Resawing on bandsaw HELP! - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
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post #1 of 25 Old 07-02-2014, 07:31 PM Thread Starter
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Resawing on bandsaw HELP!

I just invested in the Wood Slicer from highland woodworking for my 14" Grizzly G0555LANV. Before this blade I was using a 4TPI 1/2" blade from a local blade shop. I was able to resaw my large 8/4 stock with relative ease, and there were very little issues.

Now, it seems that I am unable to resaw in a straight line, even free hand. I get so much blade drift it's insane. Here's what I've done in my setup for the Wood Slicer, and my previous blade, I desperately need help to fix this issue!!

1. Blade is square with the table. --Performed the WWGOA trick to test if the cuts are perpendicular, and adjusted accordingly.

2. Fence adjusted to the drift in the wood slicer.

3. Guide bushings are as close as possible without touching the blade top and bottom.

4. Blade is tensioned properly (or at least I think) 1/4" give when pushed with thumb.

5. The stock has one straight edge, cut with Festool Track saw.

6. Stock has one straight face, which is lined up along my resaw fence I made, which worked perfectly well with the previous blade.

What have I done to mess this up?

Here are what the cuts look like free hand..... I am resawing a 10" piece of 6/4. And I get this insane amount of movement on the bottom of the cut.

Top of piece:



Bottom of piece:



As you can see from the bottom piece photo, the cut moves from the right to left. I didn't want to cut down the center, I wanted to cut off center.

Please help!

Dane
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post #2 of 25 Old 07-02-2014, 09:18 PM
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Dane, sounds like you have covered all the bases. The only thing you did not mention is the tracking. I don't have a Grizzly but on my Powermatic the gullet of the blade needs to be exactly (as best you can tell) in the center of the wheel. Make sure the tracking locking knob is tight. I suspect the Grizzly has a crowned wheel so the tracking adjustment should be the same. I have used wood slicer blades and they work well.

Len
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post #3 of 25 Old 07-02-2014, 09:32 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks. I'll check that next. I sure hope I can get this guy working. It does have great cut quality, just unuseable if I can't get it to make straight cuts.
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post #4 of 25 Old 07-02-2014, 10:21 PM
where's my table saw?
 
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probably the blade

If the tension is correct and the blade is tracking OK then you've got a bad blade. The other blades cut well, so why did you change? I know "woodslicer" has a good reputation from some, not so much from others. Send it back and give a new one another chance. If the results are the same, I would get a refund.

I use Timberwolf from Grizzly in 1/2" and 3/4" ...3 TPI OR... I weld my own from roll stock from Starret.

The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)
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post #5 of 25 Old 07-03-2014, 07:13 AM Thread Starter
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Well, I made the switch because I wanted a better finish quality than the one previous so it wasn't so much work to clean up. Thanks for the reply, I'll contact highland.
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post #6 of 25 Old 07-03-2014, 07:51 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eldaneo View Post
Well, I made the switch because I wanted a better finish quality than the one previous so it wasn't so much work to clean up. Thanks for the reply, I'll contact highland.
if the board was planed down, you have 1 good side ? now the sawed off piece just run it back thro the planer and get another good side ? that is what i do and i resaw all the time, i don't like the wood slicer it doesn't stay sharp over a little time, this is just me, i use blades from this company and they work very well , the saw mark's are their but a planer will get rid of them , i will post the web site if the owner of the site see's to remove oh well , you will have to call the company and talk to them, tell them what you are doing and they will get you a good blade

http://www.supercutbandsaw.com/
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post #7 of 25 Old 07-03-2014, 10:50 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by del schisler View Post
if the board was planed down, you have 1 good side ? now the sawed off piece just run it back thro the planer and get another good side ? that is what i do and i resaw all the time, i don't like the wood slicer it doesn't stay sharp over a little time, this is just me, i use blades from this company and they work very well , the saw mark's are their but a planer will get rid of them , i will post the web site if the owner of the site see's to remove oh well , you will have to call the company and talk to them, tell them what you are doing and they will get you a good blade

http://www.supercutbandsaw.com/
Thanks Del! I was hoping for a more efficient blade. The saw marks aren't a mega issue, but I was just thinking if I never needed to saw veneers. But, you are right, I'll most likely wind up returning the wood slicer and checking other options.
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post #8 of 25 Old 07-03-2014, 05:10 PM
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Maybe I am missing something but I am having a hard time understanding how this could be the blade that caused a run in a board that far.
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post #9 of 25 Old 07-03-2014, 06:34 PM
where's my table saw?
 
