...something called "bee space" that needs to be maintained and I am off by a critical 1/4" and the bees know it....
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post #9 of 20 Old 10-11-2015, 09:39 PM Thread Starter
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I used a 200 tooth saw blade and made perfectly acurate cuts thanks to you and everyone who reposnded! Thank you !!!
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Be certain to use a sharp fine tooth blade, and as stated a zero clearance insert. Be safe.
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post #10 of 20 Old 10-11-2015, 10:58 PM
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A 200 tooth blade?
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post #11 of 20 Old 10-11-2015, 11:27 PM Thread Starter
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was it something I said? Yeah 200 teeth, not bicuspids mind you: http://www.homedepot.com/p/Avanti-10...200X/202021698
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post #12 of 20 Old 10-12-2015, 12:57 AM
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That's a plywood blade

It's a blade designed to cut plywood, 3/4" and less. It's not carbide tipped either. It's not meant for ripping, since there is no deep gullets to carry away the the chips and dust. I wouldn't use it ... even on plywood.




I only use carbide tipped blades and they are cheap enough in any tooth pattern to have several, 40 TPI for general purpose, 24 TPI for ripping thicker stock and 60 TPI for cross cutting in most thicknesses.

I would start with 1" thick stock, set the fence to 1/4" away from the blade and use my 40 TPI blade. I would have a push stick handy, laying on top of the fence or just on the other side to push the thin strip all the way through when it gets close to completing the cut The push stick can be thinner than 1/4" OR if it's thicker, it will become "sacrificial" when it gets chewed up running it over the blade but it will still work just fine.

There are special pusher gizmos that ride along the fence if you want to spend the money for a commercial one and have a lot of these to make.



You can make your own also:


The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)
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post #13 of 20 Old 10-12-2015, 02:10 AM Thread Starter
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hey man thanks but it is done. Everything is prefect.. I didn't use that particular blade, I just grabbed a link for a 200 tooth blade....WOODCHUX suggested I use a sharp fine tooth blade so I looked under my saw and saw a blade I haven't used in years ; it cut just fine and really clean...i have this craftsman fence guide system that is great-mine is yellow. http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/1818120...chn=ps&lpid=82
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post #14 of 20 Old 10-12-2015, 09:40 PM
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I made this adjustable pusher. I use a wider foot on it for wider cuts.
I always cut narrow strips between fence and blade.
Knob is just for pushing. T track is for other attachments.
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post #15 of 20 Old 10-12-2015, 09:55 PM Thread Starter
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I like it ..tell us more show us more...?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Pirate View Post
I made this adjustable pusher. I use a wider foot on it for wider cuts.
I always cut narrow strips between fence and blade.
Knob is just for pushing. T track is for other attachments.
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post #16 of 20 Old 10-13-2015, 12:48 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vdotmatrix View Post
hey man thanks but it is done. Everything is prefect.. I didn't use that particular blade, I just grabbed a link for a 200 tooth blade....WOODCHUX suggested I use a sharp fine tooth blade so I looked under my saw and saw a blade I haven't used in years ; it cut just fine and really clean...i have this craftsman fence guide system that is great-mine is yellow. http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/1818120...chn=ps&lpid=82
Good lord that is a stupidly elaborate gizmo. Seems like the kindve thing one would try to use once, then get fed up with how bloody difficult it is to get all the knobs and levers to play together to work right and never use it again.

Personally, i like this:
http://www.woodworkingtips.com/etips/2007/05/25/sn/

Nothing to adjust, you dont have to set anything, the worst you have to do is replace the heel every once in a while. Best thing? Its free to make!

I need cheaper hobby
etsy.com/shop/projectepicfail
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post #17 of 20 Old 10-13-2015, 09:15 AM
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Originally Posted by vdotmatrix View Post
I like it ..tell us more show us more...?
Here is a pic of it while cutting narrow strips.
The shoe is adjustable up and down and sideways. I like to push in the center of a board to prevent it cocking during the cut.
I only use the 90 tooth blade on thin stock when ripping.
My left hand doesn't move. Just keeps the board against the fence, before the blade.
It's a real easy way to rip narrow strips fast, and safely.
The other day I ripped 4, 1/16" thick strips for project. It was the easiest part of the job!
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post #18 of 20 Old 10-13-2015, 10:13 AM Thread Starter
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You know that is actullay pretty cool. You can adjust to the height of the stock and then lock it down with the wing nuts. If there is some kind of friction surface on the bottom of this thing it will grab the stock and move it along when you move the grab-handle (knob)....very cool...I'd like to make one...thanks Man!!1
Quote:
Originally Posted by Pirate View Post
Here is a pic of it while cutting narrow strips.
The shoe is adjustable up and down and sideways. I like to push in the center of a board to prevent it cocking during the cut.
I only use the 90 tooth blade on thin stock when ripping.
My left hand doesn't move. Just keeps the board against the fence, before the blade.
It's a real easy way to rip narrow strips fast, and safely.
The other day I ripped 4, 1/16" thick strips for project. It was the easiest part of the job!
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post #19 of 20 Old 10-13-2015, 01:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vdotmatrix View Post
You know that is actullay pretty cool. You can adjust to the height of the stock and then lock it down with the wing nuts. If there is some kind of friction surface on the bottom of this thing it will grab the stock and move it along when you move the grab-handle (knob)....very cool...I'd like to make one...thanks Man!!1
No friction material. If you look close at the first picture, you can see the notch at the bottom of the foot.
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post #20 of 20 Old 10-25-2015, 06:37 AM
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There's this jig:

http://www.woodworkersjournal.com/ma...p-cutting-jig/

or this:

http://www.rockler.com/thin-rip-tablesaw-jig

That one can be home-made by just clamping a piece of scrap to your miter gage in the left hand slot.
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