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It's all about the blade

This video shows why. It has a extra wide set, no side guides and will cut a 15" thick piece....





The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)
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post #10 of 25 Old 07-03-2014, 06:42 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Bradpotts123 View Post
Maybe I am missing something but I am having a hard time understanding how this could be the blade that caused a run in a board that far.
That's what I thought. I have replaced the wood slicer, with a brand new 3TPI blade, same settings as the wood slicer, except one small guide bearing adjustment. So no tensioning, or any adjustments, and she cuts like a champ. The blade I put on there today was from my same local company. I did notice that the new one seems to be a thicker steel.

But, if you have any advice before I return the wood slicer, it is welcomed!
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post #11 of 25 Old 07-03-2014, 06:50 PM
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Did you try another cut with the same result or just that one?
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post #12 of 25 Old 07-03-2014, 07:10 PM
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Was the one guid bearing that you adjusted on the bottom?
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post #13 of 25 Old 07-03-2014, 08:04 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Bradpotts123 View Post
Was the one guid bearing that you adjusted on the bottom?
I tried several cuts, and they all ended up the exact same. The adjustment did come from the bottom bearing. The new blade was thicker so I had to move it to where it would fit in.
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post #14 of 25 Old 07-03-2014, 09:15 PM
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The thicker blade is probably the thing here. A 14 inch wheel doesn't do well with that. The blades I get from Timberwolf come in two thicknesses, I get the thinner one as the thicker blades tend to crack and break on me and need a lot more tension.
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post #15 of 25 Old 07-04-2014, 01:34 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bradpotts123 View Post
Maybe I am missing something but I am having a hard time understanding how this could be the blade that caused a run in a board that far.
Before I begin, I want to state that none of what I say applies to this particular case. A blade can acre up a cut by having mis-set teeth causing the cut to bias drifting one way or another, could have a distempered area in the blade causing one part to flex different, could be slightly mis-sized to work effectively with the saws blade guides, could've shipped dull (stranger things have happened). Bad blades screw crap up, I'm speaking from a very recent scroll saw misadventure...
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post #16 of 25 Old 07-04-2014, 10:24 AM
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Maybe I am wrong. Maybe it is the blade as others have stated. I would say that if you had to adjust one guid when switching back that that guid never needed adjusting and you moved it out of square. Maybe there was not enough tension on the blade. All blades are different. But it could be the blade I guess?
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post #17 of 25 Old 07-07-2014, 07:58 PM
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Blades can be tricky..... On a much larger scale, our sawmill is the same way. Too thin of a blade, too narrow blade or not enough set can really cause some squirrely cuts. Also, if any of the teeth are dull or damaged, that can cause some bad runout too.
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post #18 of 25 Old 07-09-2014, 08:16 AM
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we do a lot of reswaing. trust me the blade can do that, and sometimes a brand new one. they can be fine with shallow cuts, but resawing brings out the worst in the drift and tracking of a blade.
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post #19 of 25 Old 07-09-2014, 03:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eldaneo View Post
Thanks Del! I was hoping for a more efficient blade. The saw marks aren't a mega issue, but I was just thinking if I never needed to saw veneers. But, you are right, I'll most likely wind up returning the wood slicer and checking other options.
i know the thread is getting old, and maybe you got it fixed, first what i would do is tension the blade , now loosen up all the guides , this will let the blade center , now move one guide we will say on the botton and than move the other this way it is centered, now go to the top and do the same thing, now the blade should be centered in the guides, if you are using rollor's watch and don't let the blade come back to far this will run the blade, i don't like rollor's , i use the fenolic type which is like breake linning's on a car only 3/4" square, you don't have to worry about the blade getting back to far, when their is a grove i take it out and ground it away and put back in and they are fine again, the only beiring's i have are the thrust one's. good luck
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post #20 of 25 Old 07-11-2014, 03:59 PM
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I had the same trouble once and found out to NOT use carter blade guides. I put my original guides back on and cut straight as an arrow.

Bud

